Madison Gulf Trail 7/20

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peakbagger

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I haven't been up Madison Gulf trail for 15 years (plus or minus). A friend wanted to revisit it so we made arrangements for Sunday. While waiting for him Sunday AM in the Great Gulf parking lot, I got a visit from USFS enforcement agent checking for car break ins. I expect he was checking me out but did let me know that there had been recent break ins so leave no valuables. I am not sure if it was generic warning or specific to the lot.

The walk up great gulf trail to the junction was uneventful except for the unmarked crossing of Parapet brook. I always tend to forget it and the trace of path in the general direction of Madison Gulf prior to the crossing adds a bit of confusion. After the crossing we cam upon the trail junction and heading up Madison Gulf. Madison Gulf is definitely a lesser used trail and the minimal blazing and maintenance standards for wilderness areas are quite apparent. At this point I will insert an editorial warning- Both me and my hiking partner have long term experience following old trails and bushwhacking, Madison Gulf Trail definitely meets the definition of minimally maintained, we were comfortable hiking it but in places we had to pull out our maps. To a new recreational hiker used to a wide footbed, extensive blazing and arrows and signage at confusing points this is probably not the trail for them as there are numerous spots to get lost. Much of the trail tends to follow or is in a brook and the heavy cover means that the rocks dont dry out thus making the potential for slips and fall far higher.

At the first crossing of Parapet brook, was our first challenge, the trail crosses at a diagonal and the exit on the east side was not apparent due to an old blow down. Luckily many of the upper crossings has some rudimentary stone cairns, but the lack of blazes and generally grown in condition of the trail made for few more head scratching moments. Eventually we made it to the headwall and after a few rock scrambles that seemed to be easier than the first time around years ago, we starting hiking up the stream bed that serves double purposes for the trail. At the one point where the trail diverges from the stream bed, there were two faded out blazes that helped us in the right direction. From then on it was quick hike up to the top of the headwall and over to Madison hut.

At Madison Hut we had a few snacks. Sadly Madison Hut has also adopted the price inflation on snacks of $2 per snack. The pricing at the huts this year have been variable. the same snack at one hut may be $1 while it is $2 at others. I guess with a captive market each hut crew must have a different profit goal;)

After a rest we headed up Madison and then down Osgood. As usual Osgood despite the great views got a bit tedious walking on the razor sharp talus. The northern Presis tend to have sharp rocks but Osgood's always seem to be extra abrasive, plus the rocks tend to be bit more loose. I pity any dog that has to traverse this section without booties and curse the owner that would do so to their pet.

After the long above tree line stretch and great views back towards the Great Gulf and summits we dropped into the trees and admired the "stealth" campsite immediately adjacent to the Alpine Zone sign, I seem to remember this spot as much smaller. About 15 minutes down the trail we met a AT southbounder looking for a stealth site, we let him know about the spot and it made his day. We talked a bit and discussed camping options along the ridgeline for a few minutes and then we were off. The rest of the trip down was uneventful until we passed the Osgood tentsites. My hiking partner at one point mentioned there was a moose ahead in the trail. He also noticed a calf adjacent to the trail. Generally with past encounters, the moose tend to walk off in the woods as hikers approach but the cow stayed her ground. The body posture didn't seem stressed and while watching them they resumed eating right in the middle of the trail. My partner had a bad encounter in the past with a cow and calf charging him so we headed back up the Osgood and took the Osgood cut off over to Great Gulf trail and then headed out to the car.

Over all a great day to a remote place. As usual we saw no one on Madison Gulf trail.
 
Madison Gulf can be an awesome (challenging) hike. I hiked it last summer with an inexperienced but fit buddy of mine. Unbeknownst to us, the flash flood warnings were issued about 1 hour after we left Pinkham Notch. By the time we reached the junction with Madison Gulf Trail, Parapet Brook was starting to rise. It made for some interesting stream crossings, but we managed to gain altitude quickly enough to keep out of trouble. When we topped out, some hazy sunlight was filtering through the clouds, so the jaunt over to the hut was actually quite nice. I totally agree with your "minimally maintained" description. I'd been there previously, in similar conditions, but my buddy was certainly wondering what I'd got us into. We had proper foul-weather gear, etc., so that was not an issue.
 
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