Doc McPeak
New member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2003
- Messages
- 952
- Reaction score
- 71
Part one...
Here follows a short (yes, short...) account of my first New Hampshire backpacking trip. A loop around the Pemigewasett Wilderness across rugged and beautiful ridges and over many peaks with some high altitude camping.
4 days, about 30 miles of backpacking, 8 miles of extra slackpacking peakbagging. And 11 4K's: Bondcliff, Mount Bond, West Bond, (Guyot), Zealand, South Twin, North Twin, Galehead, Garfield, Lafayette, Lincoln, (Little Haystack) and Liberty.
Travel day: (this is for the beer lovers only!) You know you're in for a good trip when you hit up the Longtrail Brewpub for lunch (and a delicious Hit the Trail, Double Bag, and Autumnal Brew) and dinner at the Woodstock Station (for a Pemi Pale, Pig's Ear, and Stout ... Black Bear Stout? ... I can't recall any names or places after the Pig's Ear
...
DAY ONE -- September 11, 2004: Lincoln Woods, Franconia Falls, Wilderness, Bondcliff Trails.
Drop a car at the Flume, take the Shuttle over to Lincoln Woods, and hoist the ridiculously heavy pack on to my shoulders. I could feel every ounce of the four bottles of wine I had packed for the trip! Indulgences come with their prices ... like brownies, and cookies, grilled cheese sandwichs and quesadillas with salsa and gaucamole -- but are worth every wince along the way! (Hey, I did pack powdered milk for the morning coffee session...)
As a warm-up for an ambitious backpack, the Lincoln Woods Trail is superb. Soft, wide, flat, and straight as an arrow. Flew right by as we landed at the spur to Franconia Falls and the bridge into the Pemi Wilds. A gaggle of mountain bikes were parked by the bridge with signs for their Owl's Head Flags over the 48. Along the way we took a break by the roaring river and were treated to our first sighting of Bondcliff... or so I confidently told Ron.
The Falls were roaring and the rangers were warning and we enjoyed a lovely snack there basking in the sun. Once on the Wilderness Trail, again a delightful easy stroll for us on day one, we were soon treated to a bear crossing the trail a hundred feet in front of us. Good sized (250-300) and in the early afternoon. All I could think of was I hope he didn't smell what was in my pack! For he would be one happy bear.
Lunch at the Bondcliff trail junction of the Gaucamole and Blue corn chips, and then we started into our first bit of real climbing for the day. When we hit the first crossing of Black Brook, a tell tale path headed into the open woods and several illegal campsites. Venturing back another couple hundred feet we found a nice spot we could squeeze into and dropped our packs. We hung our bag by some trees with care, then headed down to make dinner on the high banks above the brook. First night is always tasty, and several glasses of wine, sesame miso soup, grilled cheese and smoked turkey on sourdough with some yummy roasted garlic mayonaisse hit the spot.
DAY TWO -- September 12, 2004: Bondcliff, Mount Bond, Guyot campsite with a West Bond Sunset trek.
Another perfect morning, and the Bondcliff Trail alternated between long flights of stone stairs and nice gentle grades all the way up to the boulder ladder and the first real nice view. I waited for Ron, snapping photos and growing excited to break through the small fringe of trees and on to the rock faces of the summit above. Ron had his snack and we were off. Ten minutes later we broke through the trees... WOW! What an awesome sight.
We dropped our packs below the summit, were the party of eight we saw on the trail were camped out, and wandered about savoring the views. West Bond is right in front of you, across from chasm, with the faint music of the Hellgate Brook below. The scars on her southern side glistened in the sun and created a stunning contrast with the incredible cliff faces dropping into the valley below us. Now I see why they warn you to stay East in foggy conditions! Yikes...
Pics of the trek up to Bondcliff:
http://community.webshots.com/album/189143565YTIiwF
After about two hours we dragged oursleves from this sweet perch and started the walk along the open ridge toward Mount Bond. You can't get tired of the views on this jaunt. Just amazing. The sun was warm on our faces and the breeze sweet and cooling. Not that it made the trek up to 4698' Mount Bond any easier! That last climb doesn't quit, but Bond's open summit is just as spectacular as Bondcliff, with views toward the Presidential Range and everything in between. Fantastic.
From the summit to the West Bond spur and finally the Guyot Campsite turn is a nice ridge walk through quiet woods and the occassional verdant green clover patch. And then comes the descent to the campsite! Drop, drop, drop! But, again, worth it. For the tough haul to this site is rewarded by a beautifully laid out labyrinth of stone paths and nice platforms. And especially when you hit it on the slowest night of the year! Only two other hikers were there so we decided to take the shelter.
Ron had opted out of the West Bond Sunset Tour, but after seeing we would have the shelter, and plenty of extra leg room, he rallied for a magical tour to this very special peak. Bondcliff was ruggedly awesome with its cliffs, Mount Bond stately as it towered above the whole southern Pemis, but West Bond in its isolation and thin summit profile has its own majestic presence. And to watch the sun crash into Franconia Ridge after basking in the alpenglow was the best end to a day in the Bonds one could ask for!
Bond and West Bond, all to ourselves, and then the shelter!? Especially when a cold front moved through with several hours of rain! I love this New Hampshire hiking!
Pics of this leg:
http://community.webshots.com/album/189422135KHkyHC
DAY THREE -- September 13, 2004: Guyot Shelter, Little Guyot, Big Guyot, Zealand and back, Twinway, South Twin, North TWin and back, Galehead and back, Garfield Ridge Trail to the Garfield Ridge Shelter.
I was up before six and caught an interesting pink and purple sunrise. It is a little windy and definitely chillier. The plans are for me to shoot out early, bag Zealand, and meet Ron at the junction below Guyot. Which is what we did. Along the way I nearly got frozen in my tracks crossing Little Guyot as the winds were whipping and the windchill must have been close to freezing. I though on my gloves, hat, and windshirt to allow a moment or two on this cool little summit. The route to Zealand has some interesting boulder hopping, a couple sneak peaks of rolling clouds and peek-a-boo views and then the summit! Yes, just like Nye in NY, this is a summit only Zealands mother could love, but I've always enjoyed the wooded summits, especially when they come during the only stint of low clouds for the whole backpacking trip...
Back under Guyot, I wait for my slacker partner. Bundled up, holding fast against the whipping winds, I watch skittering low clouds pound into the various mountains around me and cling to South Twin and the high Franconias. There is a certain high drama when the clouds are fast and furious, and the skies are crisp and deep blue overhead. Luckily Ron arrived before I was frozen stiff to the cairn and we lumbered off down the Twinway.
This is a very nice way to climb to 4900' and yet another fabulous summit. The clouds would sweep over the summit in droves, then depart and let the sun rain down. I converted down to a fanny pack and set off at a brisk pace for North Twin. Another nice quiet trail to a secluded peak with nice views back to South Twin and down to Galehead below.
By the time I made it back to South Twin the clouds had raced on through and the sky was crystal clear. Lunch, I met a hiker named Mike who was a Super Peakbagger! He had only 8 more peaks later that fall to complete his NH48 by 12 month, was a summer and winter 46er and Catskill 35er, done the Colorado 14's, had climbed 48 state highpoints, and was chipping away on the US100 highest. No wonder he fell fast asleep on the summit!
Well, the trip from the summit to Galehead Hut below was just plain rough. Something like 1200' in .9 miles is steep and deep. Dropping my pack on the porch felt like heaven! To gulp down some water and then sprint up to the summit of Galehead was a little much, and made me feel like quite the obsessed peakbagger, but what the hell!!! The climb up, down, over and around many little bumps en route to Garfield Ridge Campsite was the first real slog of the trip, and just plain rough! We hit the site just as a sweet sunset dripped down from the skies as we dripped into camp...
Pics of this leg are at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/190176220xJXpOd
Part two (the last day) continues below.......
Here follows a short (yes, short...) account of my first New Hampshire backpacking trip. A loop around the Pemigewasett Wilderness across rugged and beautiful ridges and over many peaks with some high altitude camping.
4 days, about 30 miles of backpacking, 8 miles of extra slackpacking peakbagging. And 11 4K's: Bondcliff, Mount Bond, West Bond, (Guyot), Zealand, South Twin, North Twin, Galehead, Garfield, Lafayette, Lincoln, (Little Haystack) and Liberty.
Travel day: (this is for the beer lovers only!) You know you're in for a good trip when you hit up the Longtrail Brewpub for lunch (and a delicious Hit the Trail, Double Bag, and Autumnal Brew) and dinner at the Woodstock Station (for a Pemi Pale, Pig's Ear, and Stout ... Black Bear Stout? ... I can't recall any names or places after the Pig's Ear
...DAY ONE -- September 11, 2004: Lincoln Woods, Franconia Falls, Wilderness, Bondcliff Trails.
Drop a car at the Flume, take the Shuttle over to Lincoln Woods, and hoist the ridiculously heavy pack on to my shoulders. I could feel every ounce of the four bottles of wine I had packed for the trip! Indulgences come with their prices ... like brownies, and cookies, grilled cheese sandwichs and quesadillas with salsa and gaucamole -- but are worth every wince along the way! (Hey, I did pack powdered milk for the morning coffee session...)
As a warm-up for an ambitious backpack, the Lincoln Woods Trail is superb. Soft, wide, flat, and straight as an arrow. Flew right by as we landed at the spur to Franconia Falls and the bridge into the Pemi Wilds. A gaggle of mountain bikes were parked by the bridge with signs for their Owl's Head Flags over the 48. Along the way we took a break by the roaring river and were treated to our first sighting of Bondcliff... or so I confidently told Ron.
The Falls were roaring and the rangers were warning and we enjoyed a lovely snack there basking in the sun. Once on the Wilderness Trail, again a delightful easy stroll for us on day one, we were soon treated to a bear crossing the trail a hundred feet in front of us. Good sized (250-300) and in the early afternoon. All I could think of was I hope he didn't smell what was in my pack! For he would be one happy bear.
Lunch at the Bondcliff trail junction of the Gaucamole and Blue corn chips, and then we started into our first bit of real climbing for the day. When we hit the first crossing of Black Brook, a tell tale path headed into the open woods and several illegal campsites. Venturing back another couple hundred feet we found a nice spot we could squeeze into and dropped our packs. We hung our bag by some trees with care, then headed down to make dinner on the high banks above the brook. First night is always tasty, and several glasses of wine, sesame miso soup, grilled cheese and smoked turkey on sourdough with some yummy roasted garlic mayonaisse hit the spot.
DAY TWO -- September 12, 2004: Bondcliff, Mount Bond, Guyot campsite with a West Bond Sunset trek.
Another perfect morning, and the Bondcliff Trail alternated between long flights of stone stairs and nice gentle grades all the way up to the boulder ladder and the first real nice view. I waited for Ron, snapping photos and growing excited to break through the small fringe of trees and on to the rock faces of the summit above. Ron had his snack and we were off. Ten minutes later we broke through the trees... WOW! What an awesome sight.
We dropped our packs below the summit, were the party of eight we saw on the trail were camped out, and wandered about savoring the views. West Bond is right in front of you, across from chasm, with the faint music of the Hellgate Brook below. The scars on her southern side glistened in the sun and created a stunning contrast with the incredible cliff faces dropping into the valley below us. Now I see why they warn you to stay East in foggy conditions! Yikes...
Pics of the trek up to Bondcliff:
http://community.webshots.com/album/189143565YTIiwF
After about two hours we dragged oursleves from this sweet perch and started the walk along the open ridge toward Mount Bond. You can't get tired of the views on this jaunt. Just amazing. The sun was warm on our faces and the breeze sweet and cooling. Not that it made the trek up to 4698' Mount Bond any easier! That last climb doesn't quit, but Bond's open summit is just as spectacular as Bondcliff, with views toward the Presidential Range and everything in between. Fantastic.
From the summit to the West Bond spur and finally the Guyot Campsite turn is a nice ridge walk through quiet woods and the occassional verdant green clover patch. And then comes the descent to the campsite! Drop, drop, drop! But, again, worth it. For the tough haul to this site is rewarded by a beautifully laid out labyrinth of stone paths and nice platforms. And especially when you hit it on the slowest night of the year! Only two other hikers were there so we decided to take the shelter.
Ron had opted out of the West Bond Sunset Tour, but after seeing we would have the shelter, and plenty of extra leg room, he rallied for a magical tour to this very special peak. Bondcliff was ruggedly awesome with its cliffs, Mount Bond stately as it towered above the whole southern Pemis, but West Bond in its isolation and thin summit profile has its own majestic presence. And to watch the sun crash into Franconia Ridge after basking in the alpenglow was the best end to a day in the Bonds one could ask for!
Bond and West Bond, all to ourselves, and then the shelter!? Especially when a cold front moved through with several hours of rain! I love this New Hampshire hiking!
Pics of this leg:
http://community.webshots.com/album/189422135KHkyHC
DAY THREE -- September 13, 2004: Guyot Shelter, Little Guyot, Big Guyot, Zealand and back, Twinway, South Twin, North TWin and back, Galehead and back, Garfield Ridge Trail to the Garfield Ridge Shelter.
I was up before six and caught an interesting pink and purple sunrise. It is a little windy and definitely chillier. The plans are for me to shoot out early, bag Zealand, and meet Ron at the junction below Guyot. Which is what we did. Along the way I nearly got frozen in my tracks crossing Little Guyot as the winds were whipping and the windchill must have been close to freezing. I though on my gloves, hat, and windshirt to allow a moment or two on this cool little summit. The route to Zealand has some interesting boulder hopping, a couple sneak peaks of rolling clouds and peek-a-boo views and then the summit! Yes, just like Nye in NY, this is a summit only Zealands mother could love, but I've always enjoyed the wooded summits, especially when they come during the only stint of low clouds for the whole backpacking trip...
Back under Guyot, I wait for my slacker partner. Bundled up, holding fast against the whipping winds, I watch skittering low clouds pound into the various mountains around me and cling to South Twin and the high Franconias. There is a certain high drama when the clouds are fast and furious, and the skies are crisp and deep blue overhead. Luckily Ron arrived before I was frozen stiff to the cairn and we lumbered off down the Twinway.
This is a very nice way to climb to 4900' and yet another fabulous summit. The clouds would sweep over the summit in droves, then depart and let the sun rain down. I converted down to a fanny pack and set off at a brisk pace for North Twin. Another nice quiet trail to a secluded peak with nice views back to South Twin and down to Galehead below.
By the time I made it back to South Twin the clouds had raced on through and the sky was crystal clear. Lunch, I met a hiker named Mike who was a Super Peakbagger! He had only 8 more peaks later that fall to complete his NH48 by 12 month, was a summer and winter 46er and Catskill 35er, done the Colorado 14's, had climbed 48 state highpoints, and was chipping away on the US100 highest. No wonder he fell fast asleep on the summit!
Well, the trip from the summit to Galehead Hut below was just plain rough. Something like 1200' in .9 miles is steep and deep. Dropping my pack on the porch felt like heaven! To gulp down some water and then sprint up to the summit of Galehead was a little much, and made me feel like quite the obsessed peakbagger, but what the hell!!! The climb up, down, over and around many little bumps en route to Garfield Ridge Campsite was the first real slog of the trip, and just plain rough! We hit the site just as a sweet sunset dripped down from the skies as we dripped into camp...
Pics of this leg are at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/190176220xJXpOd
Part two (the last day) continues below.......
Last edited:
