the Pemi Wilderness Loop - sort of...

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kathiecamper

New member
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
16
Reaction score
2
Location
Belmont, NH
Hi there - Day #1: My friend Fonda were on the Lincoln Woods trail en route to Guyot campsite last Sat. 7/2 at 6:45am. A later start than we had hoped. Two dogs, 2 tents, 2 packs of 45 lbs each. Where was the sunshine? We encountered a trail runner who advised against doing the Bonds on acct of the high winds and zero visibility. This being NH - wait a minute if you don't like the weather 'cause it will change! - we trudged onward. We met another couple who had also turned around. By the time we reached Bondcliff it was clear, sunny, mild wind and beautiful! Over Mt. Bond, then on to Guyot campsite where we arrived at 4pm, and encountered a problem: no tent platforms available, no dogs allowed in the shelter, but the caretaker wouldn't allow us to use the overflow sites until the shelter was full or we would be faced with a $250 fine per person! So we sat in our chairs and waited with another couple who had their dog with them. At 6:30 the verdict was in! We could set up our tents, the shelter had filled. I fell asleep at 7:30 after a 12 mile day. We awoke to find 3 tents and 5 more people sharing our tentsite. (there were 3 young people who had just driven in from Ohio the day before & had hiked in on 2 hrs of sleep. They were bound and determined to do the whole Pemi Loop with their Wal-Mart tents, bags, sneakers and flannel shirts... they had read about the loop in Backpacker Mag a year ago). The wind howled all night. I had brought a fleece liner figuring it would be warm enough ( note to self: Don't be so naive the next time - these are the White Mtns... ) I froze despite putting on everything in my pack! It was 40 degrees overnight.

Day #2 - Up at 5:30am, packed up, left our packs behind and bagged West Bond. Absolutely awesome! Shouldered our packs and off we went, over Guyot & S.Twin & down that nasty section of Twinway to Galehead Hut. Lunch in the sunshine, met lots of nice people and shared a smorgasboard of gorp amongst all of us. At that point one of Fonda's dogs was getting tired and had sore paws so we opted to go into 13 Falls Tentsite. What a quaint, lovely place. I soaked my feet in the river while we filtered water and let the dogs play. We enjoyed visiting with Emily the caretaker. A nice woman of 22 or so who is spending the summer there and hiking 19 mile days to educate the public on "No Trace" and such. She has the distinction of being the FIRST caretaker who has not had a bear in her tent yet! The bear boxes are now chained to the trees 'cause they were being carried away! I borrowed another fleece liner from Emily and slept a bit warmer - temps in the 40's. Sleep at 9pm after a 10 mile day.

Day #3 - Off down the Franconia Brook trail and to the car - 8 miles. Very uneventful - the beaver dams were low, so no wading thankfully. All-in-all a great 3 day trip with beautiful weather. Lesson learned - always have a back-up plan to fall back on. I'd had my heart set on doing the whole Pemi Loop but the care of the dogs came first. Fonda is trying to condition them for some weeklong backpack trips this summer. Their feet have to toughen up still. She had meant to bring their booties but had winter hiking on the brain and thought they'd be ok without them. We did use Vet-Wrap and duct tape; lighter and worked well. Mileage is approximate - we went back and forth and up & down getting water, doing the W. Bond spur, etc.

So - after 10 years of anticipation - the BONDS ARE DONE! Just Garfield, Liberty & Flume left... Yeah! with 4 in VT and a bunch left in Maine, then there are the NE 100 highest and the list goes on...

P.S. - On 6/25 Wendy & I did not do the Mt. Wash wildflower tour. We went paddling in Great Bay instead. Thanks to those who advised us of the inclement weather that was blowing in that day. Much appreciated!
 
Last edited:
its incredibly beautiful out there. That's a great place for a backpack. I remember my first overnight trip there well. You will have to go back and enjoy it further. That is about as close as you get to paradise in New Hampshire. I'm glad the sun came out for you.
 
Cool. I hiked into Guyot on Tuesday, did the Bonds on Wednesday. The thunder rumbled, the lightning struck, the rains poured down, I didn't care. A wonderful place to be.

I'm surprised Huff was such a hardass with you, he seemed pretty mellow to me.

Steve
 
Top