Giant - Eagle Slide

I'm going to be vacationing on Schroon next week and a half, and I am planning on doing some daypacks. One thing that caught my eye was the eagle slide on Giant. What is the deal with this slide? Is it possible in dry weather w/out ropes? Are rock climbing shoes recommended? How do you get to it? Any information you guys have would be helpful.

-percious

I second every question, as I plan on that this august sometime--Another question would be where about do you exit the trail to find the base of the slide. I've heard that climbing shoes are good for that, and the middle finger is a great option.

Some info here from a previous thread.

percious said:

...What is the deal with this slide? Is it possible in dry weather w/out ropes? Are rock climbing shoes recommended? How do you get to it? Any information you guys have would be helpful.

Click to expand...

Did the main Eagle slide a few years back - be comfortable on steep rock. At the time, I thought rock shoes would have made it more fun, but not required. Do not use heavy hiking boots. The approach can be wicked - basically right up the stream bed (roaring brook?). Would not be fun if wet... if a storm comes in, your best bet is to traverse into the scrub on the side of the slide. I would categorize the main slide as a definite 4th class, so if you are more comfortable with rope, use it (but bear in mind there isn't that much pro available anyway, so it will mainly benefit your follower).

Hillman,
Our plan was to do this Aug. 6th. Early-ish start. We wanted to combo Rocky Peak ridge, and spot a car. Both of us have rock climbing shoes which we will probably be bringing. You are welcome to join.

Now we just need to figure out how to get to the slide.... Is eagle on the northern side of Giant?

-percious

Best source for info is Don Mellor's book on Climbing in the Adirondacks. It's definitely a class 3, however, no rope required unless you want it more for psychological help with the exposure. You basically take the Roaring Brook trail until it and the brook part ways, then folllow the brook, staying with the main branch at any forks. You just follow it right up to the base of the slide, and if you take the straightest, most direct route, that's the middle finger or whatever, the cleanest and most enjoyable one, I think. It's steep as slides go, but certainly not technical. At the top it's a short easy bushwhack to the trail, and you head left to the summit. I definitely would pick a dry day, hopefully the second of two dry days, and you'll really enjoy it. Rock shoes aren't necessary, but a low cut appoach shoe is more comfortable than a stiff hiking boot, that's for sure.

What is the deal with this slide? Is it possible in dry weather w/out ropes? Are rock climbing shoes recommended? How do you get to it?

Click to expand...

Having done the Eagle Slide three times, I'll throw my suggestions out.

It can be done in dry conditions without ropes. Should rain begin, do what was previously suggested and move laterally into the scrub. Do not stick around unroped.

I use climbing shoes. I feel comfortable with the extra grip. I used approach shoes once, but felt the soles slip way too easy. A friend of mine did it in hiking boots, but that is for the brave.

Approaching the slide is done by taking the Roaring Brook trail toward Giant and departing it on the left side at 2400 - 2600 feet. There was a cairn on the trail at one time. I am not sure it is still there. Drop down into the brook and follow that up on the left side. You will enter the brook a couple of times. Rock fall will increase as you approach the slab.

Good Luck,
Ed

How does this slide compare to climbing Gothics where the cables used to be?

How does this slide compare to climbing Gothics where the cables used to be?

Click to expand...

I've been interested in the Eagle Slide as well... how does it compare to the Great Slide on E. Dix?

I'd say certainly harder than each of those. I only remember using the cables on the way down Gothics, not up. And the slide on East Dix is pretty easy compared to most slides.

Gothics and East Dix

It doesn't really compare to either the cable(less) side of Gothics or to the East Dix Slide (did that on Saturday).
The Eagle is steeper and you get a much greater feeling of exposure. I wouldn't feel comfortable on the Eagle in hiking boots. As soon as the steepness starts, I switch to rock shoes and my comfort level goes up exponentially. I've followed friends up who were climbing the slide in low-cut approach shoes. They would have to pick their way up some spots, where I could walk straight up.
When you get near the top there are some great perches to sit and have lunch on - and the best part is that you'll escape the crowds on the summit.

Unavailable on the 6th--wish I could go. Normally, I'd be hiking this weekend too(31st), but I've finally finished my 46er quest, leaving me open to go to the deerfield festival in mass. I've nearly forgotten what kayaking is like...

Warning, warning reminescence coming!

I did the Eagle back in 78 when was 15. That was in the days of big ole boots with Norwegian welts. At one point we were going over a bit of a heave and I was sure my boots were starting to lose traction. I froze searching for a way to move that wouldn't start me sliding backwards - I never thought, is that why they call it a slide? - and yelped, "oh shit, oh shit". Another member of our group, kafka was his name stretched and grabbed my arm pulling up hard enough to give me enough confidence and traction to make it past that heave. From there on I covered the side of the slide within reach of the Balsams growing there.

Now I know that, the approved technique for getting the best grip on rock is to lean back a little bit keeping your weight over your feet and stay offyour toes keeping as much of your sole in contact with the rock as possible and if i could have stuck to this I probably would have had no problem. It is damn hard however not to press yourself to the rock and grasp for any handholds you can find when it starts getting steep.

Well, thanks for shooting down my confidence. I just climbed the E Dix slide last weekend and had a great time scrambling to the top. I took a line straight up the "headwall" instead of taking the trail along the right side of the slide. Maybe this accounts for the discrepency in opinions of difficulty? Hope so. True, there were plenty of hand/foot holds and perches, but I can't see how the terrain could get much steeper (see photo). Maybe I just need to get onto more slides Any excuse to get up to the mountains.

rico said:

.... there were plenty of hand/foot holds and perches, but I can't see how the terrain could get much steeper...

Click to expand...

Make no mistake... Eagle is steep, and the consequences of a slip severe. At its steepest, you need to look closely for any little indent or nubbin that will give a foothold. Its a blast!

Well, I think the variety of responses you've gotten just reflects the variety of people's comfort level on steep terrain. You've gotten good advice, though - as much as possible, try to be upright, with your weight over your feet. For the most part, your grip will come from friction rather than footholds, so having your weight directly over your feet maximizes that. You can reach your arms out to balance and grab the occasional hand hold, but the more you lean into the rock, the more your feet will tend to slip.

As for rock shoes, it's kind of a zen question. If you have 'em, odds are you won't need them, only because you've probably climbed a bit, have good technique, and could go up it in sneakers. (Actually, that's not as crazy as it sounds. Since most of your grip comes from friction, a softer shoe that contacts the rock as completely as possible is preferrable.)

If you don't have them, then you probably haven't climbed much or at all, and the sticky soles would be nice. But, rock shoes are notoriously uncomfortable for long walks, which is basically what this is, so myself, I prefer my old five-tennies for slides.

Anyway, it's not like you're goint to "fall off" it. But, there are certainly some places where I wouldn't want to fall because you might roll a while before you came to a stop! But people climb it all the time in various degrees of preparedness, and accidents on it are pretty rare, so that should tell you something. Enjoy it - it's spectacular!

Helpful info about Eagle slide on Giant

Here is a link with some good information about climbing the Eagle Slide on Giant:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/1805/object_id/435

Thanks Thunder Dan. Exactly the info I was looking for.

-percious

Yes, very nice Thunder Dan. Percious, I'll let you be my guinea pig . Have fun, and tell me how it went!

When I did the Eagle Slide it was a couple days after a rain. We followed Roaring Brook right up to the base of it. We then thried to aim our climb to the second feather, which we were told was the more moderate one. I would say it was the toughest slide climb I've ever done. Very slippery when wet, I found myself stuck between a wet section and a too steep section. I had to make a standing leap for another dry section, talk scared, it would have been me bouncing down a twenty foot section of cliff into the trees.

To make a long story shorter, if you have climbing shoes bring them, you'll feel much safer. I did it in regular hikers, and the footing was very shotty.