Baxter State Park 1/5-1/8/13

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procook131

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
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Location
Stowe, VT
This journey really started this fall when we began our planning, and on October 30th our reservations were sent in to arrive in Millinocket on November 1st, the first day reservations would be accepted for winter camping. We planned to spend five days at Daicey Pond from December 22nd through December 26th to give ourselves enough of a window to summit the three four thousand foot mountains in Baxter. On November 1st, I was notified that the park is closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, so I would have to change our dates, which with my work schedule can be challenging. My chef was more than supportive and granted me the time off needed, so we were to head up and hike in on January 5th and hike into Daicey Pond cabins and set up shop.

After a seven hour drive from Stowe, Vermont, we booted up and started the walk in from Abol Bridge. One detail we missed was just how long Abol Hill is on the Nesowadnehunk Tote Road is. Even though packed by somewhat regular snowmobile travel by the rangers, it's no cake walk with forty pound packs. We had chosen to take the road so that we would also be able to scope out whether the Abol Trail and/or the Hunt Trail were broken out, so we could better calculate distance/time needed to complete the hike. Walking across Daicey Pond and seeing our cabin was very much a welcome sight after walking 8.4 miles in three and a half hours. Once in the cabin, we find that the propane gas powered light has no gas to power it, and we decided with our waning daylight to take another cabin and let the rangers know the next day if we saw them. After getting the wood stove fired up, the process of melting snow commenced, for re-hydrating food and the next day's drinking water. After dinner and getting settled, we were quick into bed and resting for the next day's assault on Baxter and Hamlin.

We awoke in the morning anxious to get started, and after a hearty breakfast of granola, coffee and Ramen, we were off. A 4.2 mile road walk starts the day to reach the Abol trailhead, and just after a mile up the trail we reached the slide. As we ascended, a light snow continued to fall, and visibility decreased. The Abol slide is certainly not for the weak, or faint of heart. Steep and icy, we questioned more than once changing over to crampons on the way up, knowing with full certainty that they would be required on the way down. Winds were light and variable, helping it to clear partially as we neared the top and started our traverse of the Tablelands. Nearing the summit after a few more hundred feet, the AT Northern Terminus sign was visible and Joe and I walked up together, two very proud monkeys. Hanging around was not an option, as winds had picked up substantially, and we geared up for the trek over to Hamlin. Crossing the Saddle is just one of the most beautiful places in the Northeast in any season, and it was no different that day. Clouds were being moved all over by the wind, the Knife Edge coming in and out view, Hamlin looked as if it were in the Himalaya, Karakoram or Patagonia; we were just in awe. The slight climb up Hamlin was uneventful, and the brisk winds kept us moving quickly back down to begin the walk back to Daicey.

I was pretty sure I had a good idea where the Baxter Peak Cutoff Trail went, but not before too long were in an ocean of trees, well above four thousand feet and watching the sun creep closer and closer towards the horizon. It had rained up high recently, and the crust was pretty firm, but we still found our fair share of spruce traps. Finally reaching the height of land near Thoreau Spring, we rejoined our tracks from the morning. Switched over to crampons and began the arduous descent down the slide, with the goal of reaching the bottom before sunset. Once back in the trees, we were happy to be off the mountain and no longer subject to the exposure we had been enduring for the better part of the day. The last six miles back to the cabin were definitely a challenge; the idea of warmth and nourishment kept me moving as I am sure Joe was thinking the same thing. After getting the fire roaring, water ready for the next day and dinner in our bellies, sleep came quickly. The next day on paper was just about as difficult as this one.

Pics from day one and two
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4187866456762.2143524.1287576204&type=1&l=2dfa729ff2

After lounging around longer than we usually do in the morning, we headed up the Nesowadnehunk Tote Road to the Slide Dam trailhead, making good time considering the previous day's exploits. We knew that a group had been up there on New Years Day, and they had mentioned how much snow was up there. The track was well broken out, and we only encountered four to eight inches of fresh snow from time to time. It was much colder, and nearing treeline the wind was howling. Made our last minute adjustments to make sure all skin was covered, and bee-lined it to the summit for a quick snapshot. Views were amazing all around us, but it was no place to be hanging out unfortunately. Another quick descent back to treeline was made, and we switched over to autopilot for the eight mile walk back to the cabin. The bourbon was screaming for us to hurry back!

After our normal routine of getting the fire going, dinner, hanging clothes to dry, etc., we were able to reflect a bit on what we had done over the past few days. Both of us having tramped all over the Northeast in all seasons, as well as the ADK Winter 46, NH Winter 48, nearing our NE111W completion, this place really tops it all. The seclusion I think really puts it over the top; we only saw four people in four days (the two rangers and two from the party of six walking out of the park). If you are looking for a challenge, you'll find it up in Baxter!

Pics from days three and four
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4189354613965.2143538.1287576204&type=1&l=ce0b483ec1

What a great trip, one that will stick with me forever. Thank you Joe for letting me con you into going to Baxter for the second time. Certainly could not have accomplished this one without you, not that I would want to! Already getting excited about our next trip up to Maine to finish it off!
 
No thanking needed. This was a team effort from start to finish.

I really enjoyed the Daicey Pond cabin setup. Once we got the stove fired, it was very comfortable even through the night when the temperature went down to 0 F. Daicey is "centrally located" but the 4+ mile walk to the trailheads was a little long. Overall, I think this is a good approach vs. the much longer hike to Roaring Brook or Chimney Pond, where the mountain hike is shorter.
 
Congratulations John & Joe :)

Thanks Yvon!

No thanking needed. This was a team effort from start to finish.

I really enjoyed the Daicey Pond cabin setup. Once we got the stove fired, it was very comfortable even through the night when the temperature went down to 0 F. Daicey is "centrally located" but the 4+ mile walk to the trailheads was a little long. Overall, I think this is a good approach vs. the much longer hike to Roaring Brook or Chimney Pond, where the mountain hike is shorter.

Thanks Joe; could not have said it better myself.

Greenies to you both!!

Thanks Steve!
 
Do not know what is more exciting.The fact that you did all 3 baxter peaks in Jan.!Or that you are drinking a beer from green flash[le freak].Several close friends of mine live in the hills of Noco where green flash is located[vista area].Thanks for posting.How bad was the Abol slide?Any comparable trails in the whites?
 
Do not know what is more exciting.The fact that you did all 3 baxter peaks in Jan.!Or that you are drinking a beer from green flash[le freak].Several close friends of mine live in the hills of Noco where green flash is located[vista area].Thanks for posting.How bad was the Abol slide?Any comparable trails in the whites?

They both are.....

I should have added pictures from my fridge! Being good friends with John and Jen Kimmich (Alchemist), Shaun Hill (Hill Farmstead), Sean Lawson (Lawson's Finest Liquids) and many local bar owners to boot, I have become somewhat of a collector of beer. There is always something good to drink for celebratory purposes!

Abol Slide was a little hairy, but mostly because of mixed surfaces. Nothing really comes to mind because of the length of ascent. The Macomb Slide in the Adirondacks is a bit similar, but a mere 1200' compared to almost 3000' on Abol.

Great report and pics!

Outstanding photos!

Thanks all!!!
 
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