Stan
Well-known member
Erik and I arrived at Guadalupe National Park Monday evening with strong west winds gusting to 80 MPH. We pitched tent in the most sheltered site at Pine Springs Campground ... a few small trees to lend a bit of a windbreak and added security to tie down the tent.
The wind occasionally roared like a jet coming through the canyon and once the sound was gone the afterwash shook the fly and would rock us back to sleep.
The camp gives new meaning to hardened tentsites ... and I mean hardened ... as in limestone turned concrete. Aside from being ruggedly gorgeous, the camp has a sink for washing dishes, clean heated bathrooms and is right at the trailheads for a few significant hikes, including Guadalupe Peak.
On Tuesday, with clear skies, temps in the 40's and winds abated somewhat, we commenced a hike of the high point of Texas. 3000' of elevation gain to over 7800' and about 8 miles round trip. The trails are well constructed and maintained with switchbacks galore ... and of course, that omnipresent limestone. If you hike here prepare for any typical aches and pains to be exaggerated ... like walking on city streets except with energy and adrenaline drawn from the surroundings.
These trails are not for those who would be uncomfortable, say, on Katahdin's Knife Edge. You are often at the edge of a cliff that falls straight down. I shuttered at the thought of a rescue, nay recovery, from a misstep here ... but that likelihood is dim as the trail is so easy to maneuver. Whatever vertigo one may have is easily displaced by enjoyment of the views.
Treeline has a reverse meaning here ... below the line is desert, only the cooler air and additional moisture found at higher altitudes support stunted growth of trees and even then, the difference on the north side (more growth) from the sunny side is marked.
We did not summit this day, turned back by high winds the last 400 yards or so, despite cables. Even horses must stop by this point. Yes! some ascend by horseback and there are a couple cliffs where riders are instructed to dismount and lead the animal.
There was absolutely no disappointment in having come this far without touching the summit monument ... a memorial to the pony express AND American Airlines ... go figure! We saw all the views ultimately to be observed at the summit. We came back safely. And, a voyage of some discovery is at least as rewarding as reaching a geographic milestone.
The discoveries for me were first, that I found it remarkable that people ascended this on horseback. No ordinary trail ride, mind you. The bond between rider and horse must be as strong as a marriage ... mutually trusting and perservering. It gave new meaning to the famed relationship between a cowboy and his horse.
Second, about 1/4 mile above a campsite a mile from the summit, there is a bridge with a massive cliff above. As you ascend from here, small caves become obvious in the walls of this cliff well above the bridge ... not inaccesible but close to a technical climb ... and limestone is too unstable to be suitable for technical climbing. Archeology students have explored these caves and found evidence of prehistoric visitors or residents.
There is little or no water at this location except when it rains or snows, there is little or no game up here, and it is not conducive to gathering fruits and nuts ... nor do I expect that 1000 years ago people engaged in peakbagging for the fun of it. It is not a place to escape anything but rivals for the things not found here ... except perhaps the heat of the summer desert.
Such thoughts around survival in primitive times drove home the third point that many of us probably realize on some level but do not fully appreciate. Technology gives us a false sense of security about our ability to survive ... 'til the lights go out at least. When deep into the reality of this desolation and the survival of those who came before, with no dependence on technology and all dependence on personal skill and instinct, one more fully admires, respects and appreciates the achievements of the primitives and the early explorers.
It's not easy to get here ... we drove ... but I'd recommend Guadalupe highly for any mountain hiker's "bucket list".
The wind occasionally roared like a jet coming through the canyon and once the sound was gone the afterwash shook the fly and would rock us back to sleep.
The camp gives new meaning to hardened tentsites ... and I mean hardened ... as in limestone turned concrete. Aside from being ruggedly gorgeous, the camp has a sink for washing dishes, clean heated bathrooms and is right at the trailheads for a few significant hikes, including Guadalupe Peak.
On Tuesday, with clear skies, temps in the 40's and winds abated somewhat, we commenced a hike of the high point of Texas. 3000' of elevation gain to over 7800' and about 8 miles round trip. The trails are well constructed and maintained with switchbacks galore ... and of course, that omnipresent limestone. If you hike here prepare for any typical aches and pains to be exaggerated ... like walking on city streets except with energy and adrenaline drawn from the surroundings.
These trails are not for those who would be uncomfortable, say, on Katahdin's Knife Edge. You are often at the edge of a cliff that falls straight down. I shuttered at the thought of a rescue, nay recovery, from a misstep here ... but that likelihood is dim as the trail is so easy to maneuver. Whatever vertigo one may have is easily displaced by enjoyment of the views.
Treeline has a reverse meaning here ... below the line is desert, only the cooler air and additional moisture found at higher altitudes support stunted growth of trees and even then, the difference on the north side (more growth) from the sunny side is marked.
We did not summit this day, turned back by high winds the last 400 yards or so, despite cables. Even horses must stop by this point. Yes! some ascend by horseback and there are a couple cliffs where riders are instructed to dismount and lead the animal.
There was absolutely no disappointment in having come this far without touching the summit monument ... a memorial to the pony express AND American Airlines ... go figure! We saw all the views ultimately to be observed at the summit. We came back safely. And, a voyage of some discovery is at least as rewarding as reaching a geographic milestone.
The discoveries for me were first, that I found it remarkable that people ascended this on horseback. No ordinary trail ride, mind you. The bond between rider and horse must be as strong as a marriage ... mutually trusting and perservering. It gave new meaning to the famed relationship between a cowboy and his horse.
Second, about 1/4 mile above a campsite a mile from the summit, there is a bridge with a massive cliff above. As you ascend from here, small caves become obvious in the walls of this cliff well above the bridge ... not inaccesible but close to a technical climb ... and limestone is too unstable to be suitable for technical climbing. Archeology students have explored these caves and found evidence of prehistoric visitors or residents.
There is little or no water at this location except when it rains or snows, there is little or no game up here, and it is not conducive to gathering fruits and nuts ... nor do I expect that 1000 years ago people engaged in peakbagging for the fun of it. It is not a place to escape anything but rivals for the things not found here ... except perhaps the heat of the summer desert.
Such thoughts around survival in primitive times drove home the third point that many of us probably realize on some level but do not fully appreciate. Technology gives us a false sense of security about our ability to survive ... 'til the lights go out at least. When deep into the reality of this desolation and the survival of those who came before, with no dependence on technology and all dependence on personal skill and instinct, one more fully admires, respects and appreciates the achievements of the primitives and the early explorers.
It's not easy to get here ... we drove ... but I'd recommend Guadalupe highly for any mountain hiker's "bucket list".
