Allen, Marshall, Gray, Redfield, Cliff - an easy, breezy 2 days in the 'Daks

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albee

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I took Thursday and Friday off of work to hit the Adirondacks for a few days. I'm getting close to finishing the 46, but since the trip is 5 hours of driving from my house on the seacoast of NH, I have to make the most of it when I drive all the way over there. This was my 5th time making the drive, and these peaks would be #'s 40 thru 44 on my quest. Ah, to finally be closing in on the finish line!

I got started rather late on Thursday - 11:00 AM, I got my lightest overnight kit together and hit the trail at a brisk pace. I was joined by my friend Cory, who has completed a few rounds of the 46 and was incredibly knowledgeable of the area and all of the various routes to the high peaks. He is a real speed demon and one of the strongest hikers I have ever encountered. The ADK 46 speed record may be in jeopardy if he ever decides to seriously take a shot at it.

We reached the turn-off to the herd path in an hour and a half and dropped our packs and took one lightweight pack up toward the summit. It was a beautiful day and the weather would proceed to cooperate all weekend. We crossed paths with a woman that had just finished her 46 on Allen and was now on a dual quest - to get her dog to complete the 46 and to get her boyfriend to complete his redlining of the ADKs. I could feel the pride of her accomplishment emanating from her, and I couldn't help thinking that if I am lucky I might get the next number after hers on the list of finishers. We also met a fellow named Bill Allen descending the slide. He had just climbed Allen for the 20th time and I joked with him, "So is this YOUR mountain, Mr. Allen?" He had a chuckle and told us he was almost finished with his 20th round of the 46, and that even though he was in his 70s he wasn't planning to slow down anytime soon. Not bad!

We made it up to the summit in a bit longer than I expected - boy is that last mile steep! The views from the two viewpoints were spectacular - especially the eastern lookout. We were the 7th and 8th people to summit Allen that day - not bad for a Thursday! After making our way safely down to our packs, we headed off for Hanging Spear Falls and Flowed Lands. The trail starts out rather tame, but quickly deteriorates into a bushy, ferny mess, and I had to keep an eye on where I stepped to make sure it still looked like the trail down there. I couldn't see my feet - you call this a trail?!? Hanging Spear Falls was flowing a little too strong, so I couldn't get the spear effect. We completed the climb and came out at the abutments where the trail crosses the outlet to Flowed Lands. Cory waded across and I took my shoes off since I would need them to be as dry as possible for day 2. He followed me as far as the herd path to Marshall, then said his good-byes so he could hoof it back to his car and drive home to Albany.

I hit the herd path up Marshall at 6:20 PM. Cory told me it usually takes him 52 minutes to get up it, and sure enough, that's what it took me... 52 minutes! The trip along the brook had been a pleasure compared to the acrobatics needed while going up Allen, but the views from the top left much to be desired. There was no sign at the summit, only a small cairn. I looked around for a continuation of the herd path but that must have been it. I turned around and made it back to my pack in... you guessed it... 52 minutes. I picked up my pack and made my way to Colden Dam for a dinner of bagels, peanut-butter, and pop-tarts. I found one of the nearby lean-tos half occupied with a group of high school students from a nearby Christian camp, and they cheerfully allowed me to stay and provided entertainment as they went about their evening chores.

I was woken up at 4 AM the next day by a brilliant lightning and thunder display, and then a brief period of light rain. It was beautiful to see and hear the storm coming from a distance and passing quickly, all the while hearing the thunder echoing down the valleys around me. Someone must have forgotten to put a rock on the summit of Skylight! I got up with the leader of the high school group, aptly named Noah, and we chatted quietly for awhile over breakfast. I left my sleeping arrangements neatly packed at the back of the lean-to, and hit the trail under surprisingly clear blue skies at 8:15 AM. It took a while to get my legs under me, but before I knew it I had passed the cairns near Uphill Lean-to and I was making my way up to Lake Tear of the Clouds. I found the cairn marking the start of this herd path and noticed that it was quickly becoming overcast. 16 minutes later I was on top of Gray Peak, admiring the views in every direction. The summit of Marcy was shrouded in clouds, but I could see everything else around me and there were even some breaks in the clouds and blue sky peeking through. What a perfect day!

Back at the trail junction, I made my way down to Uphill Lean-to. I was really starting to pick up steam now and making good time. For a while that morning, I didn't know if I would be able to even make it up Gray, much less Redfield and Cliff as well, but I got my legs back under me and before I knew it I had blown by the turnoff to Lake Arnold and I was at the cairn for Redfield. Wow, that went by fast! I sat down for a snack a little ways up the herd path in a nice clearing. I was ahead of schedule, but then I realized that I had forgotten to budget time for descending Redfield in my plans for the day. I was expecting an hour up and an hour down, so I might be hiking out a little later than expected. Anyway, the path up Redfield was delightful. Whoever has been doing work on this route, I commend you - it looks great and there was so little mud and blowdowns, and it was tremendously easy to follow. Thank you! It took 50 minutes to get up to the summit, and I stood on the summit rock and admired views in almost every direction. I could see straight down to the Redfield Slide below me, as well as get a good vantage point for McDonnel (my new Holy Grail - I will find that summit some day!) and Skylight. I made it back down safely and retired to Uphill Lean-to for a proper lunch.

While there, I met a guy named Sean from "New Joisey" (that's what his shirt said!) who had gotten a little banged up on an attempt to climb Marcy that morning. He left his friends to summit on their own, and he was regretfully making his way back down to camp. I think talking to me for 15 minutes cheered him up, and we parted ways as I headed for Cliff. Cory had told me that there was a lot of old timbers lined up on the herd path to Cliff. He called them "corduroy", and I immediately recognized it as a sign of a road from old logging activity. This area was incredibly soggy, and the blowdowns left over from Hurricane Floyd on the Twin Brook trail were impressively tangled. Thankfully, the herd path branches off to the right, and I quickly gained elevation while navigating through the cliffs and rocky outcroppings. This would be another tricky section to attempt in inclement weather. I passed an assistant ranger at the "crux" of the climb, and she automatically started into the standard spiel about using bear cannisters, etc. I assured her that I have camped in the ADKs a few times before, and I know the regulations... quite an interesting place to be discussing this as we both clung to tree roots on an eroded and muddy rock ledge. I scampered up the rock and passed another group of 3 guys on their way back over the false summit. I made it to the true summit in 39 minutes, but on the way back I took a beating from branches and logs sticking into the trail. Lots of blowdowns had been cleared from that area, but this trail is still a tough little obstacle course. I have the scratches and scabs to prove it!

I was happy to be heading downhill now, and I collected my camping gear from the lean-to on my way by. I ran into the Christian campers again, this time doing trail maintenance on a set of stairs with a ranger. We said our good-byes and I began the 5.6 mile trek back to my car. Along the way I caught up with 2 guys from NY - Jim and Ken, and we shared stories of hiking, peakbagging, and track and field for close to an hour. I made it back to my car at 6:15 PM and took a well-deserved rest. 2 peaks to go, and I was headed for The Hostel in Keene Valley before a couple more hikes on Saturday and Sunday. The Noon Mark Diner took good care of me that night, and I slept like a baby on a nice soft bed. It doesn't take much to make me happy, but it's times like these that you realize how many things had to go right to have completed such a perfect trip. The ADK Gods must have been smiling on me!
 
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Nice TR !

Too bad you couldn't tag McDonnell along the way. I was thiking of doing it from the Elk Lake Lodge (I'm guessing it's a private trail and that we must sleep there in order to gain access...)

I had a similar trip last winter except I slept at the Uphill Lean-To, then tagged Skylight/Gray/Redfield/Cliff and missed Marshall the day after because I followed some snowshoes tracks directly onto Flowed Lands and I wasn't to open trail again in 8" of snow, had done my share at that point :D

Where/when do you plan to finish ?
 
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BlackSpruce said:
I have been told that your friend Cory is in fact very soon taking another shot at it!

A .5-mile section of Hanging Spear trail is a bit overgrown but compared to bushwhacking directly from Allen to Redfield it's a breeze....

1) As of yesterday, Cory has no plans to attempt the record any time soon. After hiking with him for 23 hours over the course of 3 days, I think he would have mentioned something if he honestly felt he was ready. He knows and respects that this is an undertaking not to be taken lightly, and he is still gearing up his training for longer endurance-based events. I would guess his first attempt will come next September or October.

2) Thanks for pointing that out. Bushwhacking anything off Allen looks pretty nightmarish with all that blowdown. Maybe I'll try it sometime when I'm not peakbagging under time constraints. Any idea why that trail by Hanging Spear Falls isn't kept up?
 
Quite a drive, isn't it? 101 - 93 - 89 - 4 - 22 - 74 - 87 - 9 - 73....
I got to know that route well. I knew I had the Adk jones bad when I got stopped for speeding in Queechee, Vt. at 3 a.m. on a cold November morning in 1997.
What's the plan for #46? And, of course, you must whack MacNaughton after that to make it 47....
jt
 
albee said:
I passed an assistant ranger at the "crux" of the climb, and she automatically started into the standard spiel about using bear cannisters, etc. I assured her that I have camped in the ADKs a few times before, and I know the regulations...

Albee, Colden Dam area is probably the worst area in the ADK High Peaks for bears raiding food stashes. Where did you stash your food?

Also, what and when is #46?
 
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