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Thread: Freedom of the New England Hills

  1. #91
    Senior Member sierra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DayTrip View Post
    Is climbing like that possible solo? Did you ever do that? I guess my biggest hurdle to doing it is whether or not it can be done without leaving thousands of $$$ in climbing stuff screwed to the walls behind me. Could become a costly hobby (and a hidden bonanza for anyone climbing behind me )
    I took a class with a guide to learn how to rope solo, but I decided after a few climbs it wasn't for me. All my technical climbing was done with partners. I rarely left gear behind, but I have in dire situations like the climb I described on Poko-Moonshine. On that day, I was glad to leave it to get the heck off the wall. I was lucky in that I always found gear. I did a route on Cannon once that someone had rappelled in what I can only guess was a bad day. I found 4 fixed rappel anchors as I climbed, probably over 200 bucks worth of gear. I also carried old chocks and hexes that were marked for leaving behind when needed. A lot of the times, you can get away with just leaving webbing and a few biners. The only routes I solo are snow climbs and class 3 and 4 routes out west. There is fall potential, but the routes were well within my skillset.

  2. #92
    Senior Member DayTrip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierra View Post
    I took a class with a guide to learn how to rope solo, but I decided after a few climbs it wasn't for me. All my technical climbing was done with partners. I rarely left gear behind, but I have in dire situations like the climb I described on Poko-Moonshine. On that day, I was glad to leave it to get the heck off the wall. I was lucky in that I always found gear. I did a route on Cannon once that someone had rappelled in what I can only guess was a bad day. I found 4 fixed rappel anchors as I climbed, probably over 200 bucks worth of gear. I also carried old chocks and hexes that were marked for leaving behind when needed. A lot of the times, you can get away with just leaving webbing and a few biners. The only routes I solo are snow climbs and class 3 and 4 routes out west. There is fall potential, but the routes were well within my skillset.
    I would definitely need classes. I've read of solo attempts on stuff so I figured there must be a method for doing without leaving tons of gear but it never got into specifics like that. I doubt I'd do huge routes like up Cannon but I'd like to some day be able to bushwhack around and have the ability to attack some smaller formations to climb a trail-less knob a remote slide or whatever. I plan to bushwhack a lot this year when Winter ends so I guess I'll reevaluate after I've seen the types of issues I run into and whether it is worth pursuing.
    NH 48 4k: 48/48; NH W48k: 44/48; NY 46: 3/46

  3. #93
    Senior Member hikerbrian's Avatar
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    I figured out this past summer that technical climbing isn't fun for me anymore. Not right now, anyway. It's not something I can do casually and still feel safe, and I don't have the time/desire to really commit. And I'm ok with that.

    I will say, however, that nothing has made me a better, safer SCRAMBLER than technical climbing. Before I started climbing, I had no idea how to judge how difficult and dangerous anything beyond hiking was. Now I understand quite clearly the difference between class 2 (fun!), 3 (fun or scary, depending on how heavy my pack is), 4 (terrifying), and 5 (I'm taking a rope), and what I'm comfortable and safe doing. There is a lot of value in that. For me, gaining competence in the technical stuff is what made me competent with the non-technical stuff. It's probably analagous to the way hiking and backpacking in the winter makes you a better 3-season hiker. After you've been out in some dicey winter situations, nothing in the summer is scary. Ok, except lightning. That's still scary.
    Sure. Why not.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by DayTrip View Post
    As much as I'd like to try technical climbing with ropes, hardware and all that stuff I think maybe the risk/reward ratio is beyond what I would attempt now. Too conservative I guess. Certainly not taking it off the table yet though.
    It could be fun: http://exumguides.com/ublminxportfolios/grand-classic/
    Last edited by jfb; 02-04-2017 at 04:08 PM.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougPaul View Post

    climbers definitions:
    * solo = climbing alone
    * free solo = climbing alone without protection (ie no ropes, carabiners, nuts, pitons, etc)
    * anchors (protection) = attachments to the rock (eg nuts and pitons) which anchor the rope going to the climbers
    * fixed anchors/protection = protection left in place for other climbers
    * leader = the one who goes first, placing protection as needed
    * second = the one who goes second, generally cleaning (removing) the protection as he goes
    * clean climbing = climbing leaving no (minimal) gear or trace behind

    Doug
    Perhaps irrelevant to this discussion, but I'll add the following two definitions because they didn't exist back when I (briefly) climbed, and it took me a long time to figure out what was meant:

    *trad = "traditional" climbing...no protection at the beginning, you place all your own as you go
    *sport = sport climbing...protection permanently attached to the rock (by drilling/epoxying, etc.) that the climber clips into (certainly the antithesis of "leave no trace". )
    Crags are usually one or the other.
    Steve H.
    NH4000 1976-1984
    NE4000 1984-1991

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