backpack repair, internal frame

my problem is: my Kelty internal frame backpack, one of the 2 flat metal bars which run parallel to my spine, has burst through the bottom of the pack.

looks like a rather difficult repair job, or time for a new pack.

I searched the forums a few times for: "sew, backpack, repair, internal, frame, etc." I did find one person, responding to others' threads, who seems to work wonders with repairing gear...

apart from PM-ing that person, any ideas on where to get this repaired?

or similar experiences of cost/benefit ratio of repair vs a new pack?

many thanks!

You might take a look at http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com. Penny S. used to be an active participant in rec.backcountry and had a good reputation there. (Disclaimer: I have never done any business with her.)

Doug

Your local EMS will probably do it even if it's not theirs for a price.
They fixed my zipper that a tree rodent ate through to get a bite size of a piece of granola left in it, no charge, it was their pack but it was not a structural problem they needed to do gratis. I was impressed. Needless to say I pprobably have paid for 100 repairs so far

I have had pretty good luck in the past doing my own repairs with a saddle stitcher which is designed for stitching leather. Granted the repairs may not look great but they work. Ragged Mouintain in north conway used to carry them plus the heavy duty waxed thread to go with it. They also sell scrap fabrics which you would need to reinforce the area.

peakbagger said:

I have had pretty good luck in the past doing my own repairs with a saddle stitcher which is designed for stitching leather.

Click to expand...

Would this be the tool? http://www.rei.com/search?vcat=REI_SEARCH&query=speedy+stitcher&x=0&y=0 (speedy stitcher sewing awl).

Doug

DougPaul said:

Would this be the tool? http://www.rei.com/search?vcat=REI_SEARCH&query=speedy+stitcher&x=0&y=0 (speedy stitcher sewing awl).
Doug

Click to expand...

I used a sewing awl one time to reattach a shoulder strap to a backpack. It came loose where the two straps meet and attach to the pack. I got tired of one-shouldering the pack. I came off the trail on a multi-day backpack in the ADKs, made my way to the outdoor store in Keene, purchased one of these awls and did the repair in the parking lot, then returned to the trail. It did a rather messy job, and it took a few tries to master the technique of sewing with an awl, but the repair held for years. Ever since, I've looked much more carefully at how straps are attached to packs, making sure there that the stitching has plenty of purchase on the fabric. The pack that failed was not inexpensive, a well-known brand; I had not overloaded it; the stitching had not rotted; etc. The retailer declined to replace the pack. It was my last purchase from that place.

I would repair the pack cloth using some good thread, my preference is braided heavy kevlar thread, found in the fishing line department. It usually comes in a green color, but it works very well and I have never had a thread let go. The speedy stitcher is a great tool, or you could use a sail/leather needle, which usually come curved and make the work easier.

Then I would sleeve the end of the metal support with something to disperse the weight better. On one of my packs I just used a piece of black semi-rigid tubing (3/8" or 1/2"), cut a slit in the side of it for the support to fit perpendicular, and had the support sit in it on each side, so it rested on the bottom of the pack. This transfers the weight to more than just the localized area and should do the trick. If you put both sides in the tubing, which runs the whole length of the bottom of the pack, it'll also stiffen it slightly, which will further reduce the pressure stressed areas. If the sleeves are in separate pockets, which is often the case, just make a small slit at the bottom (this is best done with the pack inverted), so the tubing can pass from one side to the other, but make the holes no larger than what you need. The holes are most easily made with a soldering iron, so there are no frayed edges and the integrity is not compromised. Just be careful with the tip near the nylon, it goes through everything very easily.

I have also thrown away the two braces and made just one from a sheet of 1/4" HDPE (High Density Polyethylene), formed it to the shape I wanted, then drilled holes for weight savings. The nice thing here is you can heat it to mold it to your back and it will retain the shape, but flex well when weighted.

Wow! thanks!

thanks to everyone for your suggestions.

"ask and you shall receive" I guess!



peace,

ken