A 3-day, Maine 8-pack, with 6 Moose for Dessert

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Damselfly

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Joined
Apr 16, 2008
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Location
Meredith, NH
Along with friends Skip Otto, and Ken and Karen Robichaud, we headed up to Stratton, ME for three days of hiking to grab some Maine 4K peaks: Saddleback, Horn, Sugarloaf, Spaulding, Abraham, So. Crocker, Crocker and Redington.

On our first day we all met at the Saddleback Ski Area. We began hiking the ski slopes in somewhat misty and cloudy conditions and by the time we reached the summit, we were getting pelted by a driving rain. We hiked what should have been a beautiful ridge in the pouring rain with no views, but still had a good time just being out hiking.

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We found the Saddleback Ski Area to be 'hiker friendly.' They had trail maps outlining which ski trails to hike up in a box outside the rear door to the lodge, and they allowed us to change out of our wet and cold clothes when we returned.

As we drove up towards Stratton to the place where we would be staying, we saw our first moose grazing by the side of the road. By the end of our trip, we would see several more.

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We checked into the Maine Roadhouse for our two-night stay. We had heard that it was convenient, hiker-friendly, cheap, that there was a free washer/dryer there, and a communal kitchen. And while all of that was true, the place was dirty and ill kept - and we jotted down the names of other motels in the area should we return to the area someday, as it’s doubtful we’ll ever return there again.

Day two would be our biggest hike - Sugarloaf, Spaulding and Abraham, a 17-18 mile round trip. We started up the Caribou Valley Road early in the morning and within the comfort of Skip’s truck, were up to the metal bridge a little after 7:00 in the morning. We hiked the remaining .2 miles to the AT trailhead and were surprised to see a Toyota Corolla that far. All the chatter on VFTT forums about the CVR can’t change these facts: the road and bridges are in sketchy shape and deteriorating a bit each year; trucks and SUV’s with clearance do best and can generally make it to the steel bridge without incident; and some drivers have a greater tolerance for risk than others do.

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As it crosses the CVR, the AT looks more like a herd path, but the white AT blazes are evident as is some flagging. Within a couple of tenths, we had to cross the South Branch River. While the crossing can be tricky, hikers had put up a plank which served as a bridge across a couple of boulders.

Trail conditions along the AT varied from steep rock ledges and rock slides, to muddy sections, to walks through pine forests, and to dry soft trails through birch glades. With the exception of an occasional long distance hiker, we had the trails and summits to ourselves.

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Sugarloaf, with fine views, was an easy .6 miles off the AT. Spaulding, a mostly wooded summit, was next. We took a break on each summit, and another break at the Spaulding Lean-to.

As we approached the shoulder leading up to Mt. Abraham, its rock fields finally came into view. Hiking up to Abraham was the highlight of our three days. It was a beautiful summit with rock fields similar to those experienced in the northern Presidentials with rough rock and 360 degree views. It was now just past 2:00 and we were only half done with our journey.

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After reviewing our options the night before, we had decided that that instead of hiking it as an “in and out” (regain the elevation up Spaulding and Sugarloaf?), or as a “traverse” (hours to set up a shuttle ) – that we would follow VFTT member Joe Cedar’s tip to hike out via a herd path that we saw at the Abraham Trail / AT junction.

While it didn’t save us any miles, the hike out, mostly downhill, along a herd path and logging roads, saved us incredible effort, energy and it shaved hours off our possible hiking time had we returned via the AT.

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As advised, the herd path leaves the junction of the Abraham Trail and AT. We followed this in a mostly westerly direction. The herd path was sometimes open and sometimes overgrown; sometimes flagged and sometimes not; but the tread way was almost always apparent and it was clear that this path received a lot of use.

We got to an area that was recently logged and briefly lost the path, but by staying close to the woods on the left and walking over the logging slash, we quickly regained the herd path. After about 30 minutes, it dropped us onto the first of several logging roads.

We knew that we needed to head north to reconnect with the CVR, and the logging road often went in circuitous directions, shaking our confidence a bit. But the bottom line is: take a RIGHT turn at each fork or at each new logging road intersection, and voila… you’re back on the CVR. The return trip from the summit of Abraham back to our car only took us 3 ¾ hours. I can’t imagine that we could have hiked the AT back over two peaks along a rocky 8 miles in this time.

After getting back to our car and driving out, we drove a short bit past Sugarloaf Ski Area to "Hugs Italian Restaurant." Despite it's homely appearance on the outside, they served up some great food, and we highly recommend it!

The next morning (day 3) we set out and within minutes, came upon four moose in a wetland area, including a cow and her calf. Now that’s a nice start to the day!

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It was another trek up the CVR… but we were pros now. Again, the road is sketchy, but doable.

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As we climbed up the AT towards So. Crocker, the first half the trail was fairly moderate, and the second half a bit more steep. You have to gain about 1700’ in 1.8 miles, so do the math and you’ll know it’s going to be steep. But just as other trip reports have laid out, it took us about 1:15 to climb South Crocker, 40 minutes to hike to Crocker (550’ gain), and 35 minutes to return to South (390’ gain). Including breaks on both summits, we were ready to begin our hike to Redington at the 3-hour mark.

I had paid particular attention to Tim Lucia (VFTT’s bikehikesfish) and Jeremy Clark (FranklinSites.com hiking guide) trip reports. With an evident herd path off the summit and good intel, it was a pleasant bushwhack/herdpath hike over to Redington. The only tricky spot was when the herd path dropped us into the AT scenic boundary corridor. But as the intel suggested, we turned right onto this corridor, and after a few feet, looked for the herd path that turned left and downhill. Easy squeezy if you know what you’re looking for.

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We were on the summit of Redington in about an hour and found the canister in some trees just to the right of the large summit clearing.

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After a nice half hour lunch break, it was time to make the donuts and hike the logging roads home. Following the advice of others before us, we hiked the herd path back to a series of logging roads which would take us back to the CVR: herd path; head right when it splits; left at the ATV kind of road; right /downhill at the next logging road junction. At each junction, rock cairns, flagging and stick arrows pointed us in the correct direction.

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Two hours later, we were back at our car and enjoying some cold drinks. Ten miles in 6 ½ hours, which included breaks on all three summits. Not bad. After driving back out the CVR (for hopefully the last time), it was congratulations and goodbyes until our next adventure.

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Nice. The 2"X12" boards on the culvert that youd crossed in the first mile of the CVR were ours that we left to help others cross it. Those boards got our Hyundai Sonata to the AT crossing.

Well done on the hikes. Pics look great.
 
Nice. I'd considered the logging road bushwhack down when I was planning my trip, but because of the weather we hiked to Abraham (skipping the summits) first while waiting for the weather to clear, which it mostly did, giving us views on the way back.

Too bad you missed the views from Saddleback. They're outstanding.

Tim
 
Nice. The 2"X12" boards on the culvert that youd crossed in the first mile of the CVR were ours that we left to help others cross it. Those boards got our Hyundai Sonata to the AT crossing.

Well done on the hikes. Pics look great.

Would the driver of a Honda Civic be advised to carry some boards with him? What would be the most practical dimensions?
 
While there was a Toyota Corolla in as far as we went, I can't imagine doing it with a passenger car I valued (clearance issues)! As Beth says its a comfort/risk level but it was pretty bad in spots. That being said except for the bridge in the middle of the report (day 2) which we didn't do with Skip's truck (elected to walk the short distance) you could probably do much of it without boards. This bridge in the picture was ok on the decking but had a nasty drop off on the side you can see. The picture of the culvert with the CRV is very early into it. FYI, the road hazards presented are different on the way out versus the way in, as something doable one way may be much more problematic the other (bridge mentioned above, some of the protruding rocks). If it's someone else's car go for it :)
If you do bring board most in the 6-8 ft range by your tire width would maybe help.
Ken
 
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Would the driver of a Honda Civic be advised to carry some boards with him? What would be the most practical dimensions?
I bought a twelve foot two by twelve and cut it in half. In spots where they were used as ramps, I would place small perpendicular to them underneath them to add support, so that the boards were not taking all of the weight. I got pretty creative with them, but would not advise anyone to go past the metal bridge in a sedan, such as a Civic. There are some raised rocks that become quite difficult to avoid. Also, I believe that the road climbs after the metal bridge and is very eroded on the right side. You'd probably be up a creek if your right side tires slip into the eroded area with a low clearance vehicle. There is a parking area to the left of the road right before the bridge in which a few cars can park. It's pretty obvious where it is, somewhere around the four mile mark.

Also, if you use the boards, it might be worth having a passenger, if possible, step out and guide you to make sure that your tires are lined up with the boards.
 
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You probably can use your mountain bike and claim the peaks with a clear conscience since if you had a half-ton or bigger truck/SUV, or a Jeep, you can clearly drive to the AT crossing. Last year when we were there an old Jeep CJ was coming from beyond the crossing. The driver + passenger were down there for the pure fun of it.

Tim
 
Spaulding ?

A question, Why does Spaulding have a summit sign that states an elevation less than 4 thousand feet? Our gps had a reading of over 4 thousand.
 
A question, Why does Spaulding have a summit sign that states an elevation less than 4 thousand feet? Our gps had a reading of over 4 thousand.
Things in Maine are slow to change. They're waiting a few years to see if the new elevation will stick.

:)
 
Should we start a poll for when it caves??

Did those peaks 3 years ago. Drove the CVR in a bimmer with no problem, but stopped before the metal bridge. Had to hug the side of the road (ie, into the bushes) a few times to avoid some oil pan redesign.
 
The bridges in question were pretty well constructed structurally but the bridge decks have always looked sketchy. I beleive that for fire purposes, the road is kept passable for fire equipment but there is no incentive to keep it open for passenger cars. A large amount of the Caribou Valley has been for sale so when a new owner takes over, the road and bridges may change for the better or worse depending on their management plan.

Even though it is convenient way to bag peaks, I have always felt that the road becoming totally closed would improve the quality of the AT backpack from RT 4 to Rt 27. I expect with this road gone, this would be one of the longest stretches of the AT in Maine without a road crossing public or private.
 
I beleive that for fire purposes, the road is kept passable for fire equipment

And snowmobiles in winter. There's a route that comes in from the south over the low ridge into the valley.

Also, one of those bridges back well before the green metal bridge was completely rebuilt in 2004, not that (relatively) long ago. The others are older, I believe.

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