Crazy….Night Hike to Bondcliff

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Periwinkle

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I think it’s now official. I’ve confirmed that I am in fact hiking obsessed. And a little crazy. :) Solo night hiking to Bondcliff probably qualifies me as certifiable.

Why would anyone do such an insane trip? Because I wanted to go to tree line. I’ve been missing it since last fall. Since I work a lot, scheduling doesn’t readily work out. So, when a last minute opportunity came up, I impulsively decide to go for it. My buddy Mike was hiking the Twins and Bonds with his dog, Goliath. He offered to take my pent-up black lab with him so Chappy could hike too. I would leave after work that night and meet them on Bondcliff. That was the plan.

We’ve pulled off quite a few crazy last minute agendas, from my first 4000’ footer to Mikey’s last, and lots of hair-brained schemes in between. This, in retrospect, was the mother of all half-baked ideas.

I’ve always wanted to night hike in. I’m not a morning person (understatement of the century). I’ve done more than my share of headlamp hiking coming out, something of a night stalker: Elvira, Queen of the Night Trail. Why not head in?

So, I started up the Lincoln Woods trail at 10 p.m. Saturday night. I wasn’t too worried about it. From prior personal experience night hiking, I now know that the Boogeyman does not live in the WMNF. I refuse to succumb to baseless anxiety. What’s the worst that could happen? Trail head bandits and critters bigger than me wanting trail right-of-way. There was nothing to fear but fear itself.

Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t completely oblivious to the dangers. If something went wrong, there would be no chance of help from passersby. I was on my own.

Right off, I was scared spitless. I kept thinking about an encounter last week when a bear and I scared the crap out of each other. And here I was in a similar scenario, hiking along a noisy river, reducing my chances of hearing or being heard by a bear. Bells were jingling along as I walked, headlamp blazing. What I hadn’t figured on was the ground fog from the river reducing visibility. Not good. Nor was having my headlamp blink as it switched to battery backup. Finding my backup light missing and having to change the headlamp batteries holding up a cigarette lighter wasn’t much fun either. I tightened the headlamp straps to be sure it wouldn’t fly off and break if I tripped. Having to bivy in the woods with no light would have been a complete horror show.

When I reached the turn-off sign for the Bondcliff trail, I was thrilled; hoping that as I started to climb the fog would be left behind. Since I hadn’t hiked the trail before, I stopped to read a copy of the trail directions again. Moths besieged me. To keep up a little noise and vent more than a little frustration, I cussed them out, “I’m going to kill you all you little mother &*@%#!$. Come here so I can kill you” and so on. Loud tirade complete, I set up onto the trail in better spirits.

The Boncliff trail was surprisingly easy to follow for a wilderness trail. I actually rather liked it. The first two water crossing were easy enough. The little bit of world surrounding me had become bigger as I finally left the fog behind and the clouds from an earlier thunderstorm dissipated. It was comforting to be able to see further ahead up the tunnel of trail and catch a brief glimpse of the moon.

Even more comforting was finally hearing another human voice. At 2 a.m. I radioed Mike as planned. I’ve never been so happy to hear someone’s voice. I had been feeling so alone, limited to the bit of world I could see, and frankly still a little scared. It was comforting to know there was someone else out there with my last worries ahead of me.

As it turned out the only “tricky” section at the third crossing wasn’t that bad. For once, I was grateful to see flagging tape left behind to follow, especially where the trail directions didn’t seem to jive. After that, a toad hopped across the trail, the only creature I would see all night. None to fearsome. All that was left to worry about was the infamous ledge. I found even it wasn’t the monster obstacle I’d envisioned. It was a breeze, even for my stumpy little legs.

At 4 a.m., I popped above tree line. I’d made it. I was back.

A deep blue sky greeted me. A hazy moon glowed, the first natural light I had seen in hours. Color was returning to the world. I switched off my headlamp and looked up the wide open rock face. It was all remembered and even more after hours of darkness. As I meandered up the ridge, familiar bird songs heralded morning. Soon enough, streaks of pink tinted the clouds as the sky lighted to pale blue. The sun was rising. The long night was over.

With the comfort of morning light surrounding me, I gratefully succumbed to a two hour nap. The smell of coffee woke me. Mikey had hiked enough water over from Guyot to not only refill my depleted supply, but ply me with my requisite two cups of java. I was good to go.

We headed back down the Bondcliff trail. The ledge proved to be no problem with the dogs. Mike’s fearless St. Bernard bounded down vertically. My phobia-ridden lab whimpered, then followed the very faint west bushwhack. From there on in, it was a leisurely stroll out with frequent rests at the stream crossings.

One of the lightest moments of the day came when we meet up with three women at the junction of the Wilderness Trail. They had camped nearby the night before. Around midnight, they had heard strange ringing sounds and faint muttering in the distance. Mystery solved. It had been me and my bear bells, cussing out moths!

From there, it was an easy hike out with a refreshing but bracing swim in the Pemi. Back to reality.

All in all, it was an awesome trip. Would I do it again? I don’t know. Probably not, but maybe. Was it a wise choice? Not really. I know that.

I did learn a few things:

  • After six hours, a firmly affixed headlamp will produce a colossal headache (apply bandana head padding).
  • Always check emergency gear sack to ensure essential items are there (like back-up light)
  • A second headlamp is key. If I do ever do this again, I’ll carry my old Petzl headlamp so I don’t have to worry so much. Even if I had the mini-mag backup light, it wouldn’t have been sufficient to navigate by in fog.
  • The world is smaller without light, lacking color and clarity – although I can hike faster without distractions, so much is missed. Too much.
  • Most importantly, the mountains are always there, waiting -- when I finally reached Bondcliff, it was just as I remembered it. Even if I had not continued on, it still would still be there, serene and stunning.
I’m grateful that the trip was successful. It was awesome. That being said, I may just have pushed the envelope on the whole night hiking thing. I’m just so glad to have gotten back out there.

P.S. I feel this post should have a disclaimer. I’m not suggesting anyone else should do this unless they also have done a good deal of night hiking and are very comfortable solo. Even then, it really wasn’t the best of ideas.

P.S.2 Well, I think I’ve made up for not posting in ages with this tome. :) However crazy it was, it was good to be back out on the trail to tree line, and good to be back here too.

P.S.3./Edit: Just read this after posting and saw my old signature quote line on it. LOL. That takes on new meaning now.
 
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A fine insanity. Sounds like an interesting experience and probably the coolest time of day to hike this weekend.

-dave-
 
Watching dawn break from Bondcliff must have been awesome! Thanks for sharing your nocturnal adventure. :)
 
Peri ....what an awesome trip report.
Can't wait to hike at night. You picked
one of my favoirte places to hike in the White's.
Thanks for posting the lessons learned.
 
Why am I jealous? Was it because it was Bondcliff, solo, at night?? Very nice!!
 
I enjoyed reading this report. I wouldn't do it, but I enjoyed reading about you doing it.
 
Periwinkle said:
One of the lightest moments of the day came when we meet up with three women at the junction of the Wilderness Trail. They had camped nearby the night before. Around midnight, they had heard strange ringing sounds and faint muttering in the distance. Mystery solved. It had been me and my bear bells, cussing out moths!

Fantastic trip report! Right up there with Tom's postings (aka Tom and Atticus). I love night hiking, and now carry three headlamps, with extra batteries. Your paragraph above reminds me of a story told to me, Frodo, and Stinkyfeet by Andrew Thompson (AT speed record summer 2005), while joining us for one of our 48 NH4s day trips in winter 04/05. It seems that Andrew was hiking/running into Bond Cliff late one afternoon when someone heading out chastised him for beginning his hike so late in the day, he would be caught by darkness, blah, blah, blah, blah. So, Andrew decided that he would not only tag the Bond Cliff summit, but also on his run out catch up with this person who was so concerned about his safety. Well, darkness did ensue and he did not catch up with the hiker, but he did catch up with a mountain biker below Franconia Bridge, and shouted, "I am right behind you!" To which, the biker turned his head to see only a bobbing cyclops-like headlamp indeed on his tail, invoking continuous blood-curdling screams from the biker, who began pedalling even faster. Needless to say, Andrew was able to stay right on the biker's tail all the way to the turn onto suspension brdige at Lincoln Woods, where the biker continued straight ahead towards the Kanc, still screaming in fright.
 
Doesn't sound crazy to me...

I frequently get back to the car well after sunset. On one solo XC ski trip, the sun set on me 12 mi from the car--got back at 2:30 am (no moon and overcast skies).

We also used to do a night hike on Monadnock--the goal was to leave the car after sunset, summit (via Pumpelly Tr), and return before the sun rose. We would pick a night with a full moon and try not to use our headlamps. I have also done some other avoid-the-headlamp hikes where I used my poles as feelers (think insect antennae...).

I have also taken to carrying 3 headlamps when solo--a main light (BD Zenix IQ or PTech Yukon HL) and two lightweights (Ptech Auroras) and extra batteries. It sure helps to have a spare (or two) when you need to work on one of your lights. A pinchlight makes a good last-resort spare (or spare for working on another light).

I use the minimum required light intensity to maximize my battery life. (Easy to do with modern multi-intensity LED lights.)

A GPS can be a nice backup in case you have naviagtional problems in the dark.

Doug
 
I'm waiting to hear the trip report from the other night solo hiker that heard in the darkness:

“I’m going to kill you all you little mother &*@%#!$. Come here so I can kill you.”

:D
 
Dr. Dasypodidae said:
To which, the biker turned his head to see only a bobbing cyclops-like headlamp indeed on his tail, invoking continuous blood-curdling screams from the biker...

Maybe the biker heard the same Pemi Train Man story I did, about the ghost that supposedly haunts the old rail trail swinging his lantern. I was very glad not to see anyone else with a headlamp out there, I'll tell you!

DougPaul said:
I use the minimum required light intensity to maximize my battery life. (Easy to do with modern multi-intensity LED lights.)

A GPS can be a nice backup in case you have naviagtional problems in the dark.

Most of the time, I needed the incandescent high beam on to see anything. I was only able to switch to the LED setting a few times further up the Bondcliff trail.

I did have the GPS with me in case I missed the Bondcliff trail junction (though it was easy to find as the trail narrows noticeably past the junction) or walked off the trail at the third stream crossing. I never did need it, but was glad to have the backup when I had to make decisions to move forward where the trail direction wasn’t 100% certain.


And thanks to all for the positive comments. It's good to know that the spirit of the adventure came across in the trip report. As for comments about the trip itself, I was half expecting "are you nuckin' futs?!" I'm sure some are thinking that, but keeping it to yourselves! :D
 
Cool trip and report. Not crazy in my mind at all.

In fact, one of the trips sapblatt and I talked about last year was a moonlight presi traverse. Didn't happen, but I still think its a cool thought. Something sounds exciting and adventurous about being up on the ridge at night. To me anyhow
 
WOW! Awesome trip report, and an awesome trip!

What a great idea, glad it all worked out so well for you.

Not crazy, but adventureous! :)
 
Periwinkle said:
Maybe the biker heard the same Pemi Train Man story I did, about the ghost that supposedly haunts the old rail trail swinging his lantern. I was very glad not to see anyone else with a headlamp out there, I'll tell you!
I've skied the Pemi Wilderness/Lincoln Woods Tr in the dark several times. Haven't seen or heard any trainmen. Maybe they only come out in warm weather...

Most of the time, I needed the incandescent high beam on to see anything. I was only able to switch to the LED setting a few times further up the Bondcliff trail.
I generally find that the medium setting of a PTech Aurora is adequate in summer (low on snow) for hiking an easy-to-follow trail. Fast skiing requires more light to see a distance ahead.

You might try keeping the light off when hiking a familiar, easy-to-follow trail as the evening gets darker. Most people's night vision is better than they are aware of. (Takes 20-30 min for full night visiion to develop.)

I did have the GPS with me in case I missed the Bondcliff trail junction (though it was easy to find as the trail narrows noticeably past the junction) or walked off the trail at the third stream crossing. I never did need it, but was glad to have the backup when I had to make decisions to move forward where the trail direction wasn’t 100% certain.
Last time I was there, there was a prominent sign marking the junction. And a big suspension bridge not far beyond...

I was half expecting "are you nuckin' futs?!"
Many of us are guilty of that charge...

Doug
 
Wow - away for a while then you come back in style! I'm definitely jealous; it's a hike I would certainly do, and I'd probably spook myself into the same fears. When I did Franconia Ridge as a night loop, I remember the feelings in the woods, and how they melted away as soon as I got to the moonlight-bathed treeless top. It's like being on another world.

Crazy? Sure! That's the best way to be. :)
 
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