Mt. Shasta Climb in August

We're thinking of climbing Mt. Shasta in August. Does anyone have any suggestions for us, aside from not wearing sneakers?

http://blog.oregonlive.com/nwheadlines/2010/06/sneaker-wearing_tacoma_man_res.html

In August it should be warm enough to attempt it naked.

assuming your going the av gulch - straightforward snow climb. You don't need rope, etc.. but of course def take your ice axe, pons, and helmet - the rocks coming off the red banks will be a flyin' esp on your way down.

the town pretty much has everything you need, but still is quite small.

Its a great mountain and lots a fun - and mellow/easy for a cascade volcanoe - but still should be respected and it is over 14k, so on summit day, you will feel the ele.

There are a few route variations leaving from camp/lake helen via the gulch, so i would suggest scopping your route in daylight. Your likely gonna wanna leave somewhere in the midnight to 2am range, so you can summit early and be back through the red banks by mid day... when the sun heats that area up - its a shooting gallery.

Ellen -

In a regular snow year, climbing Shasta in August might be a bit late. You want adequate snow cover, especially on the Avalanche Gulch route. However - this year doing it in August is probably OK, as it's been a heavy snow year and a late spring.

Here's an excellent website for starters, and the Shasta Cam will give you a good visual on snow cover on the Avy Gulch route. Here's the current shot of the mountain. The so-called "Red Banks" is the somewhat horizontal band just below and to the right of what appears to be the summit (it's not; rather it's Misery Hill).

When I'm in the Shasta area, I usually stay in Weed, about 10 miles north, as it's a bit more reasonable.

Kevin

I did Av Gulch when there was no snow. Av Gulch was a big tailless slope. IIRC, on the advice of someone coming down, we left our crampons in the car. Snow might be nicer, but it can be done without.

Doug

watch out for the black flies. i hear they are horrendous that time of year at around 11,294 feet.

i second craigs suggestion.

yeah, if you go from Bunny Flats, it's a long climb to the Red Banks but it's one helluva butt slide if it's late season and people ski it.

One hint is try not to drop your Nalgene just below the Red banks when you have 2 fellow climbers down below. Right Giggy?? So glad that didn't have a worse outcome cause I saw it go into the chute and then it was like Oh.. SH****TTTTT....

Jay

To those who've been, is that crampons with anti-bots? (to keep snow from balling up on the crampons.)

I don't use them in the winter here.

Mike P. said:

To those who've been, is that crampons with anti-bots? (to keep snow from balling up on the crampons.)

I don't use them in the winter here.

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I did use them and find them very handy on summer "out west climbs"

I have had antibots since 2005 when I bough my vasaks and they nearly all come with them now.

all conditions dependent. This being an august climb and temps will probably be high and sun strong, I would guess the snow will be balling up pretty good on the way down.

if ya don't have them - you can go old skool and bang the balling snow off every 2 steps. if the snow is really balling - might be going that anyway.

Not to be contrary, but I don't think balling up will be an issue in August. I did a snow climb yesterday in the Sierra, and the snow is now corn snow, and that stuff doesn't tend to ball up as it softens.

Jus' sayin'...

"...aside from not wearing sneakers."

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My partner and I did Wyoming's Gannett Peak last August wearing Kahtoola crampons on trail runners. Since we wouldn't be on steep snow for very long, it just wasn't worth it, to us, to schlep in heavy boots.

Our route was via Green River Lakes and Tourist Creek:
http://www.summitpost.org/route/536366/tourist-creek.html

Did Montana's Granite Peak in trail runners as well.

Point being, for some folks "sneakers" are a more practical option. (Admittedly naive about Shasta in August; I've been there only in April.)

Best wishes for Mt. Shasta -- she sure is a beauty.

I heard that there was this dude who ran up Mont Blanc in sneakers in some crazy record time.

But if you are crazy and good enough to do that, I'm sure it's easy to do it speedily. I think, Stinkyfeet, you can relate to that.

I'm also working on a trip to Shasta in July/Aug....so all good beta!!!

Hopefully the timing will work out.......looks impressive!!

One other comment - while you can self-issue a permit at the Bunny Flats trailhead and pick up a wag bag there, I'd strongly suggest a visit to the USFS Ranger Station in Shasta itself. Their rangers are very knowledgeable, and they don't talk down to you. Their advice is up-to-date and timely.

As others have said, August is late for Avalanche Gulch. It becomes a shooting gallery of rockfall after the good snow cover melts off. That doesn't stop hordes of people from doing it that way, which in turn makes the rockfall problem worse.

I would seriously suggest using the East side route up the Hotlum/Wintun ridge instead. It's a fairly straightforward route, not more difficult than AG, and (IMO) more aesthetic. It's also much less heavily travelled. It usually keeps great snow cover from around 8500-9000' all the way to around 13,200' right through the season. If you want more info on this one, shoot me a pm and we can talk some more.

Matt

Jay H said:

yeah, if you go from Bunny Flats, it's a long climb to the Red Banks but it's one helluva butt slide if it's late season and people ski it.

One hint is try not to drop your Nalgene just below the Red banks when you have 2 fellow climbers down below. Right Giggy?? So glad that didn't have a worse outcome cause I saw it go into the chute and then it was like Oh.. SH****TTTTT....

Jay

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Don't try butt-sliding too early in the mroning... it's pretty scary if it's still real frozen

And listen to Jay, that nalgene nearly took my head off!