Baxter State Park 8/7 & 8/8

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SteveHiker

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May 9, 2004
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New (and improved) Boston, NH
Due to poor foresight on my part (in other words not learning much about the park and rules until way too late), I ended up staying at the Katahdin Inn in Millinocket. Not quite what I expected, and I drove by it without even seeing it at first. Note to any future travelers, the Rite Aid parking lot doesn't connect. Very interesting setup with the pool in the lobby.

After hearing the horror stories about getting to the gate early, I got up Sunday about 3 and got to the gate a little before 4. I was third in line. I proceeded to Roaring Brook, and started up the Chimney Pond trail just before 6. As the sun came up it started getting warmer. I stopped at the first viewpoint and took in the view. You really feel small standing there looking up at all the mountain in front of you. I continued up the trail and caught up to 4 girl scout camp conselors right at the junction for the North Basin cut-off. They continued on Chimney Pond, while I took the cut-off. This trail is a little rougher than Chimney Pond but not too bad.

Soon I got to the Hamlin Ridge trail and things got a lot steeper. Before too long, I emerged from the scrub and began the long climb up the ridge. It's almost continuous boulder scrambling. There was a slight breeze, there wasn't a cloud in the sky and the view was awesome. I got to the summit of Hamlin about 9:30 and had it all to myself. Eventually, I headed out for Baxter Peak about 10. Down in the saddle I finally came across two other hikers. They were headed up Hamlin and then up to Baxter later. I met them again in nearly the same spot later headed in the opposite directions.

The climb up the Saddle trail to the summit is much easier than Hamlin Ridge, but there are quite a few loose spots. Reaching the summit, I found at least 30 people already there. It was a little after 11. I hung out for about an hour, taking in the view, taking pictures and chatting with the other summit dwellers. Eventually, I decided against the Knife Edge, due to the unrelenting sunshine and my wanting to save a little energy for Monday. I headed back down to the Saddle and took the saddle slide down to Chimney Pond.

At Chimney Pond, I came across one of the girl scouts from before. She had gone back down the same way I did, while the other 3 went out the Knife Edge. She was concerned about the other 3 so I hung out for a few minutes and soon enough one of them came down the Dudley trail, while the other 2 had taken Helon Taylor. Thinking everything was ok, I headed out. I had stopped to read the signs at the ranger cabin. One of them mentioned a mother and calf moose that was becoming aggessive towards people. 10 minutes later I encountered the calf on the trail. I didn't see momma moose which had me a little nervous. after a couple minutes the moose took off and I quickly made my way further down the trail.

I got back to the car around 4:30 and headed back to Millinocket. I stopped for something to eat, and easily fell asleep around 6:30 that night.
 
day 2, North Brother

Seeing how it was Monday, and Sunday wasn't very crowded, I slept in. Until 4:30. I got up, checked out and got to the gate about 5:20. There were about 6 cars ahead of me when I got there. Not that it mattered, I was the first one that wanted to go to Slide Dam. The drive down to the Marston trailhead takes almost an hour. I hit the trail about 6:30.

The 8th edition of the Maine AMC guide is in error about this trail. It is 4.5 miles to North Brother, not 3.7. Does anyone know if this has been corrected in the new edition

Right away, I began to wonder if this was a good idea or not. It was already about 60 degrees whereas on Sunday it had been in the high 40s at this point. Luckily, it was shady most of the way and the footing on this trail is so soft compared to most others around. I had a lot of trouble on the uphills. But there are flat sections too. I got to the Coe junction and decided to just go to North Brother. There was one other rather steep section after the little pond which was also rather rough on my legs, but then it flattens right out again and the trail is nice and soft again. The last climb up North Brother isn't too bad and when you emerge from the scrub, the view is spectacular. I reached the summit just before 11. (Surprisingly enough almost book time, how the hell did I do that?) By now the sun had gotten much higher and it was quite hot. I decided I'd had enough and headed down about 11:30. The rest of the way down was a struggle. It kept getting hotter, there was much less shade and my pack started rubbing me the wrong way (sorry if that's too much detail). I met a French-Candadian couple just before the upper junction on the way down and they were the only people I saw on the trails all day.

I got back to the car about 2. After dumping the rest of my water over my head, it was warm anyway, I broke out some cold water from the cooler, and changed my clothes in the outhouse. I learned my lesson about that on Caribou Valley Road. Upon reaching the gatehoues, I did my good deed for the day by giving a thru-hiker a ride back to Millinocket. Stupid me, I didn't get his trail name. He was quite an interesting guy. He was from Alaska and started out in March. Next year he plans on the PCT, and then after that the Continental Divide. Must be nice to be retired. He started on a rant about section hikers, and then day hikers, but quickly changed the subject I guess when he realized who was giving him a ride.

It was a long ride down 95 and 101 to home. I got back about 9 last night. I definitely liked it up there, and plan to go back sometime. Next time, I think I need to stay longer and stay in the park itself. There's a lot more cool stuff to check out. Maybe the Knife Edge next time, and Doubletop looked interesting too.
 
first time in baxter is always amazing...different world up there. the main difference i noticed about katahdin the first time, is that trees die out much sooner. the upper part of the mountain is all rock
 
Great TR, Steve! Sounds like it was hotter than a you-know-what!

SteveHiker said:
The 8th edition of the Maine AMC guide is in error about this trail. It is 4.5 miles to North Brother, not 3.7. Does anyone know if this has been corrected in the new edition.

If I'm reading the 9th edition correctly, it says that it's 3.7 miles to the summit from the point on this trail that is beyond the scrub, but 4.5 miles in its entirety to the summit.

SteveHiker said:
He started on a rant about section hikers, and then day hikers, but quickly changed the subject I guess when he realized who was giving him a ride.

Out of curiosity, what was his beef with section hikers and day hikers? Did he think we're not out there for "the right reasons"?
 
SteveHiker said:
Next time, I think I need to stay longer and stay in the park itself. There's a lot more cool stuff to check out. Maybe the Knife Edge next time, and Doubletop looked interesting too.

Yeah, the park offers a lot. Knife Edge is amazing. It's a must do, so long as you're not prone to vertigo too bad.

Glad you had fun! I'll be up there again very soon and can't wait. :D
 
SteveHiker said:
The 8th edition of the Maine AMC guide is in error about this trail. It is 4.5 miles to North Brother, not 3.7. Does anyone know if this has been corrected in the new edition

The new edition has a couple of errors about the trails in the Brother/Coe area. I emailed their corrections address about them back when I first got the guide and was planning my ascents of those peaks (June) and have not heard back since.

Sounds like a great trip - just wait 'till you're back climbing the whole ridge to get Coe, South Brother, and Fort!
:)
 
alpinista said:
If I'm reading the 9th edition correctly, it says that it's 3.7 miles to the summit from the point on this trail that is beyond the scrub, but 4.5 miles in its entirety to the summit.

I'm not sure I understand what that means. from end of the scrub to the summit can't be more than a couple hundred yards. :confused: The sign at the tote road says 4.5


alpinista said:
Out of curiosity, what was his beef with section hikers and day hikers? Did he think we're not out there for "the right reasons"?

I'm not exactly sure. Something about they don't know the trail that well and give bad directions or something like that. He must have had a bad experience or two in the past five months.


MichaelJ said:
Sounds like a great trip - just wait 'till you're back climbing the whole ridge to get Coe, South Brother, and Fort!

good excuse to go back, not that I need one. I looked over at Fort, but decided solo bushwhacking at that point was a bad idea. I suppose I could have done Coe and South Brother on the way out, but I can't imagine the view is a whole lot different, and I was already pretty hurtin' from the heat.
 
nice trip and report!

I don't know if you tried this or not, but you can reserve over the phone with a credit card 10 days prior to a trip, or stop at Headquarters if you're going up on a weekday. If anything is available that is...
 
twigeater said:
nice trip and report!

I don't know if you tried this or not, but you can reserve over the phone with a credit card 10 days prior to a trip, or stop at Headquarters if you're going up on a weekday. If anything is available that is...

I thought reservations were by mail only. So that's good to know.

I did stop at the headquarters on Saturday around 3:30. The 2 women working there were less than helpful and not particularly friendly either. So I didn't bother to ask. The 2 women at the gate were very helpful and friendly. In fact, I think the younger of the 2 was just a little too happy and chipper for 5 o'clock in the morning. But I could see how one would actually like going to work there. She even remembered me the second day and asked if I was coming back more as the $37 season pass would be cheaper than paying 12 bucks each day.
 
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