Crampon/Axe Training

Apologies if this is the wrong forum. I am hoping to connect with someone who could help me with proper crampon and ice ax technique. I have done 11 of the NH 48 in winter, but haven't had the need yet to use my crampons and axe. I have read about techniques and watched many youtube videos, but would love to find someone to give me a hands on lesson. I am in Lincoln, NH every other weekend hiking (this weekend I will be doing the Wildcat peaks). Thanks

Tuck

Try one of the local guide services: http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=links

You can join the American Alpine Club and make use of their training sessions at a price that is extremely reasonable, or even free. Membership comes with insurance, BTW

AMC-NH has an Advanced Winter Wilderness Travel workshop coming up at the end of January at Cardigan Lodge. The CT Chapter has an intro to Winter Mountaineering around the same time in North Conway. AMC-NH also runs two different glacial travel workshops that cover some introductory mountaineering skills, but those aren't on the schedule yet. AMC staff run a few guided Mt Washington hikes that do a workshop on day one with a climb on day two. List here: http://activities.outdoors.org/search/index.cfm/action/main/

I learned from books. There is two that will teach you all you need to know. Ivon Choiurnards " Climbing Ice" and the classic of all time " Freedom of the Hills". Outside of that, Hire a guide for a day, I'd go with IME in North Conway.

I bought 'Freedom of the Hills' not long ago and the beta is seriously out of date to the point of being dangerous. Whilst learning to become an Outdoor Ed. teacher in 2005 and onward I took courses with the Alpine Club of Canada (UIAA) and l'École nationale d'escalade du Qubec (UIAA and AIGM (headquarters in Bern, Switzerland and moniter of international mountaineering organisations]) and I urge you to take courses offered by recognised organisations such as the AAC.

I've been curious about ice axe use as well. Are any of the YouTube videos out there pertinent to the Whites-type mountains? Most of the ones I found were in far more powdery and open terrain like out West or in Europe. If anyone has viewed a video they know is accurate based on courses taken/training/personal experience please share.

Gremlin said:

I bought 'Freedom of the Hills' not long ago and the beta is seriously out of date to the point of being dangerous.

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Knowing that many folks swear by "Freedom" as the authoritative source, I'm curious as to the specifics of the out of date and/or dangerous information in there. (No axe to grind; I don't own the book...)

Too much to go into here, mostly about belaying, rapelling and rescue. On one course our instructor called, 'Wait!' (everyting stops). He was told, 'That's how my uncle taught me to do it.' For the love of Goodness, please take an accredited course - UIAA, AIFGM. Alpine Club of America will provide you with the beta.

Basic crampon skills for not technical (steep) ice can be safely learned by doing. Some of the harder things about crampons hiking is putting them on late (if your on a steep slope this can sux) and learning not to cut your pants with a spike! Ask me how I know I think a lot of it, again, non technical terrain, is learning how it affects your step and how to recognize the importance of more points on the ice means greater stability and learning how to adjust your gate when walking in them.

I think a trail like IIRC (I don't have by guide book) Blueberry Ridge going up Whiteface could be a great one to learn on. Lots of lower angle slabs and a few steeper pitches are present. But this will depend upon how you feel, just a suggestion.

Ice axe: Getting technical training always best but you could also hike up a slope your comfortable with and do some controlled self arrests. Don't go to high at first, you will be amazed how fast you can get going. And don't use your good clothes, they can get serious abrasions (as can your azz) )))

Not to mention banging yourself in the face pulling out your axe. Duct tape over gaiters helps, but for safety, for the love of God, take an accredited course.

Gremlin said:

Not to mention banging yourself in the face pulling out your axe. Duct tape over gaiters helps, but for safety, for the love of God, take an accredited course.

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I guess my insight is different in regards to taking courses. Look they are great and you can learn alot from courses, but it seems like alot of people think thats manadatory to be safe. I learned to winter hike, rock climb and ice climb, without ever taking acourse or hiring a guide. Granted, I did my homework and read alot of books. I think practcal experience is what counts, get out there and practice. I can remember walking the base of Cathedarl ledge with my rock climbing rack and a book on anchors and protection, just setting gear. I lead the first rock climb I ever climbed, lieing to a stranger that I was an experienced leader, just to have a partner. Get an axe, get some crampons and go out and practice, find short hills that have safe runouts and do it. If you dont die in the first year, your good to go.

sierra said:

Get an axe, get some crampons and go out and practice, find short hills that have safe runouts and do it. If you dont die in the first year, your good to go.

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Can I suggest you practice without crampons first?

Tim

bikehikeskifish said:

Can I suggest you practice without crampons first?

Tim

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Glissading or practicing self arresting should ABSOLUTELY be done without crampons, good point.

Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills may not be the best book to get detailed information on modern rock and ice climbing safety techniques. However, it is an absolutely sound reference to learn the basics of crampon technique and using an ice ax for self belay and self arrest.