Boot / Crampon Questions

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Tom Rankin

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Passing along from a friend:

My wife and I are hoping to attempt Mount Washington via the Jewell Trail in Mid-March if conditions permit.

I would like to throw out the following question that I anticipate will have a wide spectrum of responses:

I recently purchased a pair of Lowa Mountain Expert leather insulated mountaineering boots. Needless to say, they are rather clunky to walk in and nowhere near as comfortable as my insulated all purpose winter hiking boots (Hi-Tech, 200 Grams insulation).

My all purpose winter boots do not feel supportive enough for my Grivel G-10 crampons due to the long points (they do however feel very secure on the mountaineering boots). My all pupose winter boots do, however work great with my Hillsound Crampon Pros (shorter points but not to be confused with Hillsound Crampon that is similar to Microspikes - the Crampon Pro is similar to the Kahtoola KTS that is popular in the Catskills).

My question is given that my winter boots and Crampon Pros are sooooooooo comfortable, are they adequate for hiking in the Northern Presidentials or should I put up with the weight and clunkiness of mountaineering boots and G-10 combo? I definitely want to hike comfortably without sacrificing safety.

Note that the winter boot/Hillsound Crampon Pro combo has worked like a charm in the Catskills when Microspikes are not enough, but I understand that the Northern Presidentials is entirely different.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.
 
Here's one opinion...

Mt. Washington via Jewell (out-and-back) is less challenging terrain-wise than the northern three (Jefferson, Adams, Madison). There are some big northern-presidential-esque rocks on the Trinity Heights Connector, but it's not like Adams. I rarely bring crampons in the Whites these days, although sometimes to the Presidential Range. I've probably brought them 5 times out of many dozens of trips and used them only 2-3, and needed them only once (Airline was solid water ice for an extended period of time - and not above treeline.)

HTH,
Tim
 
Same as Tim. I did Madison & Adams in winter hiking boots (NOT mountaineering), and I did Monroe, Washington, Jefferson in ultralight winter footwear. IMO, crampon technique is more important than the rigidness of the shoes (i.e. don't try to front point everything, keep your feet flat to keep more points engaged).

That being said, a BIG lesson learned ($$$) is to make sure that you have your crampons setup for flexible footwear. I probably broke 2 pairs of linking bars on my Petzl crampons trying to use them in "rigid mode" on soft shoes before i learned that there was a "pivot mode" where the toe/heel pieces could flex around each other. Many of the other manufacturers (I think both BD and Grivel) will sell separate flexible bars which I highly recommend.

If they weren't so expensive, I would be replacing my 12 pt Petzl Vasak with the Katoolah/Hillsound "mini crampons". IMO, 90% of the time full crampons are more of a liability than a benefit on the icy trails where I typically use them (e.g. tripping hazard, snagging on pants, rolling ankles). I would still require real crampons for any actual steep snow travel.
 
Pick your boots based on the temperature that day. Odds of needing full crampons on the Jewell trail are extremely low. The Ammo (your most likely descent if you're in a hurry to get down or if you just feel like making a loop) has a couple of spots near the stream where some kind of traction is often advisable, but I can't recall a time when MicroSpikes weren't enough.
 
Ask again in March and you'll probably get a better answer.
 
While conditions are subject to vary in wide spectrum, I'd say your HH crampons would be adequate with your Hi-Tec boots. That being said, I use either Micro-Spikes or Full-crampons on the Presi's. I tend to do loops and use the Ammou trail, which can be really icy, on routes like that, I like Crampons, but I'm by myself so I have a high margin of safety to work with. While I love spikes, they are not adequate on blue ice anywhere. The best advice in the end would be to follow conditions and read trip reports on NETRAILCONDITIONS.COM closer to your trip. That route is popular and your likely find a good report.
 
I hike alone as well and am far more cautious than most on this page with traction. I wear my crampons (also a G-10 user with a regular non-techincal Winter boot) often on steep terrain, whether packed snow or ice of any kind. When ascending I don't generally find I absolutely need them as much as descending for whatever reason. I've never slipped in my microspikes but I much prefer the crampons on steep descents. If I know I will be on a very steep grade for awhile (which really is only a handful of trails) I almost always go with crampons even when most do not. Just feel more confident. I also prefer crampons even on modest grades when there is a few inches of unconsolidated powder on top of ice. Microspikes never seem to get a proper grip in those conditions because the teeth aren't long enough to penetrate the powder AND get a proper grip on the ice below. (I can thank a dislocated shoulder for that lesson).

As Sierra pointed out, I carry both traction devices for the reasons listed. It is much easier and faster on easy grades to cruise in microspikes. When it is steep and/or very icy crampons are the right tool. The hybrid spike/crampon offerings give you some of the benefits of both, but some of the drawbacks too. I'd rather have the two separate choices.

As BigNSlow also pointed out, crampons are often a liability too. It is very hard to walk at a decent pace in crampons without heavy concentration. Very easy to catch a point and take a spill. In very rocky terrain where the snow is not well packed they often hook on the rocks in undesirable ways, forcing ankles and legs into awkward positions with the potential for injury.
 
Its important to note that standard Kahtoolas microspikes and Hillsound trail crampons look similar but there are distinct differences. The Hillsounds spikes are more pronounced and they are rigidly attached to small plates that keep them oriented so that perpendicular to the base of the boot. In general they have distinctly better traction on water ice. Kahtoolas are great for packed snow but far less secure on ice. When I swap between them I avoid ice with the Kahtoolas that I have no issues with the Hillsounds. I also feel that the Velcro strap over the top of the foot on the Hillsounds is a major improvement.

Do note Hillosound sells a Kahtoola lookalike called the freestep so be careful when ordering.

There is a learning curve for "real" standard spike length crampons. Many folks tend to stumble on occasion as they are not used to picking up their feet. They also trip themselves up. In general I don't recommend someone starting out on a major hike with full crampons if they don't have some practice. I have done the Ammo Jewell loop several times in winter with Hillsound trail Crampons but obviously its highly dependent on conditions. If there is hard boilerplate, Hillsounds may not be enough but generally if its boilerplate is present its probably appropriate to have an ice ax with leash and the skills to use it which is something best practiced.
 
Somewhat on topic: I replaced my K microspikes this year because I lost one last year (the points were getting a bit short anyway from repeated sharpening). The newer spikes have a new design rubber base that is thinner but ribbed (for added strength I assume). I never had a problem with keeping the older ones aligned, but the new ones of the same size on the same boots keep sliding off the toe. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
As others said, Jewell, Micro's, Ammo likely full crampons although you'll see many in Micro's. I'm another soloist & I have G-12's. If I was just bringing one pair, I'd bring the crampons.
 
Hi Tom,

IMO, wear the winter boots you are comfortable in and carry both traction devices.

I use G-10's (infrequently) on a variety of boots from Koflachs, soft winter boots (many) and once in trail runners. Soft shoes are not ideal, but G-10s handle the flex to some degree.

With more snow cover, the G-10s will be less necessary. I have found the crampons "necessary" for me on large icy stretches on various trails in the Pressies including Lions Head and Airline, even spots on Valley Way when severely iced (bulges in spots). Ammo Ravine can be much easier in spots with crampons, but conditions more than trails will be the determining factor. It's usually spring, fall, or low snow winters when I prefer them. I personally would prefer to have them with me than not when coming across those sketchy 20-40 foot long ice bulges or steeper, smooth, iced trails. That said, if I am carrying two traction devices, it's microspikes and G-10s. I do not have something in between those two.

YMMV
 
Tom, IMO, the Hillsound Crampon Pro is going to cover 95%+ of what you'll run into in the Presi's...it's damn near a full crampon and if you were strapping to a slightly stiffer boot, probably covers 98%. But as Sierra said, keep an eye on conditions as you get closer to the hike. This is one weird winter and seems to have more rain/freeze cycles than big snow. When in doubt, carry both. BTW, I have exactly the same traction as you (HS Pros and Grivel 10s, my G10s have a step in heel) and the Grivel's haven't been out of the bag since i got the HS.
 
For Washington via Jewell, your Hillsound/soft boot combo should cover all cases except copious snow, for which mountaineering snowshoes are most effective - or very high winds, in which front points help you hold your own on boilerplate while crawling.

However, an ice ax (with associated self-arrest skill) is key in the event of boilerplate ice or consolidated snow on the slopes. We periodically have cases wherein a simple misstep on a not-especially-steep slope turns into a vicious, often fatal thousand-foot slide. In the case of the route you're contemplating, such exposure exists alongside the Great Gulf, and to a milder extent almost anywhere on the summit cone.

Alex
 
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