Most Challenging Mountaineering Routes

Besides Huntington, what would you say are the most challenging mountaineering routes in the Whites? I am looking for seriously challenging, but also not vertical ice climbing.

Flume Slide Trail, North Slide on Tripyramid...

if you want serious adventure....

how about the Old Lincoln and Adams Slides?!

Jkrew81 said:

Besides Huntington, what would you say are the most challenging mountaineering routes in the Whites? I am looking for seriously challenging, but also not vertical ice climbing.

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It depends exactly what you want then. Do you want routes accessible by trail, or not accessible by trail? If you want off trail routes, I'm sure you can easily find some pretty hairy things to suite your needs.

How about The Captain?

-Dr. Wu

I am looking for pretty much anything. Next weekend I am trying out Great Gully Tr up Adams and from what I hear it is pretty crazy. I am just trying to get some other ideas.

Hey Jkrew81,
I take it you liked that King Ravine trail we met on.
If so, I'd make the same suggestion as SJ and go with the Flume Slide. It's tough enough during the summer months, so winter has got to be a serious challenge (wouldn't do it solo though).
Haven't done the slide to Tripryamids yet, but the reports make it sound interesting.

What about Six Husbands? There was a thread on that one a couple of months ago. Might be worth a look too.
Good luck,
Bill

bringin back fond memories

dr_wu002 said:

It depends exactly what you want then. Do you want routes accessible by trail, or not accessible by trail? If you want off trail routes, I'm sure you can easily find some pretty hairy things to suite your needs.

How about The Captain?

-Dr. Wu

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wow!! check out the other photos while on the link!!!!!
and they're off!!!!

post'r boy said:

wow!! check out the other photos while on the link!!!!!
and they're off!!!!

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Well, is the SW face challenging enough for this guy!?

I looked at all the other pictures. They're great... can't wait to head out there myself.

Dr. Wu

Flume Slide is steep in winter but IMHO easier in winter than summer (done both). I don't have any better suggestions however

Webster Cliff always has looked pretty tough to me, right across Rt. 302 from the Willey House. No, not the trail.

Not for amateurs like me, obviously.

Tramper Al said:

Webster Cliff always has looked pretty tough to me, right across Rt. 302 from the Willey House. No, not the trail.

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Did one of the gullies on Webster Cliff as a start to a winter Prezzie traverse in the early 80s. Easy class III rock with 2 or 3 pitches of easy ice.

Might be a little more snow and avalanche hazard right now...

Routes listed in the ice climbing guidebooks.

Doug

North Percy

The old Underhill route.

the gullies on mt willard (think thats the one) - cinema gully, shoestring gully, are supposed to be pretty challeging - never did them but see them when doing willy's across the street. I think they are rated NE2 or NE3. When you say "mountaineering" - this is what i assume you mean. King Ravine, Great gully, I think six husabands borderlines on technical in winter - but not sure.

Funny you should mention Flume Slide...

Sherpa John said:

Flume Slide Trail, North Slide on Tripyramid...

if you want serious adventure....

how about the Old Lincoln and Adams Slides?!

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As you've probably been reading I'm going out Sunday most likely to Moosilauke or Flune/Victory. I WAS condidering the Flume Slide up VictorySprings down loop till most people strongly advides me against it... now that I hear some (like yourself) saying it's one of the most challenging climbs in the Whites (especially with the snow we've had lately) I'll definately consider another route.

CaptainJim said:

As you've probably been reading I'm going out Sunday most likely to Moosilauke or Flune/Victory. I WAS condidering the Flume Slide up VictorySprings down loop till most people strongly advides me against it... now that I hear some (like yourself) saying it's one of the most challenging climbs in the Whites (especially with the snow we've had lately) I'll definately consider another route.

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If you only have summer experience with this trail, I wouldn't necessarily convey that experience to winter. The trail looks nasty in the summer but with crampons, it's just steep. Also, with the snow cover as of late, I wouldn't hesitate to go up it, but that's just me. I'm not an avid risktaker or ice climber.

From what I hear.. Flume slide in winter, especially now, requires one to have 2 ice axes and crampons as well as other Mountaineering experience such as self arrest techniques.

Sherpa John said:

From what I hear.. Flume slide in winter, especially now, requires one to have 2 ice axes and crampons as well as other Mountaineering experience such as self arrest techniques.

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IMO, Flume Slide can often be done with a single mountaineering axe as opposed to double vertical-ice axes -- particularly at this time of year when there is plenty of snow as opposed to early season mixed rock-and-ice. I'd rate it NEI2. Awareness of some technical climbing issues including avalanche and protection would be a good idea.

Now I'm all confused????

Jasonst said:

If you only have summer experience with this trail, I wouldn't necessarily convey that experience to winter. The trail looks nasty in the summer but with crampons, it's just steep. Also, with the snow cover as of late, I wouldn't hesitate to go up it, but that's just me. I'm not an avid risktaker or ice climber.

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I guess I'll just have to look and decide for myself. I do have winter experience not tons but I've done Washington twice this winter (once successful, once turned back because of weather). I have plastic boots, crampons and 1 piolet. Have never taken an ice climbing course but have good judgement and no machismo. meaning I haven't lived over 50 years by being afraid to "turn" a climb (or a solo deep technical wreck dive which I do a lot of). The mountain (and the wreck) will still be there tomorrow.

If it's just a matter of "steep" I'll take it slow and easy. If however there's excissive risk of avalanche, ice falls (I have no helmit), or whatever I'll defer to the side of safety and go elswhere or take Liberty up & down.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

Capt. Jim

Not to chime in overmuch, but I would recommend a helmet for any significant gully climb, particularly late-season like now. With things warming up, rock and ice fall becomes a serious hazard. You might be surprised how little a rock it takes to knock you down and off, let alone give your skull a core-shot.

Yeah, I was seriously considering that...

el-bagr said:

Not to chime in overmuch, but I would recommend a helmet for any significant gully climb, particularly late-season like now. With things warming up, rock and ice fall becomes a serious hazard. You might be surprised how little a rock it takes to knock you down and off, let alone give your skull a core-shot.

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Funds $$$ are short but I was deciding whether to get another ax or a helmit... I decided it should be the helmit... I don't have much of a brain to protect, but it's all I got ... plus my wife & kids probably want me to come home Sunday nite

Capt. Jim

Challenging Mountaineering

One thing to consider is that the term Most "Challenging" Mountaineering, does not always equate to technical difficulty of an ice climb.....

Total commitment (exposure, distance/access to support and/or help, self sustainance), environement & conditions (temp., wind, snowfall etc.), and the style of the ascent plays a big role.

One can climb a vertical wall 1/4 mile from a highway in 2 hours, and be back in the car by noon. Although physically challenging (the climb), it hardly tests mountaineering skills.


the wall.......