Backpacking the “Golden Weekend” at Baxter State Park

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blaze

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Scarborough, Maine
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Green Falls

Late September is my favorite time to backpack in Baxter State Park, and the rugged, spectacular Chimney Pond/Davis Pond/Wassataquoik Lake Island loop is perhaps my favorite backpacking route in the park.

I had not been to Davis Pond or Wassataquoik Lake Island since 2006, and so I felt like I was way overdue for a return visit. It’s been longer still since I’ve visited Chimney or Davis in the month of September. When the air turns cold, the birch leaves at higher elevations turn gold, and Chimney and Davis Ponds, spectacular at any time of year, are particularly lovely. Here is the trip report for our three-night outing.

Thursday 9/23 – Roaring Brook to Chimney Pond
We drive up, hike up to Chimney, set up in our lean-to, and then make our way around the pond and up the dry bed of the inlet stream, to scramble part way up a rock slide in the general direction of Pamola Peak – not with any intent of reaching or even approaching the top, but rather, just to enjoy the view back down on Chimney Pond and across the Great Basin. If you have never been here, the back side of Chimney is a lovely area to explore, and the effort-to-payback ratio is outstanding.

An after-dinner visit with the ranger brings bad but not unexpected news – 90% chance of precipitation the next day, 70% the following night. We try not to think about it. The rain starts overnight.

Friday 9/24 – Chimney Pond to Davis Pond
The day dawns grey and cool, and it’s still raining. We sleep in. We abandon plans to ascend via Hamlin Ridge (which was the majority’s preference, on a good day) or Cathedral (my personal plan – great fun, even with a full pack) in favor of the more sheltered Saddle Trail. Given the wet weather, low clouds, and slick conditions, it seems like the wisest choice. Temps never rise above the mid forties, and there is a steady, chilling wind driving the rain on the table land, particularly north of the junction with the Hamlin Ridge Trail. We use our poles to steady ourselves against the gusts, and we hope our pack covers won’t blow away.

I’ve made this trip between Chimney and Davis a half dozen times or so now, and of all those trips, today’s is the most unpleasant. Unfortunate, since two of the four of us have never been here before. But we play the cards that are dealt us. We all have the proper gear and layers, and so manage to avoid hypothermia, a real risk on a day like today.

We arrive at Davis Pond mid-afternoon, after a slick and painstaking descent off the plateau. We heat up tea and ramen for a hot, late lunch. The rain has eased to a light mist, but the day is still chilly and raw. My companions opt for a hard-earned afternoon nap. I make my way to the falls above Davis Pond, which I have never visited before. A somewhat difficult but very worthwhile side trip. The water level on the pond is a foot or two lower than in July 2006, when the beaver dam at the outlet was being actively maintained. This year, we find the dam breached and abandoned. Our lean-to looks like a Chinese laundry as we hang our soggy stuff out to dry.

Saturday 9/25 – Davis Pond to Wassataquoik Lake Island
We awake to see blue skies overhead! A bright, mild, partly cloudy day. We explore the Davis Pond area a bit before eating, saddling up, and heading for the island.

The descent out of Davis is always slick and difficult, and is even more so after a day of rain. We hear later that Chimney received an inch and a half. The crossing of Wassataquoik Stream is somewhat difficult. It can’t be rock hopped. The water is cold and running quick. It would be all too easy to slide off one of the slick boulders and go right in. But thanks to trekking poles and some good luck, we wade across without incident.

We enjoy a snack break at the Turner Deadwater and lunch on the dock at Russell Pond. Phil enjoys a brief visit with Ranger Brendan.

When we arrive at Wassataquoik Lake, we find the wind is blowing way too hard for paddling, but three of us paddle back across to the mainland and hike the short side trip to Green Falls. I have lugged a full-sized tripod up and over from Chimney and Davis, and now I am very happy to have it.

It’s my first return to the island since the “cabin” was torn down and a lean-to put up in its place. It’s a nice, roomy lean to, but I do miss the old shack.

Tim and I use my “Wal-mart special” folding camp saw to cut a bunch of dead wood on the mainland, and ferry it across in the canoe. Our first and last camp fire of the trip is a real treat. After Tim’s got the fire started, I go into the lake for a quick rinse. The air temp is mild, but the water is cold, and the cove where I go in is breezy. It takes me several fireside drams of Bushmill’s before I begin to warm up again. Our last dinner is particularly festive and filling, as we polish off the last of our dinner rations and adult beverages.

The moon is just past full when it rises behind clouds in the east.

Sunday 9/26 – Wassataquoik Lake Island to Roaring Brook
It’s cool and misting when we awake, so once again we opt not to go paddling on the mysterious, deep, clear waters of Wassataquoik Lake. We’re off the island by 9:00 and underway by 9:15 after unloading and stowing the canoe. We opt to return to Roaring Brook via the Wassataquoik Stream Trail, because the stream crossing is easier, and the trail’s flatter and more scenic.

The compulsory stop at Sandy Stream Pond reveals no moose, despite Phil’s best attempts to call in a bull. So, Tim is the only person to have seen moose on this trip (Saturday morning at Davis Pond, a cow and calf).

En route home, we enjoy a massive dinner of undercooked animal flesh and cold beer in Bangor, before heading our separate ways, and returning to our patient and understanding spouses, friends, significant others, children and pets. All of whom seem to think we smell funny.

I have had the good fortune to backpack in Baxter State Park many times. The park is like a lifelong friend. Just being there evokes fond memories of prior trips, of good times with good people in these remote and spectacular locations.

I am still finding new things to do, new places to explore. Being in the company of friends who are seeing these places for the first time renews my appreciation of this unique and precious resource, created largely through the vision and generosity of one man. As is our long-standing tradition, we do not complete our journey without drinking a toast to Governor Percival Baxter. Thank you sir.

Thanks also to my good friends Tim G, Pat J, and Phil P for their companionship on this scenic, challenging autumn weekend, and to the rangers Tom and Brendan at Chimney and Russell Ponds respectively, and to all the nice fellow travelers we met along the way.

A link to the full photo gallery will be posted soon.

thanks to Jazzbo for pointing out my erroneous dates.... middle aged moment.... =)
 
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Nice report. Sadly, I have not been back to Northwest Basin and Wassataquoik Lake in over three decades. But, I am leading a glacial geology field trip to Blueberry Knoll and Chimney Pond this Friday; 20-40% chance of rain in forecast, which does not sound too bad. :)
 
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