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  1. Mudrat

    Through the Roofs of Marcy's East Face-2017 August 27

    I belayed Steve to the ledge and warned him that he’d probably hate me for the last move. He commented on another harder option that I’d apparently missed while focusing on the traverse. There’s always another day. Pitch three was Steve’s to lead...the money pitch of the day. A dark line in one...
  2. Mudrat

    Through the Roofs of Marcy's East Face-2017 August 27

    Photos: https://goo.gl/photos/RBnawkQ5DnVKGNheA Partner: Steven St. Pierre Mileage: 17.5 Duration 4:20 AM – 12:20 AM (20 hours) Rain, rain, rain was the theme for the summer of 2017. Weather thwarted efforts to climb in the backcountry most of the weekends since mid-June when I was last in the...
  3. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Haystack-Ride the Lightning-Skip the Lighting-2017 March 10

    TOP OF SKIP THE LIGHTNING It was snowing hard when my turn came; Alan captured a dramatic photo of me—a bad weather souvenir. The warm weather in the mid-20’s was being pushed out by the cold front, but it was time to leave regardless of the temperatures. We talked about the routes as we...
  4. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Haystack-Ride the Lightning-Skip the Lighting-2017 March 10

    We finally bushwhacked back up to the Ramp Wall on Haystack. There was a line that I’d been contemplating for a couple years...aesthetic and fat with ice. The wall, as the name suggests, has a left-rising ramp about 8 feet wide and 50 feet long. It’s an obvious feature with two rock climbing...
  5. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Haystack-Ride the Lightning-Skip the Lighting-2017 March 10

    Well, it's been awhile since I posted and figured this might be a good one... Partner: Alan Wechsler Duration/Mileage: 17.5 hours (4:15 a.m.-9:45 p.m.), about 17.5 with meandering Temperature: 10-20 Fahrenheit Photos: https://goo.gl/photos/7KBbg53VjQdaqEy79 Video...
  6. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge Rock Climbing-Haystack-Psalm 23 and Windjammer-2016 September 17

    I knew this wouldn’t be a multi-pitch route and thus hoped it would be the first of a couple climbs. I started up and stepped back down. Jaryn dryly proclaimed, “You’re off route...” Yup, his sarcasm meshed well with mine. Sharp stone, dozens of cracks, small ledges and pockets made climbing the...
  7. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge Rock Climbing-Haystack-Psalm 23 and Windjammer-2016 September 17

    Video: https://youtu.be/EO9J8k9KAmw Photos: https://goo.gl/photos/rQFTbhK7MD7d1jeM6 Time/Duration: 4:30 a.m. – 9:30 p.m. / 17 hrs. Partners: John Pikus & Jaryn DeShane Approach: Garden to Marcy/Haystack col, follow cliffs to Feline Wall and bushwhack through talus to Marcy Brook where terrain...
  8. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Two New Ice Climbs on Mt. Haystack-2016 March 5

    Yeah, the valley has no snow...Keene Valley. It comes in as you get higher, but the trails are frozen (or not now) mud and ice. Thanks!
  9. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Two New Ice Climbs on Mt. Haystack-2016 March 5

    The pillars were partially coated in delaminating ice. We then bushwhacked south to a piece of talus with a nice view of both the gorge and our potential second route. I silently considered the options. A few minutes later we arrived. In summer this is a wet chossy cliff adjacent to the route...
  10. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Two New Ice Climbs on Mt. Haystack-2016 March 5

    Duration/Mileage/Elevation Gain: 14.50 hours/17+ miles/5,300 feet Partner: Nolan Huther Pack Weight: 55 pounds Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_4fELobDuw Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/1043263...ing2016March5# Prior Panther Gorge Explorations: Grand Central Slide (w/Mark Lowell)...
  11. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-New Ice Route-By Tooth and Claw-2016 January 30

    It was impossible to hear anything but Devin so three tugs signaled that it was again time to climb. A series of awkward moves led up the chimney to another terrace. A lightly iced corner led to a committing step up and left to lower angled ice below a right facing corner. Twenty more feet led...
  12. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-New Ice Route-By Tooth and Claw-2016 January 30

    Location on Marcy. Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/104326342886107653436/PantherGorgeByToothAndClawWI42016January30 Duration/Mileage/Elevation Gain: 15.75 hours/18+ miles/5,300 feet Approach: 8.5 miles from the Garden Trailhead, Keene Valley Partners: Bill Schneider (lead climber), Devin...
  13. Mudrat

    Khyber's Slide - The Search for Ice on 2015 December 5

    Had a great day out with Devin Farkas (Assistant Director of the Outdoor Program at St. Lawrence University). The primary goal was to find ice during a season that’s warmer than normal. But where? My best guess was at higher elevations on the northern/northwestern aspect of the mountains...
  14. Mudrat

    Tour de Gorge – Exploring Panther Gorge 2015 November 21

    The woods to the Shield’s north were steep and semi-loosely knit with many cedars. By now Allison was in the lead and I heard her yell out. We rushed up and she was spouting a few explicatives and in pain; a branch had stabbed deep into her ear. She described a pulsing sound along with the pain...
  15. Mudrat

    Tour de Gorge – Exploring Panther Gorge 2015 November 21

    ***Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/1043263...2015November21 ***Video: https://youtu.be/UyYj1NIytw4 Duration/Mileage/Elevation Gain: 18 hours/20.75+ miles/ 6,000+ feet Bushwhack Mileage: 1.7 miles Time: 5:10 a.m.– 11:10 pm Partners: Adam Crofoot/Allison Rooney Prior Panther Gorge...
  16. Mudrat

    Wright Peak B-47 Wing Wreckage + Right, Left Wing and new Angel Slides

    Thanks! It was really cool to poke around the area and study that segment.
  17. Mudrat

    Wright Peak B-47 Wing Wreckage + Right, Left Wing and new Angel Slides

    PHOTO SET Forest Ranger Scott van Laer (Azimuth) approached me with an idea back in 2014. He wanted to find the wing wreckage of the B-47 that crashed into Wright Peak on January 16, 1962. I too had similar aspirations, but no real incentive until his email. The piece would give him valuable...
  18. Mudrat

    Panther Gorge-Promised Land on Marcy-2015 September 19

    I led pitch 3 after scoping the terrain. There was a vertical wall in between our position and a steep slab sandwiched between two huge broken walls of stone and the gully that splits the Feline Wall. I worked over to the wall and traversed the face using a handcrack below a small ceiling. There...
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