Kayak Car Roof Rack Question

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DayTrip

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I am in the process of getting a kayak and roof rack for my car (Subaru CrossTrek) and had a question on the rack itself. Are the cross bars required to mount essentially usable for all brands of roof racks or is that a brand specific situation? The reason I ask is that my Subaru dealer only offers a 1 kayak rack (I think they carry Thule but don't quote me on that). I am thinking of having them install the cross bars for me provided that doesn't limit my rack options at another store or dealer. Would prefer to have a "factory" mount so there are no warranty issues. Never had a roof rack for anything and really have no clue how it all works. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I am in the process of getting a kayak and roof rack for my car (Subaru CrossTrek) and had a question on the rack itself. Are the cross bars required to mount essentially usable for all brands of roof racks or is that a brand specific situation? The reason I ask is that my Subaru dealer only offers a 1 kayak rack (I think they carry Thule but don't quote me on that). I am thinking of having them install the cross bars for me provided that doesn't limit my rack options at another store or dealer. Would prefer to have a "factory" mount so there are no warranty issues. Never had a roof rack for anything and really have no clue how it all works. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated. Thanks.


I am on my 5th Subaru, a Forester. I have used Thule roof racks on all of them, mainly to carry a canoe and also lumber from Home Depot. There are lots of accessories for Thule rack systems. I thought about having the Subaru dealer install their rack system on my newest Forester, but the cost was pretty high and I didn't like it as much as the Thule. I doubt that any of the roof rack systems from various vendors are compatible with each other. And the Thule rack system I have installed is bomb proof and will carry a considerable load. It is also lockable.

I like the crossbars on the Thule systems better than those installed by Subaru, but it does look like you can use some Thule accessories on those dealer installed crossbars. But...I don't think they are anywhere as strong as the rectangular cross-section Thule bars.
 
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I have a Thule + Hull-A-Port XT rack attached to the OEM rack on my 2015 Forester. I went with the Thule towers to attach to the OEM rack, rather than OEM crossbars, because I already had bike trays and other attachments for the Thule rack itself.

If you're starting from scratch, you can go either way - it's ultimately a matter of what-do-you-do when you no longer own the car, and how much to you want to save the rack. Most of the time, it's a matter of changing the clamping system(s), and there are bountiful options from Thule for pretty much every car made. Subaru, being a favorite for outdoors folks, is likely to have an above average collection of accessories and options that work with it.

I can send you picture(s) if you want... Don't have any handy.

Tim
 
Yakima

Others have spoke of Thule, I'll hold up the Yakima side.

I have a Yakima rack which I have used with 3 different vehicles (Dodge Intrepid, PT Cruiser, Subaru Legacy).

Yakima uses a "clip" which is the interface between the rack and the roof of the car. The "clips" are sold in pairs for about $35-$40 per pair, and since you need two pairs (one pair for each crossbar) that will set you back about $75 just for the clips.

"Clips" are tailored to how they interface with specific points on specific make/model/year vehicles, so while a particular "clip" can work with various vehicles (for instance, the one for my 2009 Subaru Legacy says it will also work for some model/years of Camero, Mustang, Tiburon, Infinity, Mini Cooper, Saab, and certain other Subarus). But I was never fortunate enough that the "clip" for the vehicle I already had worked for the vehicle I was about to buy, so I've had to buy 3 sets of "clips", one for each vehicle.

The rest of the rack system worked fine on each vehicle.

I'd suggest going to a place where each brand is sold, tell 'em what you want to do, and have them explain how that rack system will work for what you want to do.

Good luck,

TomK
 
Never had a roof rack for anything and really have no clue how it all works. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated. Thanks.

Check out the Rack Warehouse website for loads of information about roof racks, in one convenient location.
 
I own my first Subaru, the Impreza model. I learned the hard way what not to do. I first went to Kittery Trading Post to check out the kayak racks, I figured they were very knowledgeable and I knew nothing. They advised me to get the cross bars from Subaru as they were cheaper and then mount the Thule holders on those. So that's what I did and they work just fine, I saved a few bucks. Here's the problem that I came across when the dust settled. The cross bars from the dealer do not have locks on them. Basically if you know that and have the right wrench, you can take the whole system right off the car. I don't really leave my car loaded with my kayak anywhere, so I can live with it, but I can see where it would be an issue if you were traveling for a length of time and wanted to leave your boat on the car unattended. Go with the complete Thule set up, its quality and will do what you need it to do.
 
I have a CrossTrek and also a Thule roof rack. I bought cheaper (square) cross bars and got 2 pairs of generic J-shaped kayak carriers for something under $60 off Amazon. I have driven with two double kayaks locally in Adirondacks without a problem.
 
As for locks, and as it true with most locks, they are a deterrent to keep honest people honest. I did have a rack forcibly removed from a car (one with the roof "clips") once... the clips are thin metal to sneak between the edge of the roof and the door seals. They can be bent enough to remove, locks and all.

That said... the towers mounted to the Subaru factory rack are IMO are more impervious to theft.

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There is a lock cylinder on the front of the Hull-A-Port to prevent it from being removed from the rack as well.

Tim
 

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The only thing I would add to all this: The square Thule crossbars and feet add aerodynamic noise at high speeds. I leave my system on year round and above 65 or so mph, the noise is noticeable, but not intolerable. There are a couple of rack systems out there that claim to be more aerodynamic, the crossbars have a a winglike-streamlined cross section. I think the Subaru dealer installed systems are like that, but they don't look as strong to me.
 
There is noise for sure. But I already owned the Thule rack and a pile of accessories so I kept it and got new feet, replacing the towers that fit the previous car.

Tim
 
There is noise for sure. But I already owned the Thule rack and a pile of accessories so I kept it and got new feet, replacing the towers that fit the previous car.

My bars are close to 40 years old and I've purchased several different models of towers over the years to fit on different cars, but now I only buy wagons with raised rails. I think the newer models use aero bars and would be quieter. In any case, they are so quick to install/remove that I only install them when I plan on using them.
 
Remember, noise equals drag equals lower fuel economy especially on smaller vehicles. It annoys me that folks on long trips to places like BSP leave the racks on with nothing on them. They are removable for a reason. I realize that to some folks its an image thing, leave the racks on and that implies that the owner is active outdoors person.
 
Thanks for all the information and website references.
 
Remember, noise equals drag equals lower fuel economy especially on smaller vehicles. It annoys me that folks on long trips to places like BSP leave the racks on with nothing on them. They are removable for a reason. I realize that to some folks its an image thing, leave the racks on and that implies that the owner is active outdoors person.

Or a storage thing. I have nowhere to put my Thule Xsporter so it stays on my truck.
 
Remember, noise equals drag equals lower fuel economy especially on smaller vehicles. It annoys me that folks on long trips to places like BSP leave the racks on with nothing on them. They are removable for a reason. I realize that to some folks its an image thing, leave the racks on and that implies that the owner is active outdoors person.

Sometimes it's not an image thing. The clips that attach to the rails are not exactly a snap on and off affair, depending upon the system used. They take time and every time you do this, you run the risk of scratching the paint, or worse. Plus, sometimes the exact position on the rails is important for fitting a canoe, etc. I leave me cross bars attached and remove whatever accessory attachment is no longer needed.
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As for drag, I think the empty rack's affect on mileage is insignificant. With a canoe on top, not so much. Also, drag is a complex thing. Ever notice how some pickup trucks drive around with their cargo area gate down? Not so much anymore, probably because they found out that wind tunnel tests showed that, in fact, the gate being down attributed to increased drag.
 
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My wife likes to kayak and has 2018 Subaru Crosstrek. We got it with factory roof rails, but not factory cross bars. We opted for Thule Wingbars as I used to have Thule Square cross bars and I found they hummed loudly at highway speeds. Wingbars are super quiet in comparison. We also purchased Thule Rapid Crossroad Foot Pack 450R for mounting Aero bars to the factory roof rails which work fine.

My wife went to REI and purchased Yakima kayak lift system (whose name I forget) and was not happy with it so we took advantage of REI return policy and returned it. She purchased the Thule Hullivator lift system instead which after some trial and error she is now quite happy with. The only problem I have with our current set up is REI recommended 60" (160cm) Thule Aero bars which in my opinion stick out too much on the Crosstrek. Especially with the Hullivator. There is clear danger of someone whacking head on Hullivator in driveways or parking lots.

I'm mulling over whether or not to return the 60" Aero Bar to REI and trade it in for the 53" (135 cm) Aero Bar since she purchased it on REI recommendations (they are supposed to be experts right???). I think REI rep picked the 60" over the 53" thinking better too long than too short. I find the Hullivator clears the car body in down position by plenty to allow for shorter 53" crossbar.

Not being super strong she Hullivator enables her to car top her boat by herself which enables her to go kayaking solo. We only purchased one Hullivator on idea that if there are two boats there will be two people to car top two boats.

We take the Hullivator off when not in use as it risks someone bashing head on it and it makes lots of wind noise at highway speeds. Fortunately it is relatively easy to mount and dismount once you get the hang of the procedure. It never occurred to me to take photos of the process so I have none to offer just now. I'll post some photos of our setup a bit later.
 
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For what it's worth, we have a Subaru Forester and Subaru outback. Both have the Yakima bars that haul canoes, kayaks, bikes, ski box, and the occasional ladder or lumber. Just buy the appropriate parts so it's a system.
 
My wife likes to kayak and has 2018 Subaru Crosstrek. We got it with factory roof rails, but not factory cross bars. We opted for Thule Wingbars as I used to have Thule Square cross bars and I found they hummed loudly at highway speeds. Wingbars are super quiet in comparison. We also purchased Thule Rapid Crossroad Foot Pack 450R for mounting Aero bars to the factory roof rails which work fine.

My wife went to REI and purchased Yakima kayak lift system (whose name I forget) and was not happy with it so we took advantage of REI return policy and returned it. She purchased the Thule Hullivator lift system instead which after some trial and error she is now quite happy with. The only problem I have with our current set up is REI recommended 60" (160cm) Thule Aero bars which in my opinion stick out too much on the Crosstrek. Especially with the Hullivator. There is clear danger of someone whacking head on Hullivator in driveways or parking lots.

I'm mulling over whether or not to return the 60" Aero Bar to REI and trade it in for the 53" (135 cm) Aero Bar since she purchased it on REI recommendations (they are supposed to be experts right???). I think REI rep picked the 60" over the 53" thinking better too long than too short. I find the Hullivator clears the car body in down position by plenty to allow for shorter 53" crossbar.

Not being super strong she Hullivator enables her to car top her boat by herself which enables her to go kayaking solo. We only purchased one Hullivator on idea that if there are two boats there will be two people to car top two boats.

We take the Hullivator off when not in use as it risks someone bashing head on it and it makes lots of wind noise at highway speeds. Fortunately it is relatively easy to mount and dismount once you get the hang of the procedure. It never occurred to me to take photos of the process so I have none to offer just now. I'll post some photos of our setup a bit later.

Interesting info. Thanks. I didn't even realize cross bars came in different widths. I assumed it was a "standard" size. I guess that's my first blunder already: I'm having the Subaru dealership cross bars (I think Thule) installed THU and I don't know what length the are. Guess I'll know soon enough. :)
 
I guess the good old river rat days of drilling four holes in the roof and bolting the rack to the roof is no longer acceptable? ;)

I knew a lot of hard core white water folks that had that badge of honor on their vehicles.
 
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