Pitching a tarp

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werdigo49

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I have a 8x10 silicone tarp. It has one seam in the middle of the 10' side (so the seam is 8' long); along that seam are three tie tapes, at 2', 4', and 6'. (I presume they're on the INSIDE of the tarp... could be wrong about that!)

The few times I've used it I've been pitching it with the seam above my sleeping bag and the head end of the mosquito net tied to the tape that's 2' in. But I'm 6' tall, so (stretched out, centered along the 8' dimension of the tarp) I'm at most 1' in from the tarp edges (not accounting for the slope, from head to foot, of the tarp). It seemed logical to run the seam from head to foot and the tapes down the center line.

If I pitched it the other way, though, with the seam and its tie tapes running from left to right basically across where my waist would be as I sleep, I could move my head and feet in so each would be about 2' from the head-and-foot tarp edges. (The 10' dimension would be head-to-foot and the 8' side-to-side.) I'll have to rig something from which to hang the mosquito net because there aren't any tapes at (what would be) my head, this way.

Can anyone understand what I'm trying to describe here, and offer any advice? This is a Campmor green silicone tarp.
 
I have used a tarp as shelter for many years. So I can offer some advice.

Concerning the general pitching:
I reco to pitch the foot end with a height 1ft; and the head end with a height of about 2-3 ft. the head end height depends largely on the weather and winds - windy or stormy and it goes lower.

In general I pitch my tarp with the length being 8' and the width being 10' I'm 5'8" and I find a length of 8' to be marginally too short. The issue is not so much the length by the larger opening on the 2-3 ft high head side does not provide adequate protection. Normally I take my pack with rain cover and stand it up on that end to close the opening somewhat if the rain starts to blow in. On a side note I used to have a 9'x12' tarp that had fewer problems, but when it died I move to the lighter weight 8'x10'

Tarp Shape Optimization
If you constantly use the tarp pitched as I mention, you will notice that a rectangle is not the best shape tarp. In fact, you could remove about 1/4 to 1/3 of the tarp without any detrement in performance. Basically, you can cut out two triangles of fabric (one on each side). Most of the removed fabric is at the foot end. I did the cut to keep the existing grommets as new cormer grommets at the back end. I had to sew on a few loops where grommets were cut off. I wound up using the tarp like that for years.

Then I got this idea to sew the triangles back onto the other (head) end in a way to make crude doors to close the opening and voila. Same weight as the original tarp and more optimized performance.

It is an easy sewing job. If you are not a handly machine sewer or don't know one, you could get the job done at a flexible dry cleaner. I got mine done in Thailand for $3. :D ... and of course it requires some seam sealing, but I'm happy with the result.
 
Pitching it like a diamond gives me max coverage on my 8X10. I string a cord for a ridge line and tie the center of the netting to it front and back and use yellow string from the nettings corners to gromets along the edge of the tarp. I mostly need bug netting to cover my upper body. My lower body is in the sleeping bag on most occasions. I use more yellow string to tieouts from gromets as necessary for blocking wind or rain.
 
Thanks, John, Rickie, and Paul! Very helpful suggestions, and the video was really cool. I still have a week or so to experiment with this thing before my trip to Scotland, so as soon as it stops raining I'll grab the tarp, stakes, and poles and head for the back yard!
 
Speaking of rain, I've found if I build up stuff under the edges of my ground cloth so it's raised it up just a bit can allow any unexpected runoff to pass under or around you.

I try to pick good spots but unusually, which is usual, heavy rain can make a good looking spot a flood plane.
 
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