Fatality on Mt Washington in Huntingtons Ravine

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https://www.wcvb.com/article/childrens-hospital-researcher-dies-on-mount-washington/26430196

I am surprised that this is the first time I have seen a news article as it occurred on the 10th.

This was mentioned on Facebook awhile back with limited details. I was skeptical because I had seen nothing on the "usual" places, which seemed almost impossible nowadays. This stuff usually filters out in hours, not days or weeks. Pretty strange how it stayed under wraps this whole time. Could it be foul play was suspected and releasing could possibly have affected an investigation or apprehension?
 
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He had two ice axes? I wonder if he wasn't hiking but ice climbing free solo? Perhaps the "ice axes" were ice tools?


He was in Central Gully, and slipped when about 300 feet above the bottom. Usually that's a snow climb with one "bulge" of ice. He may have been carrying a small second "axe" (likely a technical ice tool) for added safety getting up the bulge, and using a standard ice axe for arrest the rest of the time. Reading between the lines, he slipped somewhere below the ice bulge. It's not clear if he was actually using both axes at that time.
 
Today's Boston Globe article fills in some to the details:
https://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2...-washington/oljSyc0OZmEfvpiaCEVB2K/story.html

He was climbing Central Gully with a partner and continued his climb when his partner turned around due to ice conditions. The partner alerted authorities when he didn't return to the car. Scratches on the snow indicate that he made an unsuccessful attempt to self-arrest during a fall.
 
I hate turning around! Drive all the way up there, get all excited about it, often get up early, and then things don't go as planned. It's rarely easy making that call, but dang, there is something nice about being alive.
 
We speculated that govt shutdown may have had an impact in terms of the delay.
 
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Very good read. Thanks for posting. It never ceases to amaze me how much "myopic intelligence" exists in the world -- people who are often very well educated yet do not have an ability to appreciate that certain activities/issues are likely more complex and challenging than they otherwise want to believe. They often make decisions based on emotions and feelings rather than facts and analytics and when someone challenges them with facts and analytics they dig in further rather than engage. People want things to be simple and accessible and the fact is that in most cases they are not. Same with politics in fact.
 
I found this to be a most excellent line (my emphasis):

“So experience or no experience — no matter what your level of experience, there is a certain point where what’s challenged is your decision-making. Both ends of the spectrum — experienced and non-experienced — you see people making mistakes that can lead to tragedy.”
 
Kudos to Bill Aughton for calling it like it is. Mental mindset and surviving in the Mountains is a subject that could certainly be discussed at length. Anyone care to elaborate on Ullmans misuse of crampons. I’ll be honest I am not quite envisioning what he did improperly based on the cited article.
 
Kudos to Bill Aughton for calling it like it is. Mental mindset and surviving in the Mountains is a subject that could certainly be discussed at length. Anyone care to elaborate on Ullmans misuse of crampons. I’ll be honest I am not quite envisioning what he did improperly based on the cited article.

Buckles should be on the outsideof your foot with any Crampons, gaiters or snowshoes. Buckles on the inside can trip you. The inside of your feet and legs should be smooth and free of catches
 
Buckles should be on the outsideof your foot with any Crampons, gaiters or snowshoes. Buckles on the inside can trip you. The inside of your feet and legs should be smooth and free of catches

Thanks for confirming. I thought that might be what they were saying but wasn’t sure.
 
BTW, In winter gear its a real PITA to rig up straps and buckles properly. Just for the chuckles I looked at my MSR snowshoes that are marked right and left. If I install them per MSR the loose strap ends point inwards.
 
Then you will want different snowshoes to go up Central. :rolleyes:

Also, important survival tip from that article: If Mr. Aughton is attacking you, don't play dead - just say things he disagrees with and he will leave. Playing dead will only intensify the attack. :)

I personally do not find this funny. I have known Mr. Aughton for over 30 years and he is a well respected member of the climbing community. Your comment smacks of elitism and is derogatory. If you do not agree with him then I suggest you take it up with him personally rather than flaming him on a public forum.
 
I personally do not find this funny. I have known Mr. Aughton for over 30 years and he is a well respected member of the climbing community. Your comment smacks of elitism and is derogatory. If you do not agree with him then I suggest you take it up with him personally rather than flaming him on a public forum.

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that was meant as a joke. TJ doesn't flame from my experience. He can correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, Bill is a legend in the valley. He taught my WFR class many moons ago. Tons of respect for him and what he has done.
 
BTW, In winter gear its a real PITA to rig up straps and buckles properly. Just for the chuckles I looked at my MSR snowshoes that are marked right and left. If I install them per MSR the loose strap ends point inwards.

That's odd. Buckles on both my Posilocks and Paragons are on the inside with the strap ends falling to the outside of the shoes.
 
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