Tuck
Member
I am seriously thinking about hiking Rainier in May with RMI Guides. Anyone have any experience with this outfit? Thanks
Tuck
Tuck
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Rainier
- Thread starter Tuck
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I've enjoyed quite a few adult beverages at Whittaker's Bunkhouse/Tavern on RMI HQ property. Does that count? 
Both of my actual climbs, however, were with IMG just down the road. DC Route in 2012 and Emmons Glacier Route in 2016.
May is a little on the early side with some unstable weather and lower success rates. Both of my (successful) climbs were in mid-to-late July.
Also, RMI does the DC as a two day climb and it's a bit of a march. IMG and AAI both do it in three and it's a little less rushed.
If you're gonna do it, get your spot ASAP. I got the e-mail from IMG right after Labor Day that the 2017 dates had been announced and they go fast.
Both of my actual climbs, however, were with IMG just down the road. DC Route in 2012 and Emmons Glacier Route in 2016.
May is a little on the early side with some unstable weather and lower success rates. Both of my (successful) climbs were in mid-to-late July.
Also, RMI does the DC as a two day climb and it's a bit of a march. IMG and AAI both do it in three and it's a little less rushed.
If you're gonna do it, get your spot ASAP.
I got the e-mail from IMG right after Labor Day that the 2017 dates had been announced and they go fast.
hikerbrian
Active member
I've heard both quite positive and quite negative reviews. The experience seems to depend on what the participant wants to get out of it. If you are fit and want the highest probability of summiting the mountain with minimal logistical work, RMI (or another guiding service) will probably be great. Where I hear mixed reviews is from people who want some flexibility in the schedule, who want a personal alpine experience, who want time to learn and practice; in short, people who want an individual experience and some autonomy tend to have a bad time with a group guide service (RMI included).
None of this is first hand, I have had no interactions at all with RMI, so take it for what it's worth.
None of this is first hand, I have had no interactions at all with RMI, so take it for what it's worth.
Chip
Well-known member
We did a 2 day mountaineering class at the end of May and the 2 night summit at the beginning of June with IMG. I think we were the 2nd, maybe 3rd, group to summit that season. So May is way early. Loved IMG. Food and facilities were excellent. We heard RMI does not do much about food for their clients. One in our group would not have made it up and another would not have made it down without the help of very dedicated IMG guides.
RollingRock
Active member
I used RMI 40 years ago so it's quite possible things may have changed but reading the previous comments...maybe not. If you are fit and don't have any means to climb up with some friends, then RMI will get you up there. You will be marching up the mountain...more so on the first day up to 10,000 feet for your overnight.
Someone said they don't give you much food and I would agree with that. Pack a few food items in your pack. The ascent in the dark while watching the sun rise is amazing. At the top, you have an option to rest or take that time to tag the actual summit. You won't have much time to rest if you tag the summit but then again, you'll be resting to a certain degree once you begin you descent.
I felt very safe with the group. If I were to do it now, I'm older, I would probably look into the 3 day option.
Someone said they don't give you much food and I would agree with that. Pack a few food items in your pack. The ascent in the dark while watching the sun rise is amazing. At the top, you have an option to rest or take that time to tag the actual summit. You won't have much time to rest if you tag the summit but then again, you'll be resting to a certain degree once you begin you descent.
I felt very safe with the group. If I were to do it now, I'm older, I would probably look into the 3 day option.
OnAClearDay
New member
Went last year with RMI and had an excellent experience with knowledgeable and experienced guides. Ratio was 1 guide to 3 or 4 clients. I came solo and was lucky to be teamed up some great fellow climbers, both on a skill and personal level (which is good since you are roped together after Camp Muir where RMI has their own hut). For my early July climb there were a total of around 20 clients - 5 of which didn't summit due to lack of conditioning or undisclosed medical conditions.
Certainly one of the tougher climbs I've done but very doable if you're in good shape. Winter hiking in the Whites and ADKs as prep helped, especially packing big and heavy, going with mountaineering boots, climbing in darkness with just a headlamp... I found the day of training on the mountain good and useful (self-arrest techniques, being roped up, crampon use, etc); food and liquids were more than sufficient throughout (in fact I used some the food for a climb of Mt Hood the day after returning..)
With any guided service YMMV, in my case I was lucky that it all came together perfectly (great guides and fellow climbers, perfect summit day conditions, personally in good shape and injury free, clear about my expectations which was to have a 'real mountaineering' experience where summitting would always be optional). I could easily see that if any one of these components was 'off' the experience could become less than positive. Some of that can be controlled pre-climb with proper training both physically and mentally, some less so when on the mountain like not handling the altitude well or being roped up with a guide or fellow climber who aren't on same page as you.
I believe May climbs tend to be a little trickier weather wise with a greater frequency of teams not summitting - but then again a climb 2-3 days prior to my climb failed to summit due to bad weather...
Good luck!
Certainly one of the tougher climbs I've done but very doable if you're in good shape. Winter hiking in the Whites and ADKs as prep helped, especially packing big and heavy, going with mountaineering boots, climbing in darkness with just a headlamp... I found the day of training on the mountain good and useful (self-arrest techniques, being roped up, crampon use, etc); food and liquids were more than sufficient throughout (in fact I used some the food for a climb of Mt Hood the day after returning..)
With any guided service YMMV, in my case I was lucky that it all came together perfectly (great guides and fellow climbers, perfect summit day conditions, personally in good shape and injury free, clear about my expectations which was to have a 'real mountaineering' experience where summitting would always be optional). I could easily see that if any one of these components was 'off' the experience could become less than positive. Some of that can be controlled pre-climb with proper training both physically and mentally, some less so when on the mountain like not handling the altitude well or being roped up with a guide or fellow climber who aren't on same page as you.
I believe May climbs tend to be a little trickier weather wise with a greater frequency of teams not summitting - but then again a climb 2-3 days prior to my climb failed to summit due to bad weather...
Good luck!
You should also be able to receive a list directly from RMI of previous clients for referral purposes. I would also throughly research the guides individually and speak to past clients that used those specific guides.
sierra
Well-known member
I'm just curious, I take it, it's a two day climb. What's day 2 like in terms of distance and time?
OnAClearDay
New member
I went on the the standard 4 day RMI package up the DC route. The day 3-4 likely varies depending on conditions, this was my early July climb:
Day One - meet afternoon for meet&greet and gear check
Day Two - Training day - hike to snow fields at about 8K from the 6K PA
Day Three and Four - Mid Morning Climb to Camp Muir at 10K, arrive around 3-4pm. Rest, repack pack for summit, dinner. 6-6:30p -9:30 "sleep" Then breakfast, gear up and all teams roped up & moving by 11p (we had full moon which was a nice bonus). 4 designated rest stops enroute, summit around 6, depart after 30-45min, return to PA by mid afternoon including a short stop at Camp Muir again to repack.
I believe teams normally leave Camp Muir later, like after midnight, but last year the NW spring had been very hot and dry (following a winter with very little snow) so the guides wanted to maximize time on the night snow before too much day-time softening occurred..
jfb
Active member
When I did the DC route on Memorial Day weekend, 1983, we left Camp Muir shortly after midnight, got to the top of the cleaver at sunrise, continued to the summit and were at the Sea-Tac airport before dark.
Chugach001
New member
Why, why Rainier with guides? Working towards something? There might be better options depending on your goals.
