Bushwhacking - General "Guidelines"

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Don't ever count on flagging tape still being there upon your return if I am traveling behind you. Turn points of reference in the terrain that are otherwise difficult to recognize can easily be marked with sticks placed in a pattern that you can recognize later.
 
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If you really need the crutch, please bushwhack with someone who knows what they're doing. Wishing I had a dollar for every piece of flagging I've removed from "bushwhack" routes... :mad:
 
Nessmuk said:
There are several far better choices than a ziplock bag, it will pay in the long run to get something more durable and resistant to dragging through heavy brush, better fitting to maps too. just do a google search for "map case":
https://www.amazon.com/SealLine-SLMAPCASE-Map-Case/dp/B002L140TS
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Outdoor-Products-Unisex-Tactical/dp/B01GQT2W8Q
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A map case that weighs a pound! No wonder my pack weighs 40+ lbs! (I couldn't resist - just kidding). I actually have a good case like that for maps but generally just use a sheet protector to save the weight. Cheap, very light and all the two sided benefits. Yes, not waterproof but I've found even on rainy days with laser printed CalTopo maps I don't usually have an issue. A Ziploc bag would be a good upgrade from my sheet protector. But normally I do enough advance planning and note taking that I rarely if ever take the map out of my pocket other than checking my times against what I projected. When bushwhacking, where I'd no doubt be exposing the map to the elements far more often I'd probably go back to the durable waterproof carrier. Good point.
 
DayTrip said:
A map case that weighs a pound! No wonder my pack weighs 40+ lbs! .
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Where do you get 1 pound from?? Shipping weight( throw away the box and packaging)? Take the lead weights out. I have 2 different sizes, just now weighed, the 15x811size weighs 4.5 oz, the 12x8 weighs 2 3/8 oz. (hint: 12 oz vinyl is the thickness grade of the vinyl, not the weight of the case) I hand out freezer weight ziplock bags to students in my land nav class, they (the ziplock bags) invariably come back from where I send them on their field certification ripped and the maps are wet and torn.

For the Yukon 1000 mile race I used Google Earth maps of my route printed on a laser printer, just plain bond paper that I then treated with waterproofing spray on my garage floor. 95 such maps in protective sheet sleeves carried in a 3-ring binder kept at my feet in a very wet canoe for 6 days of the race. The maps survived so well, I can use them again on the next race.
 
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Dana said:
the electronic compasses in GPS's and smartphones really suck down the battery and then what do you do when it's dead?
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Not necessarily so--depends on the model.

I have actually measured the current draw of the compass on some GPSes:
* 60CS: 50ma
* 60CSx: 0ma (difference not detectable)
* 62s: 0ma (difference not detectable)

The 62s compass rose display consumed 85ma!!! (I presume this is due to a software bug.) (The 60CS and 60CSx showed no increased consumption for the same display.)

For comparison, normal operation of the GPS consumes 70-90ma and the backlight at full intensity an additional 95-140ma for the above models.

The battery lifetime of a hiking of a hiking GPS is typically 15-25 hours (2 AA batteries). However it can be extended to weeks by only turning it on to get a fix occasionally and leaving it off the rest of the time.


I have no corresponding data for smartphones, however power management is critical so the manufacturers try to minimize the power consumption of the magnetic sensor. (The Garmin data suggests that it can be negligible.) The power draw of a cellphone GPS, however, is likely to be significant. (There are low-power GPS chipsets designed for use in cellphones.)


FWIW, I normally use my mechanical compass and get my bearings from a paper map. If I am navigating toward a GPS waypoint, I get a numerical bearing from the GPS and transfer it to my mechanical compass. For me, the GPS compass is primarily a backup. My cellphone generally sits in my pack, turned off.

Doug
 
Nessmuk said:
Where do you get 1 pound from?? Shipping weight( throw away the box and packaging)? Take the lead weights out. I have 2 different sizes, just now weighed, the 15x811size weighs 4.5 oz, the 12x8 weighs 2 3/8 oz. (hint: 12 oz vinyl is the thickness grade of the vinyl, not the weight of the case) I hand out freezer weight ziplock bags to students in my land nav class, they (the ziplock bags) invariably come back from where I send them on their field certification ripped and the maps are wet and torn.

For the Yukon 1000 mile race I used Google Earth maps of my route printed on a laser printer, just plain bond paper that I then treated with waterproofing spray on my garage floor. 95 such maps in protective sheet sleeves carried in a 3-ring binder kept at my feet in a very wet canoe for 6 days of the race. The maps survived so well, I can use them again on the next race.
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Yes I saw 12 oz and thought that was the product weight. References I've seen for plastic films usually are in mils, not ounces, so I thought that was the product weight. A thousand pardons for my error. It was a j-o-k-e (i.e. "just kidding") based on your previous criticisms of all the weight I carry. You seem to be getting genuinely annoyed by my comments so I'll refrain from further comment in this thread. Navigation and pack weight were not what I was asking about.
 
no need to refrain, I (perhaps too often) just try to set the record straight. I've been doing this stuff for a long time, and am happy to assist whenever I can.
 
Nessmuk said:
There are several far better choices than a ziplock bag, it will pay in the long run to get something more durable and resistant to dragging through heavy brush, better fitting to maps too. just do a google search for "map case":
https://www.amazon.com/SealLine-SLMAPCASE-Map-Case/dp/B002L140TS
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Outdoor-Products-Unisex-Tactical/dp/B01GQT2W8Q
Click to expand...

Yikes! I could see how those might be better for a long distance canoe race, but if you're merely hiking a freezer-style ziplock is all you need. They're lightweight, waterproof, durable enough, easy to fold and jam in a pocket—preferably one that can be zipped closed—and they're inexpensive.
 
If you are printing your own maps I find that the water proof paper works really well. You can print on both sides. I have purchased it online and at EMS. Not only is it water proof it takes some effort to tear it as well. Awesome for starting a fire in wet conditions with an obvious drawback.
 
TEO said:
Yikes! I could see how those might be better for a long distance canoe race, but if you're merely hiking a freezer-style ziplock is all you need. They're lightweight, waterproof, durable enough, easy to fold and jam in a pocket—preferably one that can be zipped closed—and they're inexpensive.[/QUOTEMerely hiking, ok, ziplock (which I never use personally), but were talking bushwhack here, which frequently means rough going through thick brush and other obstacles. I am almost always holding a map in one hand, and a compass in the other. For me, at least, and where I tend to go, ziplock doesn't make it. Besides, jamming a map in a pocket severely shortens its life.
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no need for special waterproof paper. I have found that Thompson's Water Seal works great on all maps, and even makes them stronger and tear resistant. Cheap Walmart spray waterproofing is what I used on my Yukon printer-paper maps. 2 cans per 100 pages.
 
Nessmuk said:
TEO said:
Yikes! I could see how those might be better for a long distance canoe race, but if you're merely hiking a freezer-style ziplock is all you need. They're lightweight, waterproof, durable enough, easy to fold and jam in a pocket—preferably one that can be zipped closed—and they're inexpensive.[/QUOTEMerely hiking, ok, ziplock (which I never use personally), but were talking bushwhack here, which frequently means rough going through thick brush and other obstacles. I am almost always holding a map in one hand, and a compass in the other. For me, at least, and where I tend to go, ziplock doesn't make it. Besides, jamming a map in a pocket severely shortens its life.
Click to expand...

Hi Nessmuk,

This is all good stuff. I'm lazy and low key; so I print my maps from on line mapping sites before I head out - they are disposable. I keep them in a Ziplock folded in a pocket, and pull them out as needed; they are usually mangled by the end of the trip, but they are throwaways anyway. But I navigate mainly by terrain features, and I look at the map only periodically for confirmation, or to anticipate the next set of features. So I don't need to have it out all the time.

If I had a valuable map I would use a heavier duty map bag.

Great fun, this stuff! Even short trips off trail wake up the "navigation brain."
Click to expand...
 
TCD said:
Nessmuk said:
If I had a valuable map I would use a heavier duty map bag.

Great fun, this stuff! Even short trips off trail wake up the "navigation brain."
Click to expand...
Skillful wildlands navigation is a "perishable skill", and requires frequent awakening to remain fresh. Even if you only practice the skill by precision location while hiking along a trail helps to preserve the brain power.

I don't know how many USGS topo maps cover NY State, but I have most of them in my personal SAR kit, at least a couple of hundred. When I am called to a SAR incident the first thing I do is to grab a map of the area from my library, if i have it. If I don't have it and I have time before leaving, I will try to print a map of the area from another source. Same for a new area recreational hike I may want to take. Otherwise, a Ranger will give me a fresh printout upon arrival at the SAR Incident Command site. Those printed maps are indeed throw-aways, but my USGS maps are way too expensive to replace after being abused by being wadded up, mangled and thrust into a pocket.
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I expect the concept of buying USGS maps for bushwhacking is rapidly fading away. Many folks are electing to go strictly electronic media (at their peril) or printing out portions of USGS maps usually with an ink jet printer. The ziplock bag concept sort of works but its way too easy to open up the bag just once and let moisture in and typical inkjet inks will start bleeding quite quickly. I usually print out a black and white version on a laser jet to hand out which does not bleed but carry the appropriate USGS maps of the area. If you can find someone with a color laser jet printer its about the best option for printing maps that is available to a typical consumer. There are speciality papers that have water resistant coatings that work well with laser jets that can also help a lot.

One issue I find is that most folks only print out a specific small area of a map, that may be fine for ground navigation but not so good for getting bearings on surrounding mountains and features. There are aps available that appear to be of use for locating nearby mountains by sighting the phone the at the surrounding ridgelines but the ones I have seen are all internet service dependent thus of limited use in areas with poor/no service. Many folks don't realize that there is ready solution to this issue that wont cost that much, the USGS also prints 1 to 100,000 sectionals. They have a 20 meter (about 70 foot) contour intervals and four maps will cover all of NH north of Laconia. For planning purposes they are the way to go and I usually throw the applicable sectional in my pack for bushwhacks. Despite having contours they are not really great for navigating as they don't have the shading for ledges and wet areas. The other sectional series that folks may be aware of is the 1 to 250,000 sectional. One map covers much of northern NH. Folks may have seen the 3D versions at various locations in the region. These are not really suitable for ground navigation but may be of interest to those who want to "pin" a wall map of peaks climbed and peaks to be climbed.

At the start of my bushwhacking career, I had a chance to go in with someone on half price USGS maps and bought quite a set for Northern NH with some coverage in Maine (mostly along the AT and the 100 highest peaks) and a small variety from VT (mostly 100 highest peaks). I built a 4 drawer map file to hold this and other maps and despite frequent use of the USGS maps, they are all still usable although a few are definitely well used.

The paper mill in Gorham used to make the paper for the USGS maps and it wasn't just copy paper, it was acid free archival grade paper with 100% virgin fiber. In this case using virgin versus recycled fibers is worth it as recycled fibers tend to reduce the sheet strength. Long after a standard piece of paper starts to brown out and start tearing along creases, a USGS map will be good for a long time.

The USGS still offers discounts to non profits and "business partners", its not as good as back when I got mine but just in case someone has non profit ID kicking around http://online.wr.usgs.gov/outreach/Discountinfo.pdf
 
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