Climbing Rating Systems (by request)
Information was gathered and edited for NE east coast reader's interests from book references listed at end of post.
Climbing ratings have been used to better describe the difficulty of a route for the purpose of informing future climbers what to expect.
Any given route is rated by the "most difficult" maneuver or obstacle over the routes entire length.
Often called "the crux”, which may only be a single move, however the entire route is rated accordingly.
There are many complicated climbing rating systems, but these are the basics for the purpose to briefly explain and give examples for our group forum.
In 1937 a modified European climbing rating system was introduced in the US as the Sierra Club System, then modified in 1950 to better describe rock climbing.
Today this system is widely used in the US for mountaineering and rock climbing.
Please note; Ropes are used in many other less demanding climb rating situations for simple safety and not to be considered exclusive to "technical" climbing, which is often a misunderstood point.
Class 1) Hiking on simple flat trails
NE Example: Wilderness Trail
Class 2) Simple scrambling with occasional use of hands.
NE Example: 99 % of all White Mt. summit climbs.
Class 3) Difficult scrambling. Actual handholds and footholds must be found, tested and used.
Steep or large talus boulders can be rated Class 3.
The angle of rock has steepened to the point where a fall might result in injury.
The traveler must use caution while moving across this type of landscape.
Often described as climbing the outside of a tall building on a steep narrow staircase with NO railing.
Scary but easy when compared to the next rating levels.
During remote backcountry mountaineering, a rope should be available to anyone who asks for it.
NE Example: Huntington's Ravine trail, Flume Slide trail, Tri P slide trail.
A steep snow gully or pass climb with crampons and ice axes, but no ropes, would also be considered Class 3.
NE Example: Any of Tuckerman's Ravine gullies.
Class 4) Terrain where handholds have become smaller and the exposure (air below your feet) has increased.
A rope, protection and belay should come into continuous use because a fall will likely result in death or very serious injury.
Loosely compared to climbing a ladder on the side of a tall building.
The footholds and handholds are there, but if you let go, that's the end.
Many backcountry mountaineering routes to summits are Class 4 in regions like the Rockies and Sierras.
Class 5) Steep and difficult "technical" rock climbing which includes the use of rope, fixed belaying and protection to prevent the leader from falling (and often expected.)
Climbers must use advanced climbing holds such as edging, friction smearing, laybacks, mantles, stemming, underclings, hand jams, toe jams, chimneying, finger and fist jams to make upward progress.
Protection consists of chocks, slings, bolts and pitons wedged or fastened to the rock.
At no time during upward progress by lead climber is he/she hanging on protection.
This is still considered "free climbing" ascent.
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) subdivides the Class 5 into specific decimal categories from 5.0 to 5.15b and is difficult alone just to explain (in this post)
Class A0-A5, C0-C5) Was Class 6. Technical Aid climbing is where the climber actually hangs off placed protection from move to move.
Often large overhanging cliffs are aided, however the high end of Class 5 is pushing the envelope ratings of overhanging cliff routes into "free climbing" status.
There are other mountaineering ratings which have to do with length of climb considering hours or days required and commitment risks. These are Grades I-VI.
Ice climbing has many rating systems based on region and difficulty.
Brownie
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Resources:
The High Sierra, peaks passes & trails, by R.J. Secor
Mountaineering-The Freedom of the Hills 7th edition, by The Mountaineers Books
Sierra High Route, by Steve Roper
