Three Specific Questions On Ice Axe

DayTrip said:

One thing that still does not seem right to me is the way people fall in these videos. I would think when you are traversing a slope and have the axe in uphill hand and slip you would slide down the slope away from the axe so it is extended out away from you. In the videos they always seem to conveniently fall down on the axe. I've fallen in snowshoes and downhill skis in this manner and was never fortunate enough to land the way they seem to in video. I'll be curious to practice and see for myself.

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jfb said:

To reinforce this point, I'll add that before venturing onto a slope that requires using an ice axe,
the climber should evaluate the consequences of falling at that location if a self arrest is not successful.
In some cases, use of a rope and belaying is appropriate.

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DayTrip said:

In the videos they always seem to conveniently fall down on the axe.
I've fallen in snowshoes and downhill skis in this manner and was never fortunate enough to land the way they seem to in video..

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Chip said:

I like jfb's response a lot.
99.9%: You should NOT FALL to begin with. This is more complicated than it seems as it has to do with preparation:
Some is mechanical, but most is physical for the winter. If you're tired, you're at risk.
If you fall in an area that could kill you, an ax might help, but a rope or not making that crossing definitely will.

I'd be happy to go to an area in the NW Whites to practice self arrest with anyone who wants to.
I'm not there all the time, but if you PM me here, we could arrange something. Practicing is fun and valuable.

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nartreb said:

It ain't rocket science. Stick the long pointy end deep in the snow, and you've got a hand-hold. If you start to slide, put the curvy pointy part into the snow and HANG ON TIGHT. The best way to do that is illustrated in various places mentioned above. It's crucial to arrest IMMEDIATELY, so go to your local sledding hill and practice... a lot. Backwards, upside down, with a big backpack on, with a running start, etc. You'll quickly discover what works and what doesn't.

There are some little tricks regarding leash management - don't make the leash too long (your hand should stay on the shaft if you slide it down), make sure you've got an easy-to-grab-with-mittens-on mechanism for releasing the leash so you can change hands,...

You can easily make your own leash with a bit of cord.

One last tip is to tightly wrap the head of the axe with a thin cord (while leaving the point and adze free). This will give you better grip and will also make an amazing difference in keeping you warm by insulating your hand from the cold metal.

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