Daks or Whites

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tomcat32

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Apr 10, 2012
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Location
Tupper Lake, NY
My question is for those that have explored both the Whites (or anything East of Champlain really) and Daks thoroughly. Maybe a 46er and 48 finisher would be best. Do you prefer the Whites or Daks and why. I have extensively explored NH and have done majority of the 48. Have backpacked or day trekked several trips including entire AT, Cohos Trail, Pemi, Wild River, and Presis areas. I also lived in Maine 8 years and have hit all the big areas in the state for hiking as well as most of VT high areas including all of Long Trail I have never explored the Daks other than one day skiing at Gore.
Which do you prefer? Which has better peak bagging or has better backpacking options. How are the crowds, particularlly on the 46ers and around the High Peaks vs the 48 or place like the Pemi or Presis. Is it easy to find Solitude off the beaten track in the DAks since they are so vast?


What do you like about one vs the other.

Any input would be nice.
 
Speaking for myself, day hiking the 48 and 46, I slightly prefer the Whites because of the above treeline hiking and some of the rugged lesser used approaches to get above treeline via Great Gulf, King Ravine, Castle Ravine, and the Dry River valley. I love spending a day roaming around and covering a lot of ground while above the trees. However, I do love the dramatic in your face views the ADK's have, standing on top of Algonquin and staring at Colden, the Trap Dyke and the slides, with the Great Range rising behind it is phenomenal. I am also really taken back hiking by Flowed Lands, what an awesome place!

As far as peak bagging, which is better? I don't look at it that way, I enjoyed both the 46 and 48 the same, loved both! The ADK's have some steep and nasty trails filled with mud, always a fun adventure to get to the top. While the Whites have a few more route options to get to the 48 peaks, that is if you're not just looking to get the list over and done with ASAP, if that's the case you'll most likely find the Whites easier (weather depending). Couple of examples, hiking Jefferson via the Caps Ridge vs Six Husbands or Castle Ravine, or, Adams & Madison via Airline and Valley way vs King Ravine & Watson Path.

Crowds get pretty big in both areas, but the Whites I think are worse. That clusterF* through Franconia Notch and the cars past Appalachia are absurd now.

I haven't done any extensive backpacking so someone else can share their thoughts on that.

Anyway, for day hiking I enjoy them both tremendously! :)
 
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I am probably not the ideal responder for your question because I have only recently started going to the High Peaks of NY but I have hiked the Whites extensively so I have a basis for comparison that maybe will help.

Crowds. In my opinion the crowds in NY are even more insane than NH. In some cases way more insane. I have mostly done the popular stuff from the big trail heads and I found it shocking how many people are out there. Like NH though there are lesser traveled approaches that offer very enjoyable terrain but expect big crowds on the stuff that is "on the list". When I asked a similar question to yours two years ago many were quick to point out that there are plenty of places to be alone and overall it definitely has a far larger feel. There is a lot more distance between stuff up there and less cities and towns for gas, restaurants, etc.

Terrain. To me there are three major differences in NY versus NH. First, as Chris pointed out, there is much less above treeline exposure. Open ridges are far less common in NY (but there are some fabulous ridge walks despite that). Second, the elevation change between peaks (peak to col to peak) is much more substantial in NY. You don't just get the climbing out of the way and cruise the ridges like you do in NH. The cols are steep and it seems like there are more of them. Third, the appproaches before you start climbing and heading to a summit are often far longer in NY versus NH, at least as far as the "list" peaks. (Think Bondcliff via Lincoln Woods as a reference). A lot of people warned me about the ruggedness of the trails and the mud but at least to this point I haven't found it to be all that different. In the right weather it is going to be muddy anywhere.

I have to say that the High Peaks, while definitely very nice and challenging, didn't hit me with that visceral, "WOW" feeling like I expected. I've done several of the tallest peaks as well as some of the classic ridge walks and I find NH to be more enjoyable. Not night and day different than NH but it didn't win me over like I had hoped. When I went to Baxter for the first time two years ago my "WOW" factor was orders of magnitude higher than what my first summits of NY or NH did. Planning an annual trip there is mandatory for me now. It hooked me instantly. Haven't really been able to put my finger on why that is not the case for NY. I'm still going to NY every year and have several summits and routes I want to hit and look forward to it but they are rarely on the front burner when I'm daydreaming about hiking.
 
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Good info so far. Anybody here backpack in the Daks? I have done plenty of backpacking on the other side of Champlain in Vt, NH and ME. It looks like the area has abundant trails and options for extended routes in the Daks. Is it easy to escape crowds in the interior away from 46er THs and routes? By northeast standards is it a worthy destination for backpacking? I have lived in Maine and PA and never heard from many people that have explored the Daks.
 
They are both good, you can't go wrong on either. High Peaks have fewer more centralized parking so crowds are focused into less lots which fill up quickly on weekends. The area is much larger so if looking for solitude on non 4K peaks, you can find it. I've found weekdays to be pretty quiet, I'd say Marcy and Algonquin on a weekday would be quieter than Franconia Ridge & Washington on a weekday. If you can start on a weekday, start at a popular trailhead (Garden, ADK Loj, Elk Lake - they are closed during hunting season and I think other times too) hit the popular peaks during the week and hit less popular peaks and areas on Saturday and Sunday. The farther you are from the lots, generally the quieter the area.

The trail-less peaks is a major difference but with some research and paying attention to your surroundings, summer route finding is a non-issue.

I've done a fair amount in both , I'm a multi time NH 4k, NE67 and just 4 short in the NY for the 115. For a while now, I've done repeats of my favorites and lower peaks with my son and his friends and their Dad's. None of the Dad's and just a couple of boys are up for a Emmons or Cliff trip which are the two I need before finishing on the two I have saved for last.
 
I've done 3 rounds of the 48, and 2 of the 46 (a winter round each), and my gut feel is that the hikes in the ADKs average a little longer, while the 48 might average a little higher. The ADK Loj has access to almost 20 high peaks, (some hikes are longish this way), not something you see in NH. The time above tree line can be spectacular in the Whites, but you also have to be very careful. In the ADKs, it's usually just a few minutes, with the possible exception of Marcy and Algonquin, where people do end up lost from time to time (usually only in the winter, but fog could do it too).

I suppose I could go on and on... :D
 
There is one difference between DAKs & Whites that I haven't noticed being mentioned - you are required to carry a bear canister in DAK High Peaks region for overnight stays, while I don't think the same is required in the Whites. And it isn't just any bear canister! There was a famous saw by the name of Yellow-Yellow that learned how to open BearVault canisters, so there is a list of approved models (I have Garcia Machines that is ok.) While Yellow-Yellow has been killed by a hunter, I believe I saw a reference to another bear in the DAKs that also learned how to open BV canisters.

Yellow-Yellow stealing a backpack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMPSjzKzC-c
 
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