Zealand and the Bonds with Alex, Feb. 3-4, 2012

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TrishandAlex

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White Mountains, NH
Copied from http://www.trishalexsage.com/2012/02/tuesday-trip-report-zealand-and-bonds.html
Photos and one short video can be found there.
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Zealand Road, Zealand Trail, Twinway, Zealand Spur, Bondcliff Trail, West Bond Spur, Wilderness Trail, Lincoln, Trail

23.2 mile traverse, with a hut stay at Zealand Falls Hut.

First, a huge thank you to Tim and Val C., who graciously agreed to watch Sage last Friday. Alex and I wanted to leave in the middle of the day so we could complete the 6.4 mile hike to Zealand Falls Hut before sunset, but Hugh was not able to leave work until Friday evening. Tim and Val took care of Sage until Hugh arrived; my youngest had a blast and we are much obliged. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Alex and I began the hike to the hut at about 1:30 on Friday afternoon. Please excuse the spotty quality of some of these pictures. I am still learning how to take photographs in winter; my camera does not appreciate the damp and the cold, and the lens rebels from time to time. Some of my photos turned out quite well, and others...not so much.

We reached the Zealand Trail after about two hours of walking. After taking a very short break, we entered the woods and sped-walked the 2.8 miles of well-packed trail.

We reached the hut at 4:30, three hours after we'd left our car.

Here's Alex, in front of the hut...

...and here's the hut itself.

Alex and I had never stayed at an AMC hut in the winter before. We arrived warm and toasty from hiking, but then quickly become chilled from lack of movement (the huts are not heated). We changed into dry (unsweaty) clothing, layered up, and stayed close to the lit wood stove. I made some mashed potatoes for Alex; she felt much better after eating hot food.

Once warm from food and fire, we relaxed and enjoyed the company of those around us. Turns out we were one degree of separation from most of the other guests. There are quite a few different hiking groups, associations, and clubs (official and nonofficial) in the northeast, and it seems like we met representations from at least half of them. It was a very social evening.

Alex and I slept 11 hours that night. It was tough getting up in the morning and leaving the warm and comfy confines of our winter sleeping bag. Once out in the cold air, we packed quickly. DaveBear and MadRiver arrived at the hut just as we were ready to roll.

Here's where things got a little off kilter. DaveBear, Thor and MadRiver had planned to catch up with us at the hut or, if we'd already left, somewhere on the Twinway. We'd then hike the rest of the traverse together. However, MadRiver needed to change layers when he got to the hut, but Alex and I were becoming chilled and therefore we needed to start moving. DaveBear, Thor, Alex and I started up the Twinway toward Zeacliff after making sure MadRiver didn't mind. We figured we wouldn't get too far ahead and that he'd soon catch up.

We hiked with DaveBear and Thor for a while, but there came a time when Alex and I needed to go ahead a bit in order to stay warm. We assumed we would not get too far ahead, but, unfortunately, it became difficult for us to slow down. When we tried, the cold became a problem. We could not stop to wait unless I dragged out my sleeping bag, which I most definitely did not want to do.

We've known DaveBear and MadRiver for years now. Both are trusted friends. Therefore, we knew that both would both understand if we kept moving. Also, since I knew many people would soon be on the trail behind them, I was not worried for their safety. We figured we'd eventually use the hiker grapevine to connect with them.

Alex and I broke trail through 2-5 inches of fluffy powder almost all the way to Zeacliff before being passed by a fast young man who informed us that our friends were probably about ten minutes away. We decided we'd try to wait for them at Zeacliff.

Zeacliff was socked in and blustery. Unfortunately, we could feel the wind no matter where we tried to wait. Remaining still was not an option. We moved on toward Zealand.

Once at Zealand (winter 4K #35), we found a place a few feet from the intersection that felt sheltered enough for us to stop for a while. We had a small piece of chocolate and waited for about five minutes before the chill began to set in. Just as we started to head toward Guyot, three hikers appeared from behind us. They told us that DaveBear and MadRiver were close. Relieved, Alex and I started slowly moving toward Guyot (we could no longer remain still).

Just before reaching treeline, a large VFTT group caught up with us. They passed on the message that DaveBear wasn't feeling the hike today and had decided to turn around. MadRiver was going to go with him. They both said they'd meet us on the other side of the traverse later that evening. I found out later that we'd missed each other at Zealand by five minutes (arg!).

Heading over to Guyot was...interesting. Alex and I headed above treeline without gearing up, since we didn't hear or feel any wind until we were in the midst of it. Once we felt it (strong and cold!), we beat feet into some nearby scrub and donned all the appropriate clothing.

When we stepped back out, the VFTT group had emerged and were walking single file through the Whiteness. I have mixed feelings about what happened next.

I've navigated my way into and out of a near white-out on three occasions -- once on my own and twice with Alex. What we faced heading toward Guyot was far from a white-out; visibility was not the greatest, but one could keep visual tags on the green mound of trees that one needs to enter in order to approach Guyot's summit. The question was, where was the entrance to the path that led through those trees?

I walked with Alex (and a few individuals from the group) downhill too far and missed the appropriate turn; I'd mistaken snow-covered scrub for cairns. Had I been alone (with Alex), I would have taken out my compass, reversed our direction by 180 degrees, walked back to where we'd started, gone back into the scrub, and reassessed the situation. This is the kind of thing I'd like Alex to learn how to do. The wind was blowing, but it was nothing we haven't experienced multiple times before, and we were both warm thanks to our various layers and headwear. It wasn't exactly ideal weather, but we were comfortable enough and not in danger of frostbite. Part of me wishes I had taken the time to go through that exercise with her in those particular moments.

I wasn't alone, however, and my self-sufficiency quickly converted into a desire to follow-the-leader. Someone from the VFTT group pointed toward a specific spot in the trees, walked confidently toward it, and waved for everyone else to follow. Turns out he had a GPS system showing exactly where we needed to go. This was convenient, and I'm grateful for the relative ease in which we crossed, and I'm glad they didn't mind me and Alex falling into their group for a while. However, it bothers me that I so willingly followed without spending much time trying to figure it out for myself. At the very least, I should have pulled out the compass and marked where I was in the event the group had gotten it wrong and we needed to backtrack. I'm familiar with some of the people in this group, and I know they're experienced hikers. I do not doubt their ability or judgment. I knew, in the moment, that they'd probably gotten it exactly right. It's simply the principle of the thing.

Alex and I went ahead of the group, back out of the trees, to the summit of Guyot.

The group caught up with us again as we headed to the West Bond Spur. We let them pass, then tagged behind them up to West Bond. Alex started getting grumpy, and I realized that besides the small piece of chocolate she had at Zealand, neither one of us had eaten anything since breakfast. I then decided that, in spite of a slight desire to continue tagging along with the group over to Bondcliff (I was a bit worried about a lack of visibility on the ridge), we'd stop and eat something substantial before heading up to Bond.

We reached West Bond (winter 4K #36) and -- behold, the arrival of the sun and the clearing of the sky! We saw John of "J&J" (good to see you!), and a lady in the VFTT group offered to take our picture (many thanks!). Here we are on the summit...I'm doing a great impression of a pumpkin (the wind was having fun with my layers).

We headed down West Bond with the group, then lingered behind as they left. We couldn't come to a complete stop, since lack of movement made us cold, but we could slow our pace and indulge in some cheese and crackers. Once fed and watered, it didn't take long for Alex to perk up considerably.

Up, into the official Alpine Zone...

...and onto the summit of Bond (winter 4K #37)!

The wind had died down since our crossing to Guyot, and the skies were clear. This eased my mind greatly. Finding your way from the Twinway to Guyot in less than ideal conditions is one thing...getting from Bond to Bondcliff in subzero windchills and low visibility is quite another. Had we arrived at Bond and found ourselves in an inhospitable environment, we would have either retreated back to Zealand Hut or spent the night at Guyot Shelter. Thankfully, we didn't have to pursue either of those options. However, just to be safe, I told Alex to wear all her layers and headgear (facemask, goggles, etc). I couldn't see any snow blowing over the ridge and it certainly looked relatively calm out there, but I didn't want to assume too much.

Once down Bond and into the col, it was apparent we needn't fret. There was a wind, but it was light. I took off my facemask, and Alex sat for a while and enjoyed the views.

TO BE CONTINUED...
 
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Zealand/Bonds, Part Two

PART TWO
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We took our time walking across the ridge. It was wonderful. The views were outstanding, we both felt good, and Alex was in her element. This was the best part of our entire trip. Gorgeous, simply gorgeous.

We reached the top of Bondcliff (winter 4K #38) and lounged about.

Eventually, and with much regret, we decided to head down.

I'd never descended the south side of Bondcliff before. What a treat! Alex loved the moderate downhill grades. She used her sled frequently and with gleeful abandon.

We reached the Wilderness Trail at sunset.

Though we had our headlamps at the ready, we rarely used them for the last 4.6 miles of our journey. The moon was a beautiful and brilliant waxing gibbous; there was little need for artificial light.

The flat miles went by quickly. We were at the suspension bridge at 7:30pm, which gave us a total traverse time of 15 hours (Friday's hike to the hut included). Sage and Hugh were waiting in the parking lot, along with DaveBear and MadRiver. Alex and Sage happily danced with each other while I profusely thanked our friends for coming all the way out to Lincoln Woods. We talked about that morning; all three of us were okay with what had happened. John and June ("J&J") were in the lot and came over to say hello. It was good to see them both again.

Alex was more than ready for this hike. I never had any doubt that she could handle it. During the past couple of months, she's routinely taken on 12-18 mile treks and accomplished them all within adult book time, with plenty of energy left over. After we got home, I asked her if she thought this hike had been especially tough. She answered that though it wasn't easy, she didn't feel it was any more difficult than doing Owl's Head in a day.

A huge note of thanks to Hugh and Sage. Those two have prepared massive dinners for me and Alex on every winter hiking night thus far. The girls support each other, and Hugh supports me and the girls. We could not do what we do without each other's help; the four of us continue to grow as a team, and for that I am profoundly grateful
 
Glad you and Alex had such a nice adventure Trish! So sorry I was not up to it that day especially considering how beautiful it was out there last weekend! I had pretty much set myself up by only getting 3 hours sleep and then driving 3 more before the 4am start with Rick. Throw that on top of a long busy work week and you can start to doubt your ability to hike hard and not create an unfair burden on those you are with. It was not a risk I was willing to take and I am so glad the hike went well for you and Alex! Really love the joy she shows in your pictures and out on the trail! It was fun to watch her sauntering along and petting Thor's back as they took the lead! The mountains are a wonderful and beautiful place to free your heart from the stresses of work and responsibilities but even more precious when you can see it unfold in front of you through the eyes of a child! We are privileged to have such a place like the Bonds to play in as though its a Narnia without witches or perils! Unfortunately for me I fear the latter and felt on that day it was best to limit my playtime and watch enviously as you two went on!;)
 
Dave, I'm glad you and MadRiver did what you needed to do for yourselves. We were so happy to see you both at Lincoln Woods later that evening! Was good to connect at the end of the day.

I appreciate all your comments and the messages we've exchanged. You're a true friend and a gentleman. :)
 
Certainly having your sleeping bag (and stove, pots, etc?) with you made for a safer traverse as you had the option to stop anywhere. Do you think this was more or less effort than doing the traverse in a day with less stuff?
 
Great trip report! You and Alex are such an inspiration!

Thanks! Hope to see you and yours this spring or summer. :)

Certainly having your sleeping bag (and stove, pots, etc?) with you made for a safer traverse as you had the option to stop anywhere. Do you think this was more or less effort than doing the traverse in a day with less stuff?

I don't carry pots, lol. I carry what I feel is the bare minimum to keep my kid(s) and I safe should we need to spend the night out in subzero temperatures. Would a traverse with less stuff be easier (assuming there were no accidents or mishaps)? Of course. Would I feel comfortable hiking with less stuff? No. Are others comfortable hiking with less stuff? Obviously.

What others carry/don't carry is their business. I'm of the opinion that folks should hike their own hike, as long as they understand what they're getting themselves into.

Good meeting up with you! That's one tough kid you've got there! :)

Thanks, Paradox. It was nice to see you too.
 
Trish, It was good to bump into you and Alex out there. We've crossed paths before and after hkes a few times, and once during (non-winter, though).

I enjoyed reading your report. Actually the combination of all three accounts of Zealand/Bonds that day, taken together give an idea that even on the same hike on the same day, people have wildly different experiences. I love that. We all have different past experience we bring to the hike, and, of course, the people we are hiking with influence our experience as well.

The part about crossing Guyot intrigued me. I believe you and I and Alex were in the front, and had headed down towards the junction sign with Twinway when we paused to figure out exactly where to go next. Of course, we knew "south", but the snow and rime covered trees and cairns all looked basically the same. There was little evidence underfoot of where folks before us had gone due to the hard surface conditions of the snow. John, with his gps charged ahead and went to the exact point where the trail enters the trees and gestured to us where we needed to go. I thought I saw a line of cairns just to the west of where John was and gestured to him that I thought he was too far east. Of course, he knew where he was, since he could see the trail corridor right in front of him! We gestured to each other (since the wind was drowning out the sound of our voices), and finally he gave the universal gesture one gives when they KNOW they are right and the other person is wrong!:eek::D. This felt like five minutes, but I bet it took less than one. I figured we could go see what John saw, and then regroup and make a new plan if that wasn't the trail. It was the trail, of course, and we all trudged merrily along.

Being with Alex, it sounds like since you and she were both warm and comfortable in the conditions, you feel like you missed a teachable moment, but there will be plenty of others, and I'm sure there were plenty of others on this trip!

It was good to see you both again! When we saw Dave Bear (and Thor!) at the LW lot, I told him I thought you guys were at most an hour behind us. It sounds like that was exactly right. Great job out there to you both.

Happy Hiking.
 
The part about crossing Guyot intrigued me. I believe you and I and Alex were in the front, and had headed down towards the junction sign with Twinway when we paused to figure out exactly where to go next. Of course, we knew "south", but the snow and rime covered trees and cairns all looked basically the same. There was little evidence underfoot of where folks before us had gone due to the hard surface conditions of the snow. John, with his gps charged ahead and went to the exact point where the trail enters the trees and gestured to us where we needed to go. I thought I saw a line of cairns just to the west of where John was and gestured to him that I thought he was too far east. Of course, he knew where he was, since he could see the trail corridor right in front of him! We gestured to each other (since the wind was drowning out the sound of our voices), and finally he gave the universal gesture one gives when they KNOW they are right and the other person is wrong!:eek::D. This felt like five minutes, but I bet it took less than one. I figured we could go see what John saw, and then regroup and make a new plan if that wasn't the trail. It was the trail, of course, and we all trudged merrily along....

...It was good to see you both again! When we saw Dave Bear (and Thor!) at the LW lot, I told him I thought you guys were at most an hour behind us. It sounds like that was exactly right. Great job out there to you both.

Happy Hiking.

Jason, I agree with your account, except I believe I overshot the turn. Also, I had hoped to cut across the snowfield instead of going down toward the intersection. I didn't look at the compass before stepping out, that was my mistake. The teachable moment would have been taking the steps to correct that mistake -- but there was no need, since you folks had it figured out. I was grateful to fall into your group in that moment, it certainly made life easier, I was just annoyed with myself for not thinking about everything a little more carefully and not showing Alex what to do in such a situation.

I assume that to spend the night at the hut you needed more stuff including cooking gear than you take on a day hike. My question was whether it was less effort to carry all that stuff over the Bonds than to do it as a day trip.

Roy, what I carried on that traverse was the exact same thing I carry on every single winter dayhike. I didn't need to pack anything extra for the hut stay, since I always carry a winter bag (Alex and I can fit in one, I don't carry two), Jetboil, etc. The difference with this trip was that I actually used everything in my pack (at the hut), instead of just hauling it around for safety reasons.

Since I'm used to carrying all that stuff anyway, for me, it made complete sense to stay at the hut in order to break up the mileage. It wasn't a question of carrying less and doing more miles at once, since I'd carry the exact same stuff regardless of intended daytrip or intended hut stay.
 
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