I heard an interview this evening from the two climbers (one could barely speak from laryngitis) and wondered about the logistics of a 19 day free climb ascent. I was unaware of the pre-fixed gear. I know this is different from the "off-width" climbing scene, but maybe some purists of free climbing would take exception to that additional benefit.
Harding and D. Caldwell spent 27 nights on the Wall of Early Morning Light. IIRC, they used fixed ropes with multiple trips up to a certain height and then cast the ropes off to finish in a single push (alpine style).
Tasker and Boardman spent 25 days on Changabang, alone, and far from any help. IIRC, they did make multiple trips up and down the wall.
In general, all of the bullet items listed in my previous post make the climb easier. The absolute best style is unprotected (ie no ropes or protection devices) solo (alone) on-sight (ie never having seen the climb before) first-ascent (going where no one has gone before and thus not knowing anything about the route including whether the route is even climbable). Most people won't live very long if they do this a lot, so on-sight with a partner and protection ropes and gear, first-ascent preferred, is generally considered good style. Leaving the rock unchanged so that the next party can experience the same climb is also desirable.
Note that back in the days before good ropes and effective protection techniques, the leader essentially climbed unprotected. (The rule of thumb was "the leader must not fall and nobody else better either"...)
Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker did an impressive climb of Super Crack only to have others dismiss their accomplishment by pointing out that they had pre-rigged the crack ahead of time. To their credit Tom and Pete returned from the UK and did the entire climb over again.
The second ascent was in better style, but, of course, they had the knowledge and practice from their first ascent of the route.
I just thought it was an interesting parallel. I am not a climber myself, so does anyone have a better sense if pre-fixed is considered "cheating"? I honestly don't know.
Rock climbing in a place like Yosemite is a game. It isn't about getting to the top of most high points because they have easier routes. (For instance, there is a hiking trail from the valley floor to the top of El Capitan.) It is about getting up via a particular route in a particular style. There are a number of styles and their definition (ie ethics) and desirability change over time as skills, gear, and techniques improve. Different styles are also appropriate in different places. These days, as long as you are truthful about what you did and don't damage the rock*, you are usually ok. Of course, if two parties climb the same route and one uses better style than the other, it will be considered a better achievement. Some disagreements over style have gotten pretty nasty...
* Anything that makes a permanent change to the rock alters the climb for later ascensionists and is thus undesirable in heavily used areas like Yosemite. In particular, things like bolts make it easier for later parties. Freeing (ie. climbing without aid+) climbs that previously had only been ascended using aid is a goal of some--but in some cases the freeing party has used the piton scars from previous parties. Thus the piton scars have made climb easier and thus not the same climb experienced by the first-ascent party.
+ Aid is using equipment to support one's weight. Free climbing uses gear only for protection in case of a fall.
BTW, off-width is a particular range of crack widths. Off-widths tend to be difficult to climb.
Doug
