Technical ice axe on Lion's Head...

Does anyone use/carry a climbing axe for ascending Lion's Head in addition to an alpine axe? Im planning on doing it this Winter and was wondering if it's a good idea for the short steep section just below treeline (or any other part) or not worth carrying the extra weight. Thanks!

I will confess I have not done that route lately, but when I did the route one 70cm axe was fine. I do remember many roots and tree's to grab onto as well. Another note this route is a great example of needing full on crampons with front points, NOT microspikes. I have even heard that there is sometimes a fixed rope, which really surprised me, but that is not something I can confirm. I think its a great route have fun. Oh one more thing, when descending don't be afraid to face into the route, its much more effective down climbing the technical sections.

I've done it a few times, sometimes with no axe at all, sometimes with a general axe, and once with one technical tool (simply because I was ice climbing on that trip and didn't want to carry two kinds of axe to my campsite).

I've heard of people using a rope on the steep step near the bottom of the route, but it's totally unnecessary. There are tons of handholds. I do recommend you put on crampons before climbing that step, as the step is difficult to climb in snowshoes and the next section is shaded and tends to be very icy.

The route is the kind where if you've got an axe and want to practice using it, you'll be happy to bring it. (Please refrain from hooking roots or branches - it damages them.) It's not entirely necessary in most conditions, but nice to have along in case of unusually slippery conditions. Carrying two axes is extreme overkill.

I haven't done it recently, but a single 70cm mountaineering axe was a good choice for my ascents (and descents).

Doug

A general mountaineering axe will help you in the broadest range of conditions on this route. On very rare occasions the crux is bare and icy enough to be characterized as an entry-level ice climb -- but most usually it's a steep snow pitch with underlying rock, roots and ice. There are indeed lots of handholds via adjacent vegetation, but sometimes not at the spots you'd like. Yes, more than one axe is overkill. Full crampons essential, hard boots recommended. Occasionally a guided group will place a fixed line, which they remove on exit.

Alex

There is an alternative solution. Grivel, and I'm sure others, offer a 'third tool' a short, light banana pick axe as a backup. I'd send you mine (I'm past it), but I donated most of my technical gear to the Montreal Section of the Alpine Club of Canada. It's probably just lying round as the people didn't really know what it was.