"Three Musketeers" of southern Utah and more - II

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Stan

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Newton, MA
Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon is only a few hours drive from the North Rim and passes the access road to the East Entrance to Zion. It is scenic and has several side attractions which we passed up in favor of more time in Bryce.

The National Park Service bills Queens Garden and Navajo Loop the best three mile hike in the world. I can’t dispute that. It is a loop from Sunrise to Sunset Points, we chose to start at the latter and hike counterclockwise to ascend more gradually to the conclusion. At Sunset Point the trail descends very sharply, courtesy a series of switchbacks, through colored limestone tunnels and a deep cavern known as Wall Street, past jagged and seemingly fragile hoodoos and into a dry but vegetated canyon floor. Soon the trail ascends through a microcosm of southwestern environments and the views around each turn are different and enthralling. The trail was very popular in both directions and it was obvious that some of the pedestrians were unprepared for the effort with inadequate fluids, footwear and fitness. Preparation and acclimation to the altitude are important to the enjoyment of even a 3 ½ mile, 400 foot elevation change … 115ºF hike.

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After a light luncheon snack and more hydration, we drove south on the park road for more vistas, a short walk to Piracy Point and an interesting and relatively sparsely used loop on Bristlecone Trail at Rainbow Point. The trail led along another canyon rim, this one over 9,000’ elevation, to a shelter overlooking mountains to the south. The trees at this elevation were not unlike the boreal forest, predominantly fir.

Numerous other hikes and backpacks are available in the park and various combinations of trails and loops are possible with the assistance of an extensive shuttle bus service. The 5 ¼ Rim Trail offers a spectacular sunrise jog along the canyon rim, with a shuttle back to your car.

Capitol Reef National Park

A trip into the backcountry inspires the imagination of what travel might have been like in earlier times, the climate and terrain tamed only partially by back country roads. We took a route known as “Loop the Fold” (so named for the geologic formation it loops), a system of secondary and gravel roads that, combined with highways 12 and 24, forms a 125 mile loop. We saw our last vehicle about 20 miles into the Burr Trail Road, except for a huge RV attempting to turn around at the first switchback in a series of many on a steep gravel grade into the valley. The next vehicle was on route 24, some 60 miles later.

We made two side trips during this ride. The first to Strike Valley Overlook over a road that had been washed out from a recent flash flood … the dry riverbed being in better shape to drive than the road in many spots. The hike up to the overlook was anticlimactic after the adventurous three mile drive in.

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The other side trip was to Cedar Mesa campground where we planned to camp out and were concerned, with only 5 campsites, whether there would be space. Not to worry … it was vacant. The late afternoon 95° temps didn’t discourage us, we knew the evening would be pleasantly cool, the flies and mosquitos didn’t discourage us, either, we had dealt with them before … no, it was the red ants that dampened our pioneering spirits and, like nomads before us, we packed up and moved on.

Capitol Reef has two kinds of hikes: easy and strenuous, there doesn’t seem to be much in between. Cathedral Rock is a billed a “strenuous” 3 ½ mile hike and it has great views. Many of the hikes are through canyons and washes where you must be alert to flash floods, again from storms out of sight. Some hikes take you to arches; all feature some interesting geologic formation and scenery. All are very dry, even one called Waterpocket Fold. You generally must carry all the water you’ll need. It is remote, desolate, rugged. If solitude is what you seek, you won’t be disappointed in the backcountry.

Reference materials and maps

My single most useful resource in selecting parks to visit and setting some direction on what to do when we get there is National Geographic’s Guide to the National Parks of the United States. (I recently acquired a companion guide to the state parks.) From there, most of my information came from the park websites which in turn provide links and, frequently, downloadable maps. For most National Parks I find the National Geographic series best. They are current with respect to trails, waterproof and contain details about trails as well as other valuable information. The NG series for Capitol Reef was NOT helpful; you need at least two maps (710, 707). A much better map, on paper, is the Hikers Map & Guide, containing lots of details and regulatory information, published by Capitol Reef Natural History Association.

A word/apology about the photographic quality; the photos were shot with a disposable camera with little or no editing. Maybe one day I’ll install the software to download off my camcorder where I know there are some gems … but by the time that happens I’ll probably get cabin fever and head out for a hike instead!
 
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