Highpoint: Hawaii. Mauna Kea (13796 ft). April 20, 2011

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TrishandAlex

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Cut and pasted from http://www.trishalexsage.com
Accompanying pictures can be found there.
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**You good Views folks don't need the disclaimer below, that's for general readers of my blog.**

Disclaimer: I write of my family's experience ascending Mauna Kea, but this does NOT mean I suggest or advocate anyone else bringing their children past the Visitor's Center. Your actions are your responsibility. This is a trip report -- NOT an encouragement to follow suit. In other words, don't sue me if you fail to heed the warning posted at Mauna Kea's Visitor's Center and your child suffers from altitude sickness or worse.

Hawaii. Great state to have to visit in order to secure a highpoint. We've spent the last couple of weeks snorkeling, visiting various beaches, and enjoying waterfalls, gardens, and lava flows. Not a bad way to spend early spring.

Mauna Kea was our first highpoint above 10,000 feet. It was both difficult and easy; easy, because it was mostly a drive-up, and difficult, because there was no time to acclimatize.

We drove to Mauna Kea on a typical bright and sunny Hawaiian mid-morning. Here's Mauna Kea from Saddle Road (which was under construction, but still easy to navigate).

The Mauna Kea Access Road is found close to the 28 mile marker (coming from Hilo).

The access road to the Visitor's Center was steep and windy at times, but I never felt like I was in danger of panicking (which I sometimes do on auto roads and gondolas).

We spent the suggested hour at the Visitor's Center before ascending...this hour is supposed to help mitigate the possibility of altitude sickness. It probably does help, but not as much as, say, camping at 10,000 feet for a few days. Mauna Kea is difficult in this regard; one goes from sea level to near 14,000 feet in a few hours, and even experienced mountaineers can feel lightheaded and nauseous from the quick rise in altitude.

View of the road going to the summit from the Visitor's Center...

There's a large sign at the Visitor's Center listing the hazards...note the warning about kids below the age of 16. I point this out as a warning to others (again, I am not liable for other people's actions...parents, don't mistake this blog for an instruction manual).

Another warning, this time about the possible presence of invisible cows...

Now came the most frightening part of the trip (at least, for me). The eight mile drive to the summit from the Visitor's Center is harrowing and nerve-wracking for someone who does not appreciate sharp drop-offs and an unhealthy lack of guard rails. I felt as secure as I possibly could in our Harper's 4WD (the only kind of rental that is allowed on the summit road), but I spent most of my time driving in the center and hoping I wouldn't pass out.

The first five miles are unpaved and constitute the worst part of the ascent.

The latter three miles are paved and there aren't so many drop-offs.

The summit road brought us to the telescopes (Mauna Kea is one of the best sites in the world for astronomical observation)....

...but not to the summit itself. The true summit lies a quarter of a mile or so away; the trail begins a few dozen yards below the parking area.

Mauna Kea's summit...

Sage was not affected by the high altitude; she danced, hopped, skipped, and sang her way to the summit. I had to fuss at her to take it easy, I was worried she'd accidentally overdo it.

Alex, on the other hand, had a slight headache and felt a bit dizzy whenever she moved faster than a casual walk. Hugh stayed by her side and monitored her constantly; we were both prepared to grab the car and head down if we felt the need. Her headache never increased, however, and as long as she didn't skip, hop or jump (as Sage was doing), she was fine. Hugh and I both felt completely normal.

Sage ditched me about thirty feet from the summit and ran ahead. She was the first to reach the highpoint.

I arrived next and busied myself with photography.

Hugh and Alex arrived about five minutes behind me.

Alex felt much better after some rest and a bar of chocolate.

Still, I thought it best she stay behind with me while Hugh took Sage on a brief excursion to a nearby cairn.

The four of us lounged about for half an hour or so, enjoying the scenery and the fact that we had the summit to ourselves. Eventually, we saw a line of people heading our way from the parking lot, so we decided to descend.

Hugh played the celebrity on the way down...

The descent was uneventful, thanks to the magic of 4WD Low.

The girls enjoyed themselves, but Alex worried about getting a headache this fall while climbing peaks out west. I assured her that a) we would spend a lot more time acclimatizing out there before heading up and b) I would turn us around if she or Sage felt any symptoms whatsoever. I'm not comfortable continuing a long hike if there are any symptoms of altitude sickness. Hugh and I were willing to continue on Mauna Kea since we had the car for a fast descent, and Alex's symptoms never progressed passed a slight headache (which went away when she slowed her pace). On the long hikes this fall, if there are any symptoms whatsoever, we'll turn around.

Next stops: New York and Maine, summer 2011.
 
I'm not sure what's worse...the fact that you felt the need (and probably rightfully so) to put a disclaimer in a trip report...or the fact that it would take a scummy slip-n-fall lawyer about 5 minutes to get around it. Is there an emoticon for puking?

Anyway, cool trip. Glad to hear the headache was manageable. Zero to that high in a few hours must really do a number on some people.
 
Hi Billy,

Yes, it was fun -- we enjoyed ourselves. :)

The disclaimer isn't necessary for this crowd, but my blog is read by the general public, and that readership will undoubtedly grow with the imminent publicity for my book (which will start a few months before the book hits the shelves). Unfortunately, we do live in a lawsuit-happy country...don't want anyone to blame us for "encouraging" a parent to do something that the state of Hawaii says is unsafe.

I'm at a point now where I must keep legalities in mind, fortunately or unfortunately.
 
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Terrific report! Loved reading about, and seeing your pictures of, a place I'll probably not get to see firsthand . . . thanks!
 
Thanks for the great report. It's funny, it doesn't look anything like I had imagined it. Nevertheless, I'm jealous. I just asked my wife if she'd like to make it her next highpoint. It's not going to be the next one, but I don't think she'd mind going there. :)
 
Terrific report! Loved reading about, and seeing your pictures of, a place I'll probably not get to see firsthand . . . thanks!

Thanks for the great report. It's funny, it doesn't look anything like I had imagined it. Nevertheless, I'm jealous. I just asked my wife if she'd like to make it her next highpoint. It's not going to be the next one, but I don't think she'd mind going there. :)

Ed and DynamiteSr, you should go! It doesn't have to be an expensive trip once you're here. Lots of places to stay at all different price ranges, and you can skip the fancy restaurants and see the sights on your own (instead of paying for tours). Hugh and I haven't spent much money, with the exception of airfare.

очень приятно, Триш!

Gesundheit. :)
 
Interesting that Sage was not bothered by the altitude at all.

Probably because of the relatively rapid hike up (some of us began at the Visitor Center at the HP Konvention in August 2000), I had a fairly bad headache by the time I arrived at the summit.

Did your also visit South Point, the southernmost latitude of the United States, with its olivine green beach sands?
 
We did visit South Point! Hiked the four roundtrip miles to the beach -- it was a hot day and the cold ocean was refreshing. The girls were disappointed the sand wasn't neon green, but Hugh and I thought the color was pretty.

Hawaii's not a bad place to visit.
 
One of the best black sand beaches on the Big Island has got to be Punalu'u! It has some of the best textured black sand we found. Did you hike Kilauea Iki? Very short and easy hike, but it has one of the most fantastic smelling forests. It has a ginger forest that will just blow your olfactory senses away! VNP is fantastic, and they have rental cottages that are not expensive. Our last trip there was for two weeks back in 2006 and we are itchin to go back again.

When it comes to colored sand beaches, there is a very, very small red sand beach near Hana on Maui. You have to hike to it, and depending on the force of the waves the actual beach can be really small or just small. The sand was a bit more coarse than others and the grains rather large, and you would also sink in pass your ankles because it wasn't very firm, but it was well worth it. Might I say, you can also eat cheap on the Islands. Get a "plate lunch", generous portions of meat and two scoops of jasmine-styled rice. Best one on the Islands was at a local music and crafts festival held at a baseball field right in Hana. Wow, what food.

Can't wait to return, next trip back will be #5!
 
One of the best black sand beaches on the Big Island has got to be Punalu'u! It has some of the best textured black sand we found. Did you hike Kilauea Iki? Very short and easy hike, but it has one of the most fantastic smelling forests.

We went to Punalu'u right after visiting South Point. Girls went from green sand to black. Did not hike Kilauea Iki, though, and since we only stayed on the Big Island, we did not visit anything on Maui. Next time. :)
 
Cool trip report. Glad you and the girls made it up Mauna Kea! You are really picking away at the HPs. :)


The eight mile drive to the summit from the Visitor's Center is harrowing and nerve-wracking for someone who does not appreciate sharp drop-offs and an unhealthy lack of guard rails. I felt as secure as I possibly could in our Harper's 4WD (the only kind of rental that is allowed on the summit road)

Yeah... The most difficult part of our December 2009 "ascent" was driving a PT Cruiser rental up. :D But it wasn't that bad... Have definitely taken my little VW Golf on far worse roads.
 
Cool trip report. Glad you and the girls made it up Mauna Kea! You are really picking away at the HPs. :)...Yeah... The most difficult part of our December 2009 "ascent" was driving a PT Cruiser rental up. :D But it wasn't that bad... Have definitely taken my little VW Golf on far worse roads.

Thanks! We had a good time. :D

The road really isn't too terribly bad, I'm just a Big Giant Wuss when it comes to mechanical methods of ascent. I hate gondolas, ski lifts, and auto roads. I can walk a ledge without fear, since I have faith in my hands, feet and judgment, but I can't drive up an auto road with steep drop-offs without freaking out. It bothers me that I can't make the tires grip onto the rocks and prevent a free-fall descent should the car go over the edge. :eek:
 
I'm with you Trish - hated that drive, and my rental (even though 4WD) was a piece of crap.

Felt like being on the moon...really beautiful place.

As always, great report and pics!
 
Mtn.Roads

Be prepared for The Whitney Portal road to Whitney.Really not bad just watch for fallen rocks that they say they ''removed daily at 8 AM''. ''NOT''.
A nice smooth,and scenic road road just the same.;)
Part of this road was used in a police chase of Humphrey Bogart in a movie that the name escapes me. The car is in the film museum in Lone Pine that mainly is for all the Westerns made there back in the days of Roy Rogers and many many others. Well worth the admission. Sorry I digress.:eek:
 
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