AAI mountaineering beginner course

AAI mountaineering beginner course review

hi climbing gurus,

I was looking for instructional courses on mountaineering and came across the 12 day AAI beginner course:
http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/mountaineering_leadership1/

In your opinion is this a good course to build mountaineering skills for someone who has hiked (no ice climbing, only indoor rock climbing) in the Whites in summer and winter for only 3 years or so. Eventually (maybe a few years hence ) I want to be able to climb higher peaks with an independent team (maybe after level 2/3 of this course).

For background, I did the Emmons Glacier skills class on Rainer with RMI earlier this year and had a blast learning about glacier travel, rescue etc. Pictures from the trip

Advice? Thanks
-Sid

AAI is a great outfit. I took their Advanced Ice course way back in 1990 - great learning on glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and ice in general.

My advice is to look at their whole selection of courses, and then call them up and talk with them to pick the best course for you. With some indoor rock climbing, and a prior glacier course, they may suggest something other than the beginner course, and you might learn more. In the beginner course, you might spend the first few days doing stuff you are already solid on.

Have fun!

SidS said:

hi climbing gurus,

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That's not me, but I've done a bit more, maybe, than you and have looked into these types of courses.

SidS said:

Advice? Thanks
-Sid

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If you can swing the time and cash, I'm sure they'd be very worthwhile. If you're single, now's the time.

AAI said:

Complete all three parts and receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

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I don't know enough about the certifications. Hopefully this is a standard that is widely recognized.

Thanks TCD and Chip. Will call AAI and find out more from them.

Reading through the itinerary, I like the idea of learning skills in typical real life environments. Being able to apply and practice learned skills in multiple environments (like the ones you want to pursue) is huge IMO.
A 5:1 group ratio with a max size of 9 seems reasonable but I would offer two things to think about.

1. If your group size is 6 or less you will have only one teacher/guide. The teacher/guide will likely make or break the course for you. If your group size requires 2 guides hopefully they'll pair guide personality types to compliment each other. It's reasonable to ask how many folks are likely to be in your course and whom the guides will be. It's also reasonable to ask for the guide/s bio's. (probably won't get that information tho) 12 days is a long time to be instructed by someone you don't like or respect.
2. Do you have a tolerance for diversity in group environments? Unless 4-7 of your buddies are signing up with you, you'll be eating, sleeping and working with that many strangers of varying ages, personalities, baggage etc. If you don't have a decent tolerance for folks that aren't like you, (i.e. whiners, lazy, aggressive, loud, introverted etc) could effect your experience.

Additionally, reading through the gear list it appears they don't provide anything. You need to have, purchase or rent everything. Understand this can be a huge revenue generator for these course companies.
You should specifically ask about equipment you intend to bring (if they will except it, getting it in writing via email would be helpful) to ensure they don't reject equipment upon arrival leaving you vulnerable to their rental or sales push.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying they're involved in unethical or questionable business practices in any way. I have never dealt with AAI or heard anything bad about them. Given businesses are in the business of making money it's prudent for the “buyer to beware”.

P.S. They list Handiwipes (aka mountain shower) under optional equipment.
It's not option IMO. Do your course-mates a favor and bring some.

Good luck and enjoy.

Craig said:

2. Do you have a tolerance for diversity in group environments? Unless 4-7 of your buddies are signing up with you, you'll be eating, sleeping and working with that many strangers of varying ages, personalities, baggage etc. If you don't have a decent tolerance for folks that aren't like you, (i.e. whiners, lazy, aggressive, loud, introverted etc) could effect your experience.

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I've taken a 3-day thing on Rainier with a guiding company (Alpine Ascents) in 2007 and also took a 6-day mountaineering course with them in Alaska in 2008. Both times I went by myself and didn't know anyone else going. Overall, it was fine and exciting to meet new people. Chances of running into an a$$hole is low, in my opinion, because signing up for a course and learning on the higher hills mainly attracts decent people.

The only "problem" I ran into were people who seemed to not do much training prior and their physical fitness was much lower than my own. It didn't make us have to turn around from some summit or whatever, just made for slower walking and a little frustration.

If you don't have people to go with, don't let that stop you. It was pretty awesome meeting new peeps and I've kept in touch with a few I've met.

Craig said:

Additionally, reading through the gear list it appears they don't provide anything. You need to have, purchase or rent everything. Understand this can be a huge revenue generator for these course companies.
You should specifically ask about equipment you intend to bring (if they will except it, getting it in writing via email would be helpful) to ensure they don't reject equipment upon arrival leaving you vulnerable to their rental or sales push.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying they're involved in unethical or questionable business practices in any way. I have never dealt with AAI or heard anything bad about them. Given businesses are in the business of making money it's prudent for the “buyer to beware”.

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I don't know.. I've dealt with Alpine Ascents, non American Alpine, but in my experience, I don't think you really need to worry about questionable business practices. The cost to rent gear from Alpine Ascents is low and before you go off to a course they have gear checks where they go through everything and make sure you have all that is needed. I think I didn't had absolute everything on the list and they said, "nope, that is fine, you can get away with item a, b, c, etc".. never told me I needed to go out and buy it.

12 days? That's pretty sweet! Have a blast.