The Mountaineer's 10 Commandments

The Mountaineer's 10 Commandments

(Translated, condensed, and supplemented from Luis Trenker * , by Wolf Bauer. Copied by me from a photo posted by Melissa Bean on facebook).

1. You shall not undertake a mountain trip that you are not equal to. You must overwhelm the mountain, not the mountain you. You shall set yourself a goal that is equal to your ability but also be able on the other hand, to renounce that goal and turn back in time.

2. You shall prepare every mountain trip carefully with hand and head, no matter if you go alone, with friends, or guide. Your physical equipment shall be in as good an order as your gear. You should not overload your stomach with fancy, concentrated foods. Your head shall be as clear as the cold water of which you drink little.

3. You shall be as discriminating in your choice of climbing companions on difficult ascents as you are in selecting your outfit. Social custom has choked what little naivete we possessed in stating frankly the extend of our ability when it comes to things we like to do. A man's word is not good enough on the end of a rope.

4. It shall be your mountaineering ideal to celebrate your mountain - Sunday on a wooded foothill, with the same enjoyment with which you tackle the hardest wall the next time. You shall wander there, and climb here with the same sureness and complete mastery. You shall not become one of those you can't see the mountains because of the walls and chimneys.

5.You shall hold mountain camaraderie in high honor. Are you the leader, so be not imperious or stubborn, act not triumphantly superior or condescendingly gracious, but be considerate and patient. Teaching here and helping there. Remember the ability of the weakest is the yardstick of your decisions. Are you the one who is lead, then submit to the greater knowledge and ability, give your best and try to learn whenever possible. Good 'seconds' are as rare as good 'firsts'.

6. You shall not steal. You shall not take from others their mountain-peace thru unnecessary shouting and yodeling. The people you meet in the hills are not lonesome for your voice, and company. Neither shall you take flowers on the trail, for others have as much right to enjoy them as you have. You shall not destroy anthills, or nests, not even out of curiosity, nor see in a garter snake, snail, frog, chipmunk, woodchuck, or cony, a wild animal that must be exterminated. View the mountain country as a paradise into which you, Adam-man, have been invited; and keep it primeval and holy.

7. You shall value the shelter, cabin, camping spot, lodge or forest lean-to as you would your own house. You shall not waste wood, water, or boughs that have been placed there with much labor, but leave every place and object in the condition that you would like to find it yourself.

8. You shall be thorough and painstaking. Slovenly work on loose rock or with the rope bespeaks a disorderly mind. Carelessness is an underrating of the danger in the mountains, and is the unpardonable crime of the mountaineer. You shall test all important handholds in three directions in mountains such as the Cascades before trusting their stability. You shall leave your approximate whereabouts and intended duration of stay with someone who can come after you in case of accidents.

9. You shall cultivate a cool, calculating mind with a sound sense of proportions. You shall not take your climbing too seriously but acquire a sense of humor that will tide you over the trying places and conditions. Much as your rope is only a means to an end, so is your climbing only of benefit when you have profited thru it physically, mentally, and morally. You should have diverse interests in the mountains, so that you will not judge your trip by the enjoyment or disappointment of one factor.

10.You shall not desecrate the mountains thru speed-manias and record-crazes. You shall find their peace and soul.

* A Mountaineer who lived from 1892-1990

Interesting! Some things never change!

Very cool list. #10 is my favorite. Thanks for posting.

For the most part I think it's a cool list, but I think #10 is drivel. I'll NEVER come close to any speed records, but they don't desecrate the mountains.

I like #6 the best.

Tom Rankin said:

...You must overwhelm the mountain, not the mountain you.

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Mostly I agree, except for the bit above - total horsesheet - we are but flecks of dust, and have about as much influence on our Mother as a grain of sand.

And the yodeling - yup, way too much of that going on!

He sounds like someone who didn't interact with nature much on a daily basis.

Also, what's a cony?

cushetunk said:

He sounds like someone who didn't interact with nature much on a daily basis.

Also, what's a cony?

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I seem to recall it's another name for rabbit?

Just Googled it - pikas are sometimes referred to as cony. Pikas are little rabbits - personally have only seen them in the Sierra and US Rockies.

cushetunk said:

He sounds like someone who didn't interact with nature much on a daily basis.

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Wolf Bauer

Puma concolor said:

Wolf Bauer

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good lookin guy. I think I should play him in the movie.

Billy said:

For the most part I think it's a cool list, but I think #10 is drivel. I'll NEVER come close to any speed records, but they don't desecrate the mountains.

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Agree. I think #10 actually conflicts with the points in #9, if you read 10 first then 9. Also, my feelings re #1: skills and reserves should generally exceed planned climb, in case of SNAFU/FUBAR.

For me, any "instruction" presented as commandments automatically raises concern.

Chip said:

good lookin guy. I think I should play him in the movie.

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But, but, but ... if you play him, then who will play you?

As for the #10 thing, I'm more pro-peace and soul than anti-desecration. No controversy necessary.

Moses called...

10.You shall not desecrate the mountains thru speed-manias and record-crazes.

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WHEREAS, In the summer of 1935, Mr. Bauer and Mr. Jack Hossack made the first ascent of the Ptarmigan Ridge on the north face of Mt. Rainier, reaching the summit in two days; and

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Evidently, rapid first ascents do not have deleterious effects on mountains, unlike other things done quickly.

I'm not sure exactly what he meant, but #10 could be interpreted "there is a right way and a wrong way to speed-climb". Not really sure...

I thought the whole thing was fascinating, and worth a read. Agree or disagree as you see fit, it does not bother me either way.

Also to be clear, is was Bauer who translated the writings of Luis Trenker.

Tom Rankin said:

The Mountaineer's 10 Commandments

10.You shall not desecrate the mountains thru speed-manias and record-crazes. You shall find their peace and soul.

Interesting! Some things never change!

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I object to your way of experiencing MY mountains! RAWR!

I'd like to propose some amendments:

1. Thou shalt not confuse being equipped with being prepared.

2. Thou shalt not impose one's will on others.

Any others?

adamiata said:

2. Thou shalt not impose one's will on others

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I think it was written in the style of the day, and from a leader's perspective. We all impose and are imposed upon to some degree.

Like I said, take it for what it's worth to you.

I was glad to see LNT concepts, preparedness, respect for your fellow hikers and the mountains being espoused a long time ago.

Tom Rankin said:

I think it was written in the style of the day, and from a leader's perspective. We all impose and are imposed upon to some degree.

Like I said, take it for what it's worth to you.

I was glad to see LNT concepts, preparedness, respect for your fellow hikers and the mountains being espoused a long time ago.

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Telling other people what they should and shouldn't do pretty clearly implies disrespect for your fellow hikers. Kinda frames the rest of the list in an "I know better than you" light and ends it on a sour note.

But that's just what it's worth to me. Not that I expect anyone to care.

Tom Rankin said:

Also to be clear, is was Bauer who translated the writings of Luis Trenker.

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Hmmm ... interesting. Obviously, I have never seen this list before but am now curious about it. Google tells me Trenker was Tyrolian so if he was the author, the mention of the Cascades and the cony (western US) seem out of place. Perhaps Bauer made the list his own, so to speak, in the translation.

A quick search of this guy indicates he was more of a film maker and actor than a mountaineer although he was athletic enough to do the mountain stunts in the film so well he took over the lead role in a film. He was also described as an idealistic and nationalistic person and his films possessed those qualities. I see these items as par for the course for the times they were written; churchy, idealistic, romantic, hierarchical and Victorian (even though he was Austrian). Like Tom says, take what you want from them. I saw them as a mixture of common sense, respect for man/environment and the teachings of an ethic.

adamiata said:

Telling other people what they should and shouldn't do pretty clearly implies disrespect for your fellow hikers. Kinda frames the rest of the list in an "I know better than you" light and ends it on a sour note.

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Not sure where he says anything about being equipped rather than being prepared. Look at #2 again.

Are you confusing teaching with ordering? Remember, these were probably written in a time when people were not used to recreating because most people had so little leisure time. The Germanic languages and personal styles also tend towards directness rather than soft subtleties. LNT tells you what to do. The 10 Essentials tell you what to do. Cotton Kills tells you what not to do. People on VFTT tell you what to do. Not sure what the issue would be.

JohnL

one more

11. Thou shalt start the descent from the mountain no later than 1PM because $hit happens and you'll run out of time to save yourself from the werewolf

I find number ten very interesting in relation to this board in general. Ive lived in and climbed in the northeast, the Sierras and the CO rockies, that being said I have never seen such a list focused group as the VFTT. Myself I did the 4k's then stopped my recording of all ascents right after that. The only list Ive attempted since then and currently still focus on is the lower 48 14ers solo. This is just an observation, to each his own, the 4k quest was the best and I encourage anyone to do it, but it amazeses me the list that keep going, and going. LIke I said Im not dissing anyone here, but I do sometimes wonder if those list driven hikers, really taste each mountain for its offerings or just live for the ticking off of another summit.

sierra said:

LIke I said Im not dissing anyone here, but I do sometimes wonder if those list driven hikers, really taste each mountain for its offerings or just live for the ticking off of another summit.

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OK, a personal testimony. The years come and the years go. Things change. I know I'll never match the speed records of the young turks out there. But I thought it would be neat to add another round of the 48 and from July through October just hiking once a week Lauky and I did about 30 peaks and finished up the round. I no longer try to "overwhelm" the mountain. I just reel the peaks in. Never, ever have I enjoyed hiking more than I did this summer. In fact I'm sure that I shall forever remember this summer's "peakbagging" as one of the greatest times of my life. Just a man and his dog and the trees and the peaks and the wildlife and the breeze. Life is good.

Nice read. Good ideas. Thanks