Climber dies on Summit of Denali

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B the Hiker

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This poor man's family will never get to see his remains unless they hike up there.

July 8, 2008
National Briefing | Northwest
Alaska: Illinois Man Dies at McKinley Summit
By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
New York Times

A climber collapsed and died on the summit of Mount McKinley, officials at Denali National Park said. The climber, James Nasti, 51, of Naperville, Ill., died of unknown causes on Friday after his seven-member party reached the top of McKinley, the highest peak in North America. Maureen McLaughlin, a park spokeswoman, said that Mr. Nasti had been very fit and that she was unaware of any pre-existing medical issues. His group set out on June 20 and eventually headed for the summit on a clear day, she said. Mr. Nasti was buried at the summit, Ms. McLaughlin said, because park rangers said that recovering his body from the jagged ridge would be extremely risky. Mr. Nasti is the first climber known to have died at the summit, officials said.
 
Sad story...

Most people parish on the way down from the summit and not on top (unless they fall from the summit ridge which is a snowy knife edge), but I can certainly understand the situation...

Last I heard there were around 30 bodies still on the mountain with the majority of them in crevasses.

My condolences go out to his family... It's one tough unmerciful mountain...
 
I think it would be good to know what he died from.

No disrespect intended but that's not such a bad place to checkout from and rest for eternity.
 
There is an article in today's NY Times which mentions another death of a 20 yr old climber on Denali who died in almost the same fashion as Mr Nasti, though not at the summit but near a 17,2000 ft camp.

JohnL
 
I don't disagree that there are worse places to be buried, but as I noted in the first posting, there are other human costs. This poor man's family does not have his remains to grieve over. Also, someone had to bury his body up there, and I don't imagine that was too pleasant.

Timothy Egan posted the opinion piece below in today's New York Times. I would be interested to hear what other folks on VFTT think on this issue.

BJG

# # #

July 9, 2008, 9:33 pm
Mountain Madness
Mount McKinley. (Michael DeYoung/Alaska Stock)

For nearly two weeks, a friend of mine had been trying to reach the roof of North America, a place no bigger than a dining room rug, about 200 miles south of the Arctic circle. He’s a restless soul, briskly roaming the world in search of thin air before he gets too worn and cautious in late middle-age.

Last I checked, he was pinned at high camp by the kind of storms that keep nearly half of the 1,400 people who attempt to climb Mount McKinley from succeeding. Winds, 60 to 70 miles an hour. Temperatures, even in the first weeks of summer, hovering near zero.

Then came sudden news –- a 51-year-old man had died on Denali, as most Alaskans call the mountain. He made it to the top on the Fourth of July, and then collapsed –- the first climber ever to die on the mountain’s summit. He was buried in a frozen grave at 20,320 feet.

It took a few hours before I confirmed the name of the dead climber. I was relieved, of course, that it was not my friend, but I found no comfort in the details of the death.

The victim, James Nasti from Naperville, Ill., was an experienced mountaineer, with no history of heart trouble, and had shown no signs of altitude sickness. He belonged to a club whose members try to reach the highest point in all 50 states. For James Nasti, Denali was number 49.

Whenever anyone dies in the mountains, I have the same, inevitable conversation with climbing friends. It happened just a month ago, when a 31-year-old man died in a snowstorm during a day hike on Mount Rainier, a big volcano whose summit I’ve sworn off after a scary climb a couple of years ago.

We always start with this question: How did they mess up? We look for obvious mistakes and easy answers: a rope not properly attached, a crevasse that should never have been crossed and, most often, a weather forecast that went unheeded.

A wise group of Rainier climbing veterans, including some of the first Americans to make it up Mount Everest, have a saying whenever they tell war stories: There are old climbers and bold climbers, but no old, bold climbers.

With mountaineering fatalities, the cases without apparent human error are the most maddening, and troubling.

So it was on Denali. James Nasti was on a guided climb, led by world-class alpinists. By all accounts, he had been cautious, and was in great shape for his age. The weather was fine. He had done nothing foolish, taken no missteps. Having reached the highest point in North America, one of the premier mountaineering achievements in the world, he simply fell back and died, the 101st death on the mountain since 1932. An autopsy, if his body is ever removed, may yet provide some answers.

Then, on Monday, while people were still puzzling over Nasti’s collapse, came word of another sudden and seemingly inexplicable death.

A 20-year-old climber from Indonesia, Pungkas Tri Baruno, died near a 17,200-foot base camp while descending from Denali’s summit. He stopped walking, stopped breathing, fell to the snow and died, just like James Nasti.

These men, Baruno and Nasti, will soon join the other names on the granite memorial at Denali’s base. It doesn’t provide much of a consistent narrative, but it does give you a sense of the odds.

For every death on the mountain, about 500 people will make the summit. An 11-year-old boy and a 76-year-old man – the youngest and oldest summiteers – have looked out from that glorious place in the Alaska Range where you run out of earth.

Death can come from crossing the street, or eating a tomato. My first literary agent, a wonderful woman with a full life ahead of her, was killed by a bus in Manhattan. Why not experience the heightened sense of living that comes from getting closer to the edge – controlled risk, in the mountains or on a wild river? So goes my internal palaver whenever I think of what happened on Denali.

The other side of the argument is about loved ones, the people who are left behind.

In his book “Into Thin Air,” Jon Krakauer chronicled the deadly 1996 season on Everest, a story of hubris and tragic miscalculations that has since been told from multiple points of view, by various survivors. Climbing Everest, Krakauer wrote, is “an intrinsically irrational act.”

One of the dead was Scott Fischer, a guide from Seattle. Fischer was charismatic, with chiseled good looks that seemed to come from the mountain gods, an alpine stud in the eyes of his clients. He also had two young kids, who went to the same elementary school as my children.

When Fischer died I saw a mountaineering death, for the first time, from a different point of view: that of the surviving children.

In reading about Jim Nasti’s death on the summit of Denali, then, the thing that stayed with me were the details about his family. The calculus of risk is different for everyone. But on the Fourth of July, atop the nation’s highest mountain, one man’s personal glory was swiftly transformed.

He was mountaineer, a great one for a moment – and then he was a father of three boys gone, a husband no more.
 
B the Hiker said:
Also, someone had to bury his body up there, and I don't imagine that was too pleasant.
Actually burial on the big mountains isn't all that difficult--after documenting the death (typically by taking some pictures), removing personal effects to be brought back (ie cameras), you just put the body in a nearby handy-dandy deep crevasse.

Doug
 
Little Rickie said:
No disrespect intended

I read somewere some mountain climber when ask about the risk of dying while climbing said to the effect, I don't climb mountins to die, I climb mountains to live.

I'm not belittling the remorse and feelings of those left behind. If it were me up there I would not want people to grieve. I would want the to have a party in my name.
 
Losing someone, whether on a mountain or not will never be pleasant although I would too hope that there would be a party and not a funeral when I go.

The discussion about whether the risk taken is worth the possible consequences will never go away.

People have different views and feelings towards life and death, and that in turn will affect how they react to death. Unfortunately you can't change how your loved ones feel about life and death.

I guess the only thing one can do is to be open with their loved ones about understanding the consequences and preparing in case something does happen.

One thing that will never change is the fact that people will keep doing the things that they love.
 
Sadly, I suspect my friends will throw a party upon learning of my death regardless of how I go! Humor aside, I do agree that if I had to be taken unexpectedly, I would like to pass away on a mountain where I could rest forever.

That being said, I don't have a spouse or children who perhaps might like to be able to say goodbye in person.
 
B the Hiker said:
Timothy Egan posted the opinion piece below in today's New York Times. I would be interested to hear what other folks on VFTT think on this issue

I think the comments section on Egan's blog are even better than the excellent article he wrote. And to further the various answers on the question "Why did he (do we) put his life in danger?" there was an interesting report from New Zealand that concluded climbers have a deeper understand ing of the meaning of life than non-climbers
 
WinterWarlock said:
And to further the various answers on the question "Why did he (do we) put his life in danger?" there was an interesting report from New Zealand that concluded climbers have a deeper understand ing of the meaning of life than non-climbers

I'm not picking on you Warlock, just wasting some friday-afternoon-at-work time here;

I'm not sure conducting "in-depth interviews with 22 New Zealand-based climbers" and spending "a lot of time socializing with and interviewing several more" represents valid measurement, but it probably wasn't a bad way to do the research for her thesis and book.

"Many people struggle these days with a sense of belonging, but the climbers that I spoke to all had a very strong sense of identity, that to me was the most significant finding," she said.

So she managed to locate 22 climbers with big egos ? Doesn't seem too difficult. ;)

"Many said the mountain became their point of reference, it gave them a solid grounding, a core to life where everything else revolved around it."

Many people could substitute their passion/sport for "mountain" in this statement.

The research said one way that climbing helps shape identity was by providing an opportunity to test yourself in an environment where making a mistake means you pay for it.

I agree with this, but again there are many activities that could be substituted.

DougPaul said:
Actually burial on the big mountains isn't all that difficult--after documenting the death (typically by taking some pictures), removing personal effects to be brought back (ie cameras), you just put the body in a nearby handy-dandy deep crevasse.

Doug
I got the impression he was left somewhere where he might be able to be recovered, but I could be wrong about that.

B the Hiker said:
He belonged to a club whose members try to reach the highest point in all 50 states. For James Nasti, Denali was number 49.
Selfishly I'd love to know which he was saving for his 50th, if not Denali.
 
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No worries Chip - I have a deeper understanding of my place in life to be worried about being picked on! :D Plus, I'm killing some Friday afternoon time as well.

Naturally - she's a climber, she hung out one day with her bud's and wrote a report. Probably used grant money for the day out, too...we should all be so lucky.

As for the recent week on Denali, ever since the '96 Everest accidents, outsiders look at more than one death in a period of time as related - these clearly seemed not to be, but someone is looking for the link to call it a trend and sensationalize it. I thought Egan's post was pretty good at avoiding that, though.

As I recall, you were just there, right?
 
no, me and Paradox summited Rainier a couple days before the guy died there just below Muir. Matts' group was on Denali at the same time, which was when the Asian climbers died there.
 
Ahh - that's right...it's been a tough year all around, starting with the winter as well. And I still believe all the books and documentaries from Everest have contributed to the increased awareness in general of the accidents. It'll be interesting to see the AAC's report this year, and compare to the last few...I don't know how the number of accidents compares year over year.

I do agree with Rickie :eek: when it's my time to go, I'd sure rather be there than in a hospital bed somewhere.

Selfishly I'd love to know which he was saving for his 50th, if not Denali.
Maybe his home state?
 
DougPaul said:
Actually burial on the big mountains isn't all that difficult--after documenting the death (typically by taking some pictures), removing personal effects to be brought back (ie cameras), you just put the body in a nearby handy-dandy deep crevasse.
Chip said:
I got the impression he was left somewhere where he might be able to be recovered, but I could be wrong about that.
On Denali, officials and evac capability are generally close at hand. Presumably they will take care of the legalities and evac or disposal of the body. However, on many big mountains, such is not readily available and my above comment outlines the general procedure. (There are more details in "Medicine for Mountaineering", by Wilkerson.)

I have no knowledge of what was done in this case.


The victim was reported to have been experienced, so presumably he knew the risks and thought they were worth taking. And there is no guarantee that he would lived had he chosen not to climb the mountain.

Doug
 
DougPaul said:
And there is no guarantee that he would lived had he chosen not to climb the mountain. Doug

Never is for any of us, is there?

I've had sixteen flights in the last five weeks, and have thought about that every time I get on board...you just never know, so you do what you have to do.
 
WinterWarlock said:
And I still believe all the books and documentaries from Everest have contributed to the increased awareness in general of the accidents.
Not just Everest. The news media tends to only report sensational accidents/searches, etc (Mt Hood, several recent searches in the Whites, etc). The parties that get themselves out in spite of problems or have uneventful (safety-wise) trips very rarely make the media.

I also rather strongly suspect that this leads to a public perception that hiking/mountaineering is more dangerous than it really it. And not all hiking/mountaineering is as dangerous as the 8000 meter peaks, either.

Doug
 
WinterWarlock said:
Never is for any of us, is there?

I've had sixteen flights in the last five weeks, and have thought about that every time I get on board...you just never know, so you do what you have to do.
You left out the risk of getting to and from the airport, likely by driving... (By one estimate, driving is riskier than flying if the distance is greater than 18km (11 mi).)

Ref: http://www.americanscientist.org/issues/pub/flying-and-driving-after-the-september-11-attacks


Doug
 
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I learned basic climbing from a couple of Kiwis back in the 80's and doubt seriously that they had a better sense of themselves or life and death or whatever that study claims than anyone else. They were great guys, good climbers and good teachers, but this sounds like academic rubbish to me. This idea could be true of people in lots of professions-I bet if you asked any of the men and women who are serving in Iraq about this, they probably have a pretty good answer.

Not to seem too callous about it, but people die all the time for no readily apparent reason. Look at Tim Russert-heart attack on the job in DC. Remember Jim Fixx, the guy who popularized running in the late 70's? Heart attack at 52 while out running. People may seem healthy, but you don't always know unless you are checked out regularly. In Russert's case, he was getting regular checkups.

BTW, cutting and pasting a complete story from the NYT (or any other site for that matter) is frowned on on other sites I belong to because it is copyright infringement; linking to the story is the more acceptable way to direct readers to it.

My guess as to his #50 would be Mauna Kea, highest point in Hawaii. It is the tallest mountain in the world if you count the part of it that is underwater. If I remember right, you can drive almost all the way to the top, so not much of a challenge.
 
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