Eagle slide vs Trap dike

[buddy]

Thanks for the replies to my earlier slide ? . How does the Eagle slide compare with the Trap dike slide. It sounds like the rock isn't nearly as grippy. Is there more exposure on Eagle. I felt very comfortable on the slide section of The Trap dike climb, is that a fair comparison. Buddy

 

[Skyclimber]

The Eagle Slide is much more difficult than the Trap Dike. Much more exposure.

 

[Guinness]

In my opinion, the Eagle has much more exposure and extreme conditions than the Trap Dike. I have done the Eagle Slide 3 times and the Trap Dike once. I found only one 20 foot section on the Trap Dike that I thought was an area of high caution. The Eagle has several areas where caution is warranted. The slide section after the Trap Dike to the summit does not compare with the full Eagle Slide.

 

[NYBRAD]

I would have to agree with Guinness. I've roped up for the lower section, and the headwall on Eagle. The Dyke is more vertical in sections, but provides ample holds and secure resting areas. Eagle is more of a long, calf burning, straight up friction climb, more comparable to sections on the Chapel Pond Slab than the Dyke. I think it takes a bit more technique, and experience in friction climbing than the Trap Dyke does. Both are uniqe and excellent though.

 

[TCD]

Having done both, Eagle a couple times, Dike many times, I'd agree. Eagle has longer sections of steep friction, and parts are a bit dirty now. If you exit the dike at the early exit (top of waterfall), you can catch some steep friction, but not as exposed or for as long as Eagle. On the other hand, if you like friction, but vertical exposure throws you, the little waterfall section on the dike could be hard for you (it's about 25-30 feet close to vertical, though easy).

 

[Pete_Hickey]

One major difference between the two, is that in the dike, your route is pretty much laid out. EVERYONE hits the waterfall, and EVERYONE goes up it pretty much the same way, using the same handholds. And that's the tough part on the dike. The slide isn't much.

On the eagle slide, you don't have that, and a choice you take at a lower section, may force you into a very tough section later on. In my three times on the Eagle slide, I've found that taking the easiest route is not always best, because it will leave you in a bad spot later on. You can get into some VERY tough sections on the Eagle slide if you don't take the proper route, and it isn't obvious which is the proper route.

 

[Neil]

How would you rate the toughest sections in the dike? 5.5? 5.4?
I get the impression that friction climbs are harder to rate than rock climbs. Do you agree?

 

[AMF]

How would you rate the toughest sections in the dike? 5.5? 5.4?

As I recall from the Big Red Book (Mellor), Trap Dike does not go above 5.0 (which technically means it requires hand & footholds to progress), whereas on Eagle Slide (cl. 4) you are still basically "walking", albeit steeply (yeah, right... just don't walk with your hands in your pockets!).

 

[TCD]

Actually, I think the 2nd waterfall on the Trap Dike is considered 4th class. Meaning that a rope may be required by some people. 5th class (5.0, 5.15, etc.) means that a rope and fixed belay points are generally required.

The holds are flat and big on that section, which is why it's easy, even though it's steep. The holds are big square cut, blocky deals.

But rating any climb is always subjective. If I'm in doubt (let's say I'm taking non-climbers up the dike and I don't know how they'll feel about it), I bring a short (like 50') rope just for that spot.

 

[Tom Rankin]

Actually, I think the 2nd waterfall on the Trap Dike is considered 4th class. Meaning that a rope may be required by some people. 5th class (5.0, 5.15, etc.) means that a rope and fixed belay points are generally required.

The holds are flat and big on that section, which is why it's easy, even though it's steep. The holds are big square cut, blocky deals.

But rating any climb is always subjective. If I'm in doubt (let's say I'm taking non-climbers up the dike and I don't know how they'll feel about it), I bring a short (like 50') rope just for that spot.

I was told the climber's books list the Trap Dike as a climb. Does anyone have a climber's reference book? Certainly in winter it is a technical climb.

Not having done technical climbing in a long time, and before reading your post, I rated it as 5.3. But having just read your post, I guess a '4' is really more in order.

When we went in July, we did bring a rope, and I helped Laurie up one tough part by grabbing her hand, but we never used the rope.

 

[TCD]

The Trap Dike is listed in Don's climbing guide, but if I remember right it's associated with the slide climbs more than with the 5th class climbs.

In the winter, things can be even more variable. I've climbed it when the waterfall was a 30 technical ice pitch, (probably WI2), and I've also climbed it when it was choked with snow, and the ice wasn't even showing, and I never had to get the short ice tool off the pack. But you're right, I would always go prepared for it to be technical in the winter.

Best winter trip in the daks is to climb the trap dike and ski the 1990 slide.

 

[iceclimber]

Class 3 - Handholds necessary, increased exposure, dangerous falls possible

Class 4 - A rope is used to protect the hard sections, but the climbers generally move simultaneously - Examples: the waterfall section on the Trap Dike or most of the Case route on Wallface.

So, to clarify, don't even try to say either climb is 5. A class 5 friction climb, if that is what you are looking for, can be found on the right side of Chapel pond slab. I think it is a 5.2, when you scramble up to the knob. Regualr Route and Empress are both 5.5.

If you want some pics of those climbs, check out my small forum below.