South Twin - I beat the clouds

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H

HikerBob

Guest
Hadn't been up to the Whites in a couple of weeks and I was getting withdrawals. I'd canceled a trip the previous weekend because of forecasted rain only to read trip reports saying how great it was. So, this weekend come hell or highwater I was going!

It didn't take more than a few yards before I found my first Trillium so I had to stop and photograph it. Then I spotted some more, better looking so stopped again... then again... I decided I could not keep doing this or I would not even make it to the bridge before the day ended.

The tributary and main crossing higher up were not bad although higher water would make these quite a challenge. There are large boulders placed for the main river crossing but there is one large gap that could use another boulder put in. Probably was one at one time but high water or ice may have shifted it. I played it safe and crossed a little way above the boulders getting wet boots but not wet feet.

The trail above the crossing that was an icy stream for much of the way in January was now pretty dry and easy going. I could see clouds starting to form over the twins and asked nicely that they wait until after I had summited.

With the foliage still not full there were some nice peeks up to the North Twin spur and the sun glistened off of one large cliff. At the turn near the base of the slide there is a great open spot to take a breather and watch the river while contemplating the heights above.

I once again found a pile of feathers, the remains of a bird kill, that I assumed to be the same one I had seen in January. I assumed that they had been buried under fresh snow and only recently uncovered with the thaw.

I found the first meager trace of ice at around 3,000ft and ice and snow slowly became more prevalent as I pushed on for the ridge. I had brought both crampons and snowshoes this time to be prepared for any eventuality. As it turned out I would need neither, just a little extra caution in a couple of tricky spots.

I made it to the Garfield Ridge trail a few minutes under book time! A lot faster than my last climb. Stopped for a quick snack then pushed on. The Garfield Ridge trail from the junction to the hut has quite a few little ups and downs then a steepish climb up to the hut. The ice and snow was patchy and no real issue.

When I reached the hut spur I decided to forego a visit and press on to the summit. The forecast called for increasing cloud and afternoon showers so I wanted to try and make it to the top before the rains came or cloud stole the views.

From here on up would mark new territory for me and I had read that the climb up to South Twin was pretty hard going. I was feeling good though and was still making good time, I had reached the hut in two minutes over book time! I don't think book time factors in snacks and a hundred photographs though.

The short, but rather steep, rocky drop down to the sag was ice and snow free and, thankfully, pretty dry. From here on it would be all up in a pretty straight line to the summit.

The trail alternated between ice, snow and bare ground. In a couple of spots crampons would have made things a little quicker, easier and safer but they were bare bootable with care. Repeatedly putting them on and taking them off would have been tiresome. Perhaps I'll design some boots with retractable spikes...

The ridge of packed snow on the trail could be climbed with ease in some places and in others it had softened enough to throw the occasional post hole in the mix. Views started opening up behind me. First of Galehead and Garfield, then the Franconia ridge. Finally, at a water bar close to the summit there was probably the best view of Owls Head and the upper Pemi with the encircling Franconia and Garfield ridges.

The thickening clouds were holding just above the higher peaks and the cool temps, in the 40's, made for great views without too much haze.

The grade eased off and the trees got scrubbier. I then saw a rocky knob with a small cairn on top. I knew I was close. A few more yards and there was the rocky summit. It was 11:21, I had slowed some on the steep climb but still made it in 30 minutes over book time. Good going for me!

I dropped my pack and started snapping pictures in all directions. South Twin has some of the best views going in my book. Washington was cloud bound as was the summit of Carrigain but most everything else was in the clear. Ominous dark clouds and rain squalls were dotted around so I decided North Twin could wait for another day.

Conditions on the summit were fantastic. A few breaths of wind and NO BUGS! I had hiked up in shorts, shirt and light fleece vest (more for padding the pack straps than for warmth) and figured I'd need a jacket on the summit. The jacket stayed in the pack, it was that nice.

After taking the obligatory summit self portrait (on both knobs - which one is the higher?) and pictures of all points of the compass I sat down for a quick snack before heading down. The summit would make for a great lounging spot with company and there is enough space and fantastic views to be a good candidate for final peak of the 48.

After 30 minutes of summit shenanigans I started down. A short way down the trail I met my first company of the day - two dogs. They eyed me suspiciously but were friendly enough, I guessed their owner was much further behind. I carried on and the dogs went up and down a few times before finally heading down to see where their master was.

It was quite a while, but I heard their owner before I met him as he called for one of the dogs. He asked if I had seen the Goldie and I replied that I had not since they both headed down some while before. He shouted, very loudly, "Pork Chop" several times. Some yelping and barking came in reply from further down the trail. Pork Chop had evidently gone off trail and was either lost or otherwise distressed.

The dogs owner decided he had to head back down to find him. I followed at a more cautious pace. I met all three again a little further down as they headed back up, Pork Chop apparently no worse for wear.

A short time after that I was caught up by another descending solo hiker and we chatted as we made our way down the remaining steeps to the hut. He had gone up the night before and camped at Guyot with the intention of doing the Bonds. He said it had been a very cold night and, without snowshoes, had post holed horribly along the Twinway so he had cut his losses and headed back out.

We descended with much care and the occasional slip and slide and curse but made it down to the hut in one piece. We parted company here as I decided to just push on while he went for a break at the hut.

I bumped into a few more small parties as I made my way along the Garfield Ridge trail. All hoping to make it to the hut before the rains came. It was getting very grey and it seemed as though the promised afternoon showers were imminent.

At the Gale River trail junction I once again stopped for a booster snack and a breather. A couple heading up had just got done saying they hoped to make the hut before the rain when it started raining. Not hard, but more than a spot or two.

They pushed on and as I was packing up the solo hiker I had met before caught up to me again. We wished each other a safe journey out and he headed down and was well out of sight by the time I had refilled my nalgene and got my pack on again.

The rain was enough for me to put my rain hat on but I forwent the jacket on the grounds I would have got wetter from the sweat. As it turned out the rain was short lived.

It took a little longer to descend the steep section off the ridge than in January when a butt slide took care of that section in what seemed like 30 seconds of exhilarating semi-controlled plummeting. Still, I soon found myself at the lowest rock stairs and the turn onto the easier grades.

The water crossings were still no problem and I was out on the last leg of the journey. As I prepared to take another picture of a flower I was suddenly surprised to see someone standing a short way behind me, made me jump!

After the initial surprise passed I recognized this person as Sherpa John. He was looking a little pooped and after he told me his tally for the day I was not surprised, and I thought I was having a good day. In the time it took me to do South Twin and back he had gone from the Hale Brook trail head over Hale to Zealand, up to Guyot then the Bonds (all of them!) back up the Twinway to South Twin and down. I was never that fit!

I wished him well for the final run (and I mean that literally) out and he said the call of a large steak and cheese grinder was keeping him going. He took off and in the blink of an eye was out of sight. I went back to my leisurely pursuit of photographing a wild flower.


My last encounter of the day was with a very pale Labrador and his owner. He told me (the owner, not the Labrador) that he lived in town and spent a lot of time in the woods. He had worked S&R at one time and helped with the search efforts for the guy who never returned to his car in the winter. He was out again today to check out a couple of places he thought the missing hiker may have headed to. However, he had a theory that the guy had staged his own disappearance for one reason or another. I guess time will tell.

I couldn't resist taking a few more snaps of the Trillium and other flowers on the way out and finally found myself back at the car at about quarter to four. The descent had taken a shade under four hours, slowed by caution on the remaining ice and snow, but still a decent time.

A great day on the trails and #41 of the 48 completed. A great summit, great views and so good to be back in the mountains.

Bob
 
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Pics are finally finished and can be found starting HERE

Yes it was a great day out but TMax - the butt slide was back in January, had I tried it yesterday it would have been a tad painful :eek:

As for my timing, yeah - what's up with that???

Too early to be certain, I need to do a few more trips yet, but I may have found something that helps with my inefficient lung problem. I'm going to post a new thread in Q&A (it got moved to General Backcountry) to see what peoples thoughts are.

Bob
 
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Great pictures, HikerBob! I'm going to have to get one of those shirts if that's what it will take for me to be a fast hiker! :)

I believe your first mystery flower is a trout lily.

I can never name the mystery peaks, but I have a shot with the flowers at least. :)
-- Ivy
 
HikerBob,
Mystery flower #1 - trout lily as P.I. states.
Mystery flower #2 - wood anemone.
Mystery mountain looks like Camel's Hump in Vermont.
Mystery flower #3 - white violets
Mystery flower #4 - wood anemone again
Thanks for the great trip report!
 
Great job

Hi Bob-
Great job. and certainly not slow! I missed you by a few hours as I was on South Twin around 3:30pm via the Twinway from Zealand. You picked the right day and time as it started to rain a lot and it was blizzard like this morning. The river crossings were a lot higher this morning, but I made it out OK.
 
Washington was cloud-bound as was the summit of Garfield

Here here - I disagree! I was on the summit of Garfield from around 11:45 until 12:30, and it was well below the clouds with great views. We left just as clouds were starting to slip over Lincoln.

Plus, your pictures show Garfield in the clear.

Didn't you see me waving? :D

(Edit: fixed the times, as I'd never reset the clock in this camera for daylight savings)
 
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Thanks for the feedback and flower and mountian IDs folks :)

MichaelJ - my bad - I meant Carrigain not Garfield.

Way too early to start buying shares in Holofiber based on one field trial, but it will be interesting to see how I do on future trips.

Mike - SJ told me it was snowing on South Twin when he came over. That would have been about five minutes before he ran into me below the bridge... :D

Bob
 
Bobs Eye For The Hiking Guy

Outstanding camera work, as usual. I feel South Twin is vastly underrated both in trails and views. Its in my top 10 in New England and your shots made me wish I was there. Thanks.
 
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