Alpine routes

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john_hilgeman

New member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
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Location
melrose, ma
Hi all,

just moved here, really enjoyed the winter.. now I am planning adventures for the warmer seasons. Does anyone know some good alpine routes in New England or perhaps suggest a good guide? I'm looking for multi pitch 5.? to 5.9 routes that lead to a summit.

hey, thanks
 
Welcome!

Not too many pointy summits around here, so even the best alpine routes typically require some hiking from the top of the climb to the summit.

Mt. Washington: Pinnacle Route and Pinnacle Direct finish in the Alpine Garden. Also, Cannon Mtn. has several big routes and the top of the cliff is near the summit.

In NY, Wallface features several alpine routes. Also, a lot of the "slides" finish on the summits, although they're generally 3rd class.

In NH, Ed Webster's guidebook is pretty definitive. People at IME in N. Conway know the scoop.

In NY, Don Mellor's "Climbing in the Adirondacks" is definitive. People at The Mountaineer, or at Adirondack Rock and River guide service know the scoop.

Have fun!
 
Here's the Armadillo from Chimney Pond

adm.jpg


It's the big flake at the bottom of the ridge in the center of the picture.

Note: that if you go you will need to check in with the ranger at Chimney Pond.
 
Last edited:
spire

Hey about the only pointed summitt in the Whites is the Eaglet in Franconia notch. This is located directly across from the old man of the mountain parking lot, its a detached spire, providing 2 long or 3 short pitches, rated about 5.5,if you take the standard route through the chimney, this is in websters rock climbing guide to the White mountains. Ive had 4 people sitting on the top and it was cramped. Just do beware,Perigrin Falcons have nested there for years and there are annual closures to allow them some peace, it should be posted during thses times.
 
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