Carter Notch Hut to Zealand Falls Hut (July 11, 2009)

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leaf

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First and most important: This hike was undertaken to raise money for the Multiple Sclerosis Society, a personal cause for me. I won't get into detail here. Feel free to visit http://www.nationalmssociety.org/goto/hike4ms. All the information is there. I'll be posting a longer TR there for the supporters who are unfamiliar with the White Mountains.

This hike was intended to be a 24-hour Hut-to-Hut Traverse, but bad weather forced us to bail at Zealand Hut.

Hikers: ferrisjrf, unfrozencaveman and myself
Support staff: do truancy (stand-in for mtnmama)

As prep the day before, I ate a mountain house meal for both breakfast and lunch. I also hydrated all day with nuun tablets. Dinner was a foot-long sub. Not to mention I made sure to get 8 solid hours of sleep two nights before.

The Night Before

All four of us gathered at lonesome lake after work to spot our cars and Isabelle kindly sacrificed a peak in the name of driving us to 19 Mile trailhead. Much appreciated! After some liquid carbohydrating, Jason, Steve and I headed into Carter Notch to stay near the hut that night. We went at a moderate pace, leaving the trailhead at 8:30pm and arriving at 10:10pm. Like a bunch of rowdy teenagers, we hung out outside the hut, eating dinner and cracking ourselves up with dirty jokes. We were in our sleeping bags by 11:00pm. I didn't get much sleep but know I did catch some zz's between 1:45am and 3:45am.

Carter Notch Hut to Madison Hut 4 hours 9.9 miles
We were awake by 3:45am and running by 4:13am. *bang* Gun sounded and game on! Besides the uphill getting to the junction of the Wildcat A trail, I ran. I don't run in real life. In fact, the longest I've ever ran (on asphalt) is 6 miles, skimom is witness to that, and I couldn't move for three days after it. Never tried before, never will try again. :p I was wearing my $2 running shoes for this hike (and my keene sandals in my pack for relief later in the hike) and they served me well. Incredibly, to myself anyway, I broke free from Steve and Jason about 0.1 miles after the uphill and put it into full gear. The first 1.9 miles to the junction was in the dark then dawn broke. I ran all the way to the trailhead, with a quick stop to drop my sleeping bag and bivy sack for Isabelle to pick up later (THANK YOU), threw on the iPod and ran the 0.5 miles down the road to the Great Gulf trailhead. Funny that the first song that came on was Daylight by Coldplay. I made it to the register in 1:10, arriving at 5:23pm. I was happy with that and continued to trot on the flat sections of the Great Gulf trail until the Osgood began to climb.

Jason caught up with me as I was heading up Mt. Madison. The biggest climb of the hike, arguably, until Garfield miles and miles away. I put away my tunes and chatted with Jason while trying to walk uphill as fast as I could. There's no reason to try to run uphill.. the energy output vs. the speed gain isn't worth it. We knew Steve wasn't far behind. Soon we reached treeline and began the arduous task of climbing up and around and over the rocks on the Osgood. I think, by far, it's the most rock-strewn section of the entire Presidential Range. Soon we saw Steve and his orange shirt in the distance about 10 minutes behind. A quick hoot and holler, equal to a thumbs up, and we kept moving. We passed a large number of folks as we descended Mt. Madison and reached the Hut in 4 hours! I was impressed with our time. Steve, which I found out later, had his food stash stolen by a bear and was hurtin' without breakfast. But he was still strong despite and reached Madison Hut only 10 minutes behind at 8:23am. Jason stayed with Steve who hammered down a 1/2 dozen pancakes and I set off after a 10 minute break of popping two Aleve and snacking a bit.

Madison Hut to Lakes of the Clouds Hut
3 hours 6.8 miles
We met Farmer at the Madison Hut as he was gearing up for an out and back double Presidential Traverse. :eek: Awesome Farmer. I said "I'm sure you'll catch up" to Jason, put my iPod back on and trotted away to the tunes. I went around Adams on the Gulfside (AT) Trail and down, reaching Edmunds Col in an hour. Then up and around Jefferson. There was a bit of a headwind coming around Jefferson and Clay, but nothing too bad. Most of the time, the wind was refreshing. A few dark clouds were lingering above but it didn't look threatening at that point. The sun was in and out. I ran all the sections that were flat and/or level. Jason caught up to me while I was making my way up and around Mt. Clay. Tunes off and conversation on. We could see Steve about 15 minutes out and gaining. We saw alot of families hiking the closer we got to Lakes of the Clouds. Jason stopped to chat with the little kids, but I just pushed them out of the way. ;) We made the hut in 3 hours, 7 hours into the hike. Steve gained us and again, reached the hut exactly ten minutes after us. And then I hear a friendly "Hey Guys!" It's LRiz! She had done a solo up Mt. Washington to surprise her dad running the Washington Road Race, awesome! I got a super energizing hug and a stash of badly needed Ibuprofen. Thanks LRiz!! I was starting to get a headache but they helped relieve it, especially on the Southern Presidentials where the clouds departed and sun started to bake me. Another 10 minute break, some pancakes, I was off again ahead of Jason and Steve, knowing of course that they'd catch up. iPod back on. I think the iPod was probably the most important piece of gear I had with me. Kept me running and in the zone, for sure.

Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Mitzpah Hut 2 hours 4.8 miles
Mitzpah is 4.8 miles out from Lakes Hut and I figured it would take 2.5 hours. It only took 2 hours, which made me happy. I was pretty surprised I could maintain the pace I did. Running the flats and downhill sections, hiking the uphills. Once at Mitzpah, we were 9 hours into the hike (run) and I thought that was decent time. We went around Monroe, Franklin and Eisenhower. Jason caught up with me just before the junction of the Eisenhower summit loop trail. Steve was about 3 minutes away. Lots of families hiking this section too. Funny to see some peoples reaction to a girl with headphones on and running. :cool: I did take one tumble off Franklin (luckily noone saw! :eek:). My ankles tend to give out every so often, the left one mostly, but wearing heavier boots are too uncomfortable and slow me down so I opt always for low cut sneakers and deal with the occasional ankle roll. This time I couldn't catch my roll and fell. Not bad though, just a cut on my finger, but it was bleeding like crazy! So I went into my meager first aid kit and found one really old band-aid that lost it's sticky power and put that on. ;) Mitzpah wasn't far, i'd patch it up further there.

We hit Pierce and I stopped running for a second, looked back, saw the view and said, "Not too shabby." and kept going. This guy having a picnic with his kids said as I took off, "What? It's beautiful!" I was on a mission. :D At Mitzpah, another ten minute break. I was able to update my facebook status to let people know the progress, patch up my finger with a fresh band-aid and Steve's duct tape, eat something, drink.
 
Mitzpah Hut to Zealand Falls Hut 4 hours 8.3 miles
Once again, off ahead of the boys with my iPod on. I cranked down Crawford Path like I was fresh in the morning and hadn't hiked a mile. I felt really good. In fact I was feeling strong all day.. just pounding out the miles with energy to run when the uphills relented. I felt like I was in the best shape of my life right then and there. I ran all to the way to the railroad station next to the Highland Center in less than an hour. Jason arrived 5 minutes after me and then Steve another 5 minutes after. We figured we were somewhere at the halfway point but didn't calculate it out (we were right, we'd gone about 24 miles at that point) and it was 10 hours in. Not bad, but the prospect of having to hike up Garfield and then Lafayette felt just as welcoming as jumping into a fire.. on railroad tracks.. while a train was coming.. and rabid wolves everywhere. I was feeling a little tired, but I knew I still had some stuff in me. We might have been at the mileage halfway point but the toughest part of the hike was ahead of us. There wouldn't be many sections up ahead to make up for any lost time. Alot of uphills.

The first uphill was Mt. Tom, which really goes up hill. :eek: I wasn't carrying hiking poles with me because I usually never hike with them. I find they get in my way more then they help. But going up Tom I felt like I could have moved alot faster with them since I have pretty good upper body strength. Lesson learned. Jason cruised ahead at this point and I lagged behind. Offered for Steve to go ahead, but he said it was fine. So Steve and I walked uphill. I think I made us lose an hour of valuable time, making this stretch 4 hours instead of 3. Even on the way down the A-Z trail, I should have been running to gain time but I couldn't find the energy. I figured a good rest stop at Zealand and some food was in order. Still though, 8.3 miles (2 of them uphill) in 4 hours.. still ok at this point. The nuun electrolyte tabs I kept putting in my water bladder at each hut stop was starting to make my stomach feel lousy so I didn't drink enough. I was dying to get to the hut to empty it out and put plain water in. I think I was starting to O.D. on that crap. :p

We reached Zealand Falls Hut exactly 13 hours into our hike and 29.8 miles later. Unfortunately, the weather was really turning. Dark grey clouds and whipping winds. We all got concerned since it was 5:30pm and we'd be hiking above treeline come dark in potential 50mph winds, hard rain, some hail and lightning. Our concerns were validated by the hutkeeper's weather forecast. There were some serious storms moving in. Going up Mt. Tom I was getting really chilled because I wasn't moving fast enough to produce enough body heat, which is always compounded when you are tired. I turned back from Galehead during my Double Pemi attempt last year because the signs of hypothermia was real. You combine all these factors and hypothermia in July can happen. Nevermind the fact that getting hit by lightning ranks up there with the fire, train and wolves.

We made a collective decision to bail, since it was only a 2.2 mile walk out (not including the road). I had suggested we go to Galehead and assess but Jason and Steve were much smarter than me and explained we'd be in a pretty bad situation if storms rolled in and our bailout would be much harder and longer.

Aftermath ;)
Next time I'm bringing hiking poles! Thanks to Isabelle for sacrificing her hike up Mt. Moriah to cart us to the trailhead and grabbing our roadside stash. Thanks to mtnmama who had offered to help us with the car spot, but got tied up, so I hired Isabelle. Thanks, of course, to Steve and Jason for being as nuts as I am. But not only are you as nuts, but you are faster and stronger hikers and you guys definitely inspire me. I felt myself slow pretty bad up Mt. Tom and even up the small incline to Zealand Hut and I'm not sure if I had it in me to make the 24 time goal. I knew you guys had a real possibility of doing it.

I feel after 30 miles, my body loses too much energy and I can't refuel it to the point of continuing with the strength needed for long distance hiking (running). I didn't really train for this, since my Alps trip kept me occupied with other training regimes, but overall, I was very happy with my performance. Still not sure what my time would have been if the weather was cooperative. I didn't see that storm front in any of the forecasts and I was frustrated to see it approaching. I would have postponed otherwise. I'm not sure whether I'd try this again. I can't commit myself to do the amount of training required for me to get my body to the point where it needs to be for a 24 hour, 53 mile, 15,000 ft ele gain hike. I still think I could have done decent time, otherwise of course I wouldn't have set-up a fundraising event around it, but I might never know. Other activities and passions in my life are/will be taking priority over long distance hiking.

My Plan
Next month I hope to finish where I left off. I'm gathering my boys again and we'll be starting from Zealand Falls Hut at 5:30pm and try to make it to Lonesome Lake Hut in 11 hours.

Final Words
Sorry this TR is so long!! I just wanted to conclude by extending my most sincere appreciation and gratitude to the folks who donated and provided support to me for the Hut-to-Hut. You've helped raise almost $2,000 for MS! I'm astounded and deeply touched by it. I can't thank you enough. :D
 
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Great effort!

That was an awesome effort, Leaf! Jason and Steve, too! We stopped in at Greenleaf and left a message for you guys not knowing if you'd even get it. I figure you'd have been pretty zombified by then.

When I was talking to the AMC folks at Greenleaf and told them of your attempt they were very surprised that "civilians" were attempting this! :eek: "She's not an AMC ridgerunner?" "Nope." "She's doing this why?" "To raise money for MS. She has a friend with it." Wow! She must be quite a girl!" "Yes!"

K, J&E
 
What a great effort for a great cause. I never cease to be amazed by the things that hikers will do to help others. This goes way beyond the norm though. Definitely something to be proud of on many levels.
 
Fine trip report, Leaf, and great effort all three of you. Probably a good call to bail at Zool, especially if you were running light without rain/wind gear, etc.

One of my hiking friends bailed at Crawfords where I rescued him in a west-east H2H solo attempt two years ago; he wants to pick up where he left off this summer, so I am tempted to join him for the eastern half, but I will not be running any of it. :)
 
Great effort and great cause. I am sure this was tons of fun. :D

Some great times there fo' sure! Court, now stop this hiking stuff and get back to climbing...;):rolleyes::eek:
 
Great job Courtney

The cloud cover was very intimidating as I drove through the notch and over to Barnes and I was really wondering how you guys were doing,especially while standing around the fire in a heavy downpour.You made the right call.
Too bad you had to endure those 2 slackers,I'm sure they only held you back.;)
 
Hey Court -

Nice work! Mother Nature is fickle, but glad you got as far as you did in such good time! And I'm sure it was good motivation to have those two nipping at your heels!
 
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E for Effort Leaf, UFZ and Jason! You guys kicked some serious rear-end until you ran into a situation beyond your control......

There will be more opportunities........

If Leaf had a fan club I would join it......
 
Was thinking of you guys and wondering how you were doing.....:rolleyes:

Smart move to bail when it could of become dangerous...we have so many more climbs/hikes adventures ahead...:D

Great job to all three of you and Court!! You're the best to give so much to a worthy cause!!! :)
 
Court, now stop this hiking stuff and get back to climbing...;):rolleyes::eek:
Hah! Exactly the reason I can't commit to the training regime required for another 50-miler!
Craig said:
Where are all the pictures? ;)
Hehehe, I had to purposely leave my camera at home. It was hard. :eek:
Sasquatch said:
Too bad you had to endure those 2 slackers,I'm sure they only held you back.;)
I wish. :cool: Suebiscuit had it right.. having them at my heels helped to keep me running!
Mats Roing said:
If Leaf had a fan club I would join it......
As long as you don't turn all "Misery" on me, you're welcome to be my #1 fan ;)


Thanks everyone! For your thoughts during the hike and all these nice things you said. :D
 
nice job folks. that's a hard trip even if weather did stop a complete hike.
i did this hike once back in my "leaner years" going from lonesome lake to carter. in the end it took me about 28 hours and was one of the hardest days (and four hours) of my life. might have been 27 had i not passed out for an hour on the trail heading to carter notch. don't think i've walked right since. i give lots of respect to anyone who gives it a shot. no doubt you'd have made it with better weather.

nice work for a good cause.

bryan
 
Great effort!!! Thought I might run into you on Garfield Ridge. Had the chance to enjoy the storms.
You definitely made the right call.
We covered 1.7 miles in a blazing 4.5 hours. No the numbers aren't reversed :eek:
 
Well, like Jason said - I suck! I have a lot of stuff going on in my life right now and don't always get to everything in a timely fashion but....

Have to say, this was definitely a fun hike. I had no idea what would come of all of this when we set off. And, for the first time in my life, I understood what real athletes go through as far as nerves are concerned. I've done some hard hikes, some pretty long hikes, but never have undertaken something this big.

I did quite a bit of preperation for this in the sense that I was doing long hikes, sleep deprivation hikes, and put in some big mile weekends, but I was still lacking the confidence to start this with the "Oh yea, I got this" attitude that I normally have. I guess looking at trying to hike 50 something miles in 24hours can do that to you....especially if all you are is a weekend warrior and not a real athlete.

In the end, we definitely made the right call - going into the conditions that popped up would have been stupid if we were fresh and just starting, nevermind having been hiking for a 1/2 day and close to 30 miles.

Good times people, good times.
 
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