spider solo
New member
Greetings from the Gaspe...for the past 3 years we have been setting our sights on paddling some of the Mingan Islands, Quebec. It has been 9 years since we 1st met sea kayakers while on Isle Quarry yet we have been paddling only these last 5 years.
This year was the big blow -out for us...early retirement for my wife Marilyn..new tandem kayak (boreal design) and for a total treat we decided to go with a guide outfitter.
This means we had to do No- Cooking !! Yippee!
Plus this was big water for us with longer open water crossings and navigation than we had done on our own.
Sept 1-5th,2008
So here we go... already on the Gaspe,South shore of the St Lawrence we cross over to the Cote Nord via ferry to Godbout (55k) and head on up.
Arriving in the region we look out at the Islands, with the wind howling and say silently to ourselves.."Dam those Islands are further away than I remember," but if that be the way then so be it.
Well not to worry... turns out we were looking out at Isle de Anticosti 18 some miles off shore. Next day we rendezvous with the guide Simon at Longue Point and see our destination for the 1st day only about 3 k off shore... whew!
The wind calms down and the crossing goes smooth as can be till we get closer to Isle de Nue where the sound of the water changes quite a bit and the swells build up only an occasional wave washes over the boat and a quick look at the guide and he is the total epitome of calmness. I swear he never changed his stroke no matter what the conditions... always cool calm and collected, a young fellow in his late twenties he already had about 10 years guiding exp,and knew well in advance that the rough waters would calm as we rounded the Island and sure enough they did.
Hope I didn't get into the story too quickly...The Mingan Archipelago, is a group of islands on the north side of the St Lawrence River in Quebec.
Since 1984 it has been part of Parks Canada .
It is unique for its beautiful Monoliths,as well as its abundant marine wildlife,and flora as well.
Sept is a great month to make a visit and by sheer luck we got 5 days of absolutely gorgeous weather and calm seas (for the most part).
Next day, the 2nd of our trip after making a smooth crossing, with a curious porpoise and a grey seal or two we are scouting for a fresh waterfall, though officially there is no fresh water on the islands...another vote for a guide...
I would say we were no more than 50 ft off shore of some cliffs when suddenly a breaking wave comes from the cliffs towards us !!
It makes no sense at 1st. We are all startled, when I realize it is the wake of a whale and she is between us and the cliff.
I aim the bow of the boat toward the wake thinking we would need to brace for the wave...but "poof" the wave disappears before reaching us.
No impact, no wave, all is quiet again.
What's she doing Simon asks softly ...we make no move ...
more later....spdr
....and later it is...
1st we hear the "blow" noise of one whale off to the side, then another blow a little beside us , thinking perhaps it is a mother and her young we decided that was not the case. They were Minke Whales (Petite Rogual) and though they have no teeth, only baleen. They have been known to eat small fish and to crowd them against the cliffs to make for more concentrated feeding. It was our thoughts that "she" was feeding coming up for a breath and noticed us. Perhaps she swam along the top more than usual creating a wake much like the bow of a boat would make before she went back down....just a guess...She could also have been coming up head 1st to make its catch near the surface. As it was each day we were to have the company of the whales, and though we had each encountered Minkies before this was certainly the closest of all for us.
That evening we were joined by another guide and her parents. We were now a party of six and the food they brought was a huge treat. Sept is harvest season. Potatoes, corn,carrots lettuce etc to go along with smoked salmon,trout & cod. Blueberries they had just picked...on the mainland I would vow that the blueberries grow from the north shore all the way to Labrador. Amazing it was.
Parc National L'Archipel de Mingan is divided into sections. We were traveling in the Western & Central sections. Then there is the East section of the Parc...beyound that.. outside of the Parc is referred to as East of East to Aquanish till the road ends at Natashquan or a bit there after...from there there are no more roads but a few settlements along the shore every 30 or so miles apart....there is much talk of beautiful paddling all the way up to Blanc Sablon. Labrador beyound that.
Don't know how far our trips may take us over the years but the coast of East of East certainly calls to us...
bon chance...
This year was the big blow -out for us...early retirement for my wife Marilyn..new tandem kayak (boreal design) and for a total treat we decided to go with a guide outfitter.
This means we had to do No- Cooking !! Yippee!
Plus this was big water for us with longer open water crossings and navigation than we had done on our own.
Sept 1-5th,2008
So here we go... already on the Gaspe,South shore of the St Lawrence we cross over to the Cote Nord via ferry to Godbout (55k) and head on up.
Arriving in the region we look out at the Islands, with the wind howling and say silently to ourselves.."Dam those Islands are further away than I remember," but if that be the way then so be it.
Well not to worry... turns out we were looking out at Isle de Anticosti 18 some miles off shore. Next day we rendezvous with the guide Simon at Longue Point and see our destination for the 1st day only about 3 k off shore... whew!
The wind calms down and the crossing goes smooth as can be till we get closer to Isle de Nue where the sound of the water changes quite a bit and the swells build up only an occasional wave washes over the boat and a quick look at the guide and he is the total epitome of calmness. I swear he never changed his stroke no matter what the conditions... always cool calm and collected, a young fellow in his late twenties he already had about 10 years guiding exp,and knew well in advance that the rough waters would calm as we rounded the Island and sure enough they did.
Hope I didn't get into the story too quickly...The Mingan Archipelago, is a group of islands on the north side of the St Lawrence River in Quebec.
Since 1984 it has been part of Parks Canada .
It is unique for its beautiful Monoliths,as well as its abundant marine wildlife,and flora as well.
Sept is a great month to make a visit and by sheer luck we got 5 days of absolutely gorgeous weather and calm seas (for the most part).
Next day, the 2nd of our trip after making a smooth crossing, with a curious porpoise and a grey seal or two we are scouting for a fresh waterfall, though officially there is no fresh water on the islands...another vote for a guide...
I would say we were no more than 50 ft off shore of some cliffs when suddenly a breaking wave comes from the cliffs towards us !!
It makes no sense at 1st. We are all startled, when I realize it is the wake of a whale and she is between us and the cliff.
I aim the bow of the boat toward the wake thinking we would need to brace for the wave...but "poof" the wave disappears before reaching us.
No impact, no wave, all is quiet again.
What's she doing Simon asks softly ...we make no move ...
more later....spdr
....and later it is...
1st we hear the "blow" noise of one whale off to the side, then another blow a little beside us , thinking perhaps it is a mother and her young we decided that was not the case. They were Minke Whales (Petite Rogual) and though they have no teeth, only baleen. They have been known to eat small fish and to crowd them against the cliffs to make for more concentrated feeding. It was our thoughts that "she" was feeding coming up for a breath and noticed us. Perhaps she swam along the top more than usual creating a wake much like the bow of a boat would make before she went back down....just a guess...She could also have been coming up head 1st to make its catch near the surface. As it was each day we were to have the company of the whales, and though we had each encountered Minkies before this was certainly the closest of all for us.
That evening we were joined by another guide and her parents. We were now a party of six and the food they brought was a huge treat. Sept is harvest season. Potatoes, corn,carrots lettuce etc to go along with smoked salmon,trout & cod. Blueberries they had just picked...on the mainland I would vow that the blueberries grow from the north shore all the way to Labrador. Amazing it was.
Parc National L'Archipel de Mingan is divided into sections. We were traveling in the Western & Central sections. Then there is the East section of the Parc...beyound that.. outside of the Parc is referred to as East of East to Aquanish till the road ends at Natashquan or a bit there after...from there there are no more roads but a few settlements along the shore every 30 or so miles apart....there is much talk of beautiful paddling all the way up to Blanc Sablon. Labrador beyound that.
Don't know how far our trips may take us over the years but the coast of East of East certainly calls to us...
bon chance...
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