Whats your go to winter hiking setup?
- Thread starter GrayBear
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jfb
Active member
You should try Ibex bike shorts sometime. I have two in size large. I'll mail a pair to you and you can send them back when you're done.
http://www.amazon.com/Ibex-Cycling-Short-SM-Black/product-reviews/B001NPDXYG
http://www.rei.com/product/846235/ibex-duo-bike-shorts-mens#tab-reviews
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Adjusting one's activity level is harder than you might think. In practice, it is only adjustable under limited circumstances - when one is solo, or when one doesn't have a time constraint around a longer effort, etc. Assuming that one is not solo (seems like a fair assumption since this thread mostly applies to the less-experienced or inexperienced winter hiker), or assuming a long goal and time limit (often the case with me personally) then activity level is probably not that easily adjusted, so that leaves layering. There are days where in order for me to keep the speed of my companions, I will be in short sleeves and still sweating (ring-out-my-bandana sweating.)
If I reduce my effort, then my companion may have to reduce theirs, which backfires on my adjusted effort and layering, which then messes theirs up, etc. The one thing that two or more people can kind of agree on is pace. Even if the agreement is to that of the slowest hiker, it may not be slow enough to stay completely dry. Now bring a dog or two along, and they want to keep moving to stay warm, and it gets even more complicated. More people, larger groups, organized groups, AMC-like groups that have a leader and a sweeper and everyone stops and starts together, etc., and the variables multiply even more.
In practice, I always plan to switch shirts to a dry one once the majority of the elevation is behind me. Likewise to a dry hat and gloves, if those have gotten damp. Using a vapor barrier for gloves (or liners or mittens) saves me from going through as many pairs of gloves (or liners or mittens) as I would without.
Tim
Raven
Well-known member
On a late fall day a couple years ago, we were headed up Madison I believe. I had a long sleeve base layer and 300 weight fleece jacket and was comfortable and dry. You seemed comfortable, but by no means dry, in a short sleeve with arm warmers. You were soaking both. I run a little cold.
I tend to agree and don't think NASA has yet developed the fabric that will wick fast enough for you.
It will be called "TimWick"
DougPaul
Well-known member
I didn't say it was easy (or hard), just that altering your heat production and/or insulation are your only options for controlling sweating.
While I tend to run hotter than many others, you seem to be fairly extreme. Changing out of wet clothing may be a good strategy for day trips but it is impractical for longer multi-day trips.
Doug
DougPaul
Well-known member
A fishnet baselayer might work fairly well for extreme sweaters. (Fishnet was readily available in the mid-1970s but has since gone out of fashion and is now much harder to find.)
I also find that I can dump a good amount of heat from my legs and do reduce my leg insulation to help dump heat on warmer days.
Doug
jfb
Active member
Did I win the beer?
Mike P.
Well-known member
I'm in on the beer bet too as I'm usually sweating when I can still see the car. Pit-zips are replaced by a vest and when I'm wearing a shell, I've decided its better to get wet on the inside than from the outside
It's been that way for decades but I do get to keep the heat down in the house too.....
jfb
Active member
Make it a quart of Maple Walnut from Salem Valley Farms and you've got a deal!
(It sounds like you sweat plenty to stay cool. The trick is making the sweat evaporate on your skin and then removing the water vapor.)
From a previous link:
"The fibers also move moisture faster than any other material on the planet. This means you stay drier longer and can say goodbye forever to the clamminess that comes from other materials. Unlike synthetics, which have to wait for moisture to condense before wicking it away from your skin, Smartwool's fibers are porous, allowing them to absorb vapor and transfer it before it condenses. This saves a step by letting them wick and evaporate moisture at the same time, transporting it in both liquid and vapor stages. When it's hot, this creates a mini air-conditioning unit and vapor stages. When it's cold, this keeps bone-chilling moisture at bay."
For an unbiased opinion, ask the folks at North Cove Outfitters.
Another bit of advice: When something doesn't work as advertised (like wicking fabrics), stop blaming yourself and start blaming the advertisers.
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Gremlin
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'Underwear exchange'. Lol.
sardog1
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This point needs a whole lot more prominence and emphasis. Being out in the open in winter is quite different from being in the trees. Zippers, cords, flaps, laces, etc. all need to be carefully examined for their usefulness and reliability in extremely cold temperatures when you cannot risk baring your fingers for any length of time. Go take a look at parkas designed for Arctic/Antarctic wear if you can and you will see what I mean. Just having the right cuff on a jacket sleeve can make a huge difference, for instance.
