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Thread: Crampon comparison

  1. #31
    Senior Member DougPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Rooney
    Have also heard reports of people climbing Hood in high heels.
    One point crampons?

    Doug

  2. #32
    Senior Member Mad Townie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougPaul
    Technique is a major factor: some of the masters could climb up to 70 degree ice using French technique (no front points) in good ice conditions.

    See "Climbing Ice" by Yvon Choiunard for one of the better how-tos.

    Doug
    Yeah, but despite the shared French heritage, Yvon Chouinard I'm not!!! Same goes for the title of "master."
    Mad Townie

    Take long walks in stormy weather or through deep snows in the fields and woods, if you would keep your spirits up. Deal with brute nature. Be cold and hungry and weary. - H. D. Thoreau

    Easy trails, nice days and comfort are good, too. - M. Townie

  3. #33
    Senior Member DougPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Townie
    Yeah, but despite the shared French heritage, Yvon Chouinard I'm not!!! Same goes for the title of "master."
    Me neither, but 30-45 deg isn't that hard. Even I used to be able to do that...

    Doug

  4. #34
    Senior Member giggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougPaul
    One point crampons?

    Doug
    I head the same thing - a women was reported to have summited hood with high heel shoes. who knows if its true.... guess its possible. if so -I wouldn't advise it!

    "from summit post"
    While Mount Hood has reportedly been summited by a woman in high heels, this does not discount the need for climbing experience on this mountain. An ice axe and crampons should be considered mandatory for most climbers, with climbing helmets being a popular addition, especially higher up.*****

    you have the classic photo:
    http://www.summitpost.org/view_objec...text_id=155408

    lets see this same spot in more detail:
    http://www.summitpost.org/view_objec...text_id=155408

    and lets see what below this spot:
    nice big bergshrund:
    http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/93754.jpg


    my 2 cents is for any of the winter hiking and even mountaineering (I would consider lions head winter route mountaineering as well as washington and the northerns in winter) - 10 points are all ya need.
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  5. #35
    Banned Kevin Rooney's Avatar
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    and lets see what below this spot:
    nice big bergshrund:
    http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/93754.jpg
    That's a good shot.

    Don't know what made me think of this, but sometimes bergshrunds upon up in unexpected places. A few years ago there was a small one below Red Banks on Shasta - to the left of the 3rd chimney. You'd have had to go a bit our of your way to fall into it, but still didn't expect to ever see one it that area.

  6. #36
    Senior Member DougPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by giggy
    and lets see what below this spot:
    nice big bergshrund:
    http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/93754.jpg
    Slurp!

    my 2 cents is for any of the winter hiking and even mountaineering (I would consider lions head winter route mountaineering as well as washington and the northerns in winter) - 10 points are all ya need.
    It has been said that "mountaineering begins at snowline"...

    Doug

  7. #37
    Senior Member DougPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Rooney
    Don't know what made me think of this, but sometimes bergshrunds upon up in unexpected places. A few years ago there was a small one below Red Banks on Shasta - to the left of the 3rd chimney. You'd have had to go a bit our of your way to fall into it, but still didn't expect to ever see one it that area.
    Remember that you don't need a glacier for crevasses (or at least small tension cracks)--any snowfield on a hillside will creep downhill.

    I have heard tension release noises in an inch or so of snow over rock on the Keasarge North (hiking) trail. Would have been scarey if it had been a sizable snow slope.

    Doug

  8. #38
    Senior Member giggy's Avatar
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    doug - not sure what the technical term is, but last year, I saw some crevasse looking cracks in south and central gully towards the end of the season. they were small (2 feet wide maybe) - but you could see how they were pulling away from the ravine wall. - then there is the one in tucks that opens every year.

    I punched though in in south that was at least 15 feet deep. lucky all went well, but the pucker factor was high for a second.

    not sure if they are "technically" crevasses, but a hole is a hole
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  9. #39
    Senior Member DougPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by giggy
    doug - not sure what the technical term is, but last year, I saw some crevasse looking cracks in south and central gully towards the end of the season. they were small (2 feet wide maybe) - but you could see how they were pulling away from the ravine wall. - then there is the one in tucks that opens every year.
    One could view crevasses as big tension cracks...

    Only takes one 6in wide to wrench one's leg.

    When snow climbing up Great Gully (King Ravine) in the late 70s, there were (filled) tension cracks across the gully. We stood in them and had to surmount the 2 or so foot vertical upper face--perhaps the crux of the climb. A number of years later 2 people were avalanched out of the gully and over the cliff at the bottom. (We saw a good bit of avalanche debris below the headwall when we were there.)

    I punched though in in south that was at least 15 feet deep. lucky all went well, but the pucker factor was high for a second.

    not sure if they are "technically" crevasses, but a hole is a hole
    So far, I've managed to stay out of crevasses/tension cracks. Hope to keep it that way...

    Doug

  10. #40
    Senior Member percious's Avatar
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    FYI you don't necessarily have to spend $100 to get a good set of hiking crampons. I got my step-in 10 pointers (2 front points) for $32 on Sierra at the end of the season a couple of years back. I use them on all my non-technical climbs now. I have 3 sets of crampons now!

    10 point toe-heel bails
    12 point strap on mountaineering crampons
    12 point toe-heel for Ice climbing only.

    The ice climbing crampons have removable front points, can be set as a mono point, and have replaceable parts. The mountaineering crampons are one forged piece of steel but work well for everything "Central Gully" climbing and lower.

    -percious

  11. #41
    Senior Member giggy's Avatar
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    I have climbed willy's slide as well as some 3's 4's top roped on cathedral ledge vasaks. but - I bet the sarkens (or equiv) would work better!

    doug - just say no to crack
    Accomplishments:
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    Voted the "best barnes field" party organizer 2008
    Only person to get bit by a dog on mt washington
    Most known ascents of the picnic tables on the kanc
    Most rounds of the pinkhman notch visitor center stairs - also fastest known time of climbing the stairs from the gear room to the gift shop
    Adopter of la casa in millinocket and the cheap beer store in gorham

  12. #42
    Senior Member Lawn Sale's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Townie
    I use WAAYY overkill Charlet Moser M-10s, only because I found them for a really amazing price (well under $100) when LL Bean was getting out of the winter mountaineering line. Same time as I got my plastic boots.

    They work great, but I have to be very careful with them sometimes because they're very aggressive. Under normal circumstances I would probably get a much tamer set, which would be fine for the Whites and Katahdin. On the other hand, it's nice to know that the terrain will never overwhelm them!

    I just bought a set of these and they are very aggressive. Did you know Petzl recommends they not be used for hiking due to their rigidity? You're right though, you probably won't outclimb that equipment!
    Appearances are not everything, it just looks like they are.




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