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Had a fun and adventurous overnight at 13 falls this past weekend, and thought I'd post trail (and wildlife) conditions that may be relevant for others planning a similar trip.
I coordinated a trip with several friends, some of whom are seasoned hikers in the MIT Outing Club, others I'd never hiked with or knew to be beginner backpackers (or out of practice at least). Plan was to hike to ridge and assess whether to stay at Garfield or hike down to 13 Falls (my preference as I needed that section of Franconia Brook for redlining). After staying at the Tufts Loj in Woodstock and spotting a car at the Gale River trailhead, we got an "alpine start" at the Garfield Trail about 11:30. Trail was clear but muddy in places, with a couple moderate river crossings (big steps to rocks, hiking polls highly useful). Found kids sunglasses in the middle of a minor stream crossing and picked up to search for owner.
Reached junction with Garfield Ridge and dropped packs to tag summit. Found owner of sunglasses, which I'd left the trail junction sign stylishly wearing. Fantastic views and clear skies on one of my favorite summits in the Whites, plus a smattering of thru hikers.
Next, descent to campsite junction and spring to refill water and redline shelter spur. Still early in the day (4ish) so there was plenty of space at platforms and in shelter. However, the forecast was dauntingly cold and we still had plenty of daylight so we decided to stick with Plan A and head down the ridge to 13 Falls. Took our time with the notoriously steep and wet section just east and downhill of the shelter spur.
Franconia Brook was surprisingly well-maintained overall but very wet early on. Pooled water was the norm for a good quarter to half mile section of the trail just after the junction but then opens up to wider and well-graded pine needle bed trails with some scenic clearings. One river crossing of substance but an easy rock hop, then a muddy section for about the last 3/4 of a mile to the junction and 13 falls.
We arrived around 6 with plenty of daylight and were directed by the caretaker to the nearby overflow site, a stone's throw from the primary sites. He mentioned that a bear had visited the previous morning but this seemed only casually relevant - a funfact more than a warning. After cooking and nightfall, several of us went to the river to check out stars and even caught glimpses of a couple shooting ones (24 hours ahead of the main event, unfortunately).
We returned to our tent sites around 10 to the surprising news that a bear had just visited. It had wandered through sniffing a number of packs (even though all food was naturally in the bear box). It had even torn through the vestibule section of my tent's rain fly and punctured the netting (no one in tent at the time) to get to my backpack, which it dragged into the woods. Naturally this was upsetting, as my wallet, keys, and iPhone were all in there, along with a number of other pieces of less essential gear. We managed to find my pack despite the dark, about 50' away downhill. Amazingly it was undamaged. I suspect the scent of food or at least a bear's hopeful association of packs and food was the reason it dragged it away, though there may have been residual crumbs in one of the pockets. Who knows, I was just thrilled to have it back and in one piece. I put my and my girlfriend's packs head height in a tree, fully realizing that this would do only a little to deter a determined bear.
We settled in for the night uneasily and had fitful sleep, interrupted a few times between 10 and midnight as the bear returned, apparently making a circuit through all the tent sites. It was completely unphased by the presence of two dogs at other sites (the feeling was clearly not mutual for the dogs!) as well as plenty of humans, and their feeble attempts to drive it away clicking trekking poles together. My friends said they thought it approached the tents, brushing against them, but didn't try to enter any of them. It had to be driven away by our heroic night guard, Mike Kokko, who resorted to throwing rocks at it. This seemed to be the only thing that would get it to go away.
It seems the rocks, or clear lack of available food, eventually drove the bear on to some other appointment that didn't involve terrorizing campers. We got some (fitful) sleep but found out in the morning that we were lucky - another late arriving group tried to hang a bearbag and lost half their food before they realized what was going on and chased the bear away.
After breakfast we managed a quick climb up to Galehead the next morning. Perfect weather again, plus a kind croo member who gave us jelly for our jelly-less PB&Js.
Descent was rocky but very well maintained, including a relocated mile long section which avoids the river (and all crossings), making this a safter but somewhat less scenic trail.
I've hiked the AT and seen many brazen bears, especially in rest areas along the Shenandoahs. 13 Falls is well known for bear visitors but I'd never heard of one so bold and persistent. It was basically like a large raccoon - but I could see this becoming dangerous if it were late in the season and the bear suddenly came into the realization that it could flatten the guy throwing rocks if it wanted to. We also heard that Guyot had had some bears - totally unheard of in prior seasons from what I understand.
I"d be curious to hear if others have had similar experiences at 13 Falls. Is it getting worse?
I coordinated a trip with several friends, some of whom are seasoned hikers in the MIT Outing Club, others I'd never hiked with or knew to be beginner backpackers (or out of practice at least). Plan was to hike to ridge and assess whether to stay at Garfield or hike down to 13 Falls (my preference as I needed that section of Franconia Brook for redlining). After staying at the Tufts Loj in Woodstock and spotting a car at the Gale River trailhead, we got an "alpine start" at the Garfield Trail about 11:30. Trail was clear but muddy in places, with a couple moderate river crossings (big steps to rocks, hiking polls highly useful). Found kids sunglasses in the middle of a minor stream crossing and picked up to search for owner.
Reached junction with Garfield Ridge and dropped packs to tag summit. Found owner of sunglasses, which I'd left the trail junction sign stylishly wearing. Fantastic views and clear skies on one of my favorite summits in the Whites, plus a smattering of thru hikers.
Next, descent to campsite junction and spring to refill water and redline shelter spur. Still early in the day (4ish) so there was plenty of space at platforms and in shelter. However, the forecast was dauntingly cold and we still had plenty of daylight so we decided to stick with Plan A and head down the ridge to 13 Falls. Took our time with the notoriously steep and wet section just east and downhill of the shelter spur.
Franconia Brook was surprisingly well-maintained overall but very wet early on. Pooled water was the norm for a good quarter to half mile section of the trail just after the junction but then opens up to wider and well-graded pine needle bed trails with some scenic clearings. One river crossing of substance but an easy rock hop, then a muddy section for about the last 3/4 of a mile to the junction and 13 falls.
We arrived around 6 with plenty of daylight and were directed by the caretaker to the nearby overflow site, a stone's throw from the primary sites. He mentioned that a bear had visited the previous morning but this seemed only casually relevant - a funfact more than a warning. After cooking and nightfall, several of us went to the river to check out stars and even caught glimpses of a couple shooting ones (24 hours ahead of the main event, unfortunately).
We returned to our tent sites around 10 to the surprising news that a bear had just visited. It had wandered through sniffing a number of packs (even though all food was naturally in the bear box). It had even torn through the vestibule section of my tent's rain fly and punctured the netting (no one in tent at the time) to get to my backpack, which it dragged into the woods. Naturally this was upsetting, as my wallet, keys, and iPhone were all in there, along with a number of other pieces of less essential gear. We managed to find my pack despite the dark, about 50' away downhill. Amazingly it was undamaged. I suspect the scent of food or at least a bear's hopeful association of packs and food was the reason it dragged it away, though there may have been residual crumbs in one of the pockets. Who knows, I was just thrilled to have it back and in one piece. I put my and my girlfriend's packs head height in a tree, fully realizing that this would do only a little to deter a determined bear.
We settled in for the night uneasily and had fitful sleep, interrupted a few times between 10 and midnight as the bear returned, apparently making a circuit through all the tent sites. It was completely unphased by the presence of two dogs at other sites (the feeling was clearly not mutual for the dogs!) as well as plenty of humans, and their feeble attempts to drive it away clicking trekking poles together. My friends said they thought it approached the tents, brushing against them, but didn't try to enter any of them. It had to be driven away by our heroic night guard, Mike Kokko, who resorted to throwing rocks at it. This seemed to be the only thing that would get it to go away.
It seems the rocks, or clear lack of available food, eventually drove the bear on to some other appointment that didn't involve terrorizing campers. We got some (fitful) sleep but found out in the morning that we were lucky - another late arriving group tried to hang a bearbag and lost half their food before they realized what was going on and chased the bear away.
After breakfast we managed a quick climb up to Galehead the next morning. Perfect weather again, plus a kind croo member who gave us jelly for our jelly-less PB&Js.
Descent was rocky but very well maintained, including a relocated mile long section which avoids the river (and all crossings), making this a safter but somewhat less scenic trail.
I've hiked the AT and seen many brazen bears, especially in rest areas along the Shenandoahs. 13 Falls is well known for bear visitors but I'd never heard of one so bold and persistent. It was basically like a large raccoon - but I could see this becoming dangerous if it were late in the season and the bear suddenly came into the realization that it could flatten the guy throwing rocks if it wanted to. We also heard that Guyot had had some bears - totally unheard of in prior seasons from what I understand.
I"d be curious to hear if others have had similar experiences at 13 Falls. Is it getting worse?
