Elusive one day Presi Traverse-

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DreamFarmer

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
317
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Location
Boston Hills, WNY
I was so excited to have another shot at this : Many thanks to my patient and beautiful wife !
I left home, south of Buffalo, at 2PM on Saturday , 8/16 and drove to the Crawford Notch Highland Center where I dropped my bike (about 11:30 PM) and then drove the Mt Clinton Road and the Jefferson Notch road to get to Appalachia Trailhead.
I wanted to scout this route for my bike ride after the traverse was done. It sure is dark and "closed in" at night. I shut my car lights off and drove part of the way by headlamp (holding it out the window) to make sure there would be sufficient light to bike safely. When I flicked my car lights back on a huge owl was coming right at me ! Those lights must’ve shocked the hell out of him… I think he yelled WTF in owlese.
So by 12:30 I was trying to get comfortable for a 3.5 hour nap in my Corolla. Although I didn’t sleep much I kept telling myself at least my body was resting. About 4:15, I changed and readied myself and by 4:45 I departed on the Valley Way trail. A half hour later I encountered 2 moose ,30’ away, who bolted after a couple seconds. What a rush !
Who needs a cup of coffee to wake up when you can have 2 moose in your face ?
By 7 AM I was at Madison hut and by 8 I was back down Madison and taking a break before heading for Adams.
The wind on Madison was unlike anything I ever encountered and I was hoping I wouldn’t have to put up with that on every summit. You had to fight the wind just to plant a trekking pole which pretty much rendered them useless….plus I didn’t really feel comfortable trying to stand upright because you didn’t know what the next blast of wind would do to your balance. So , proceeding on all fours made a lot of sense, many times this day. Another new annoyance to deal with was the pounding and noise of my jacket and hood flapping in the wind…no matter how tight I adjusted them. This will be something to consider for future purchases.
I think I summited Adams about 9:30 where I had the worst wind of the day. You really had to concentrated to make your moves in between the blasts of wind. Clouds were blowing across the landscape still leaving lots of open views.
By the time I got to the top of Jefferson, the clouds had moved in and long views were pretty much gone. As I worked my way towards Clay the clouds were thickening , the wind was constant and I missed the beginning of the Clay Loop. I think having the hood up, the flapping of my jacket and the clouds threw me off. I was there 8 weeks earlier and I don’t know how I could’ve missed the sign. Once I realized I missed my turn, I “rock-whacked” up to the summit and shortly after took a long break in a protected spot.
I couldn’t see Washington at this point but I recalled I still had some work to do to get there. I figured I’d try a different approach so I followed the West Side trail that went under the Cog R/R and around the mountain before heading up to the top. This was a mistake and mentally a real drag because I couldn’t see where I was going in relation to anything and it seemed to go on and on. Finally at 2:30 I was at the summit of Washington. I refueled had some coffee and debated quitting. The wind ,clouds and mental fatigue had given me a good whuppin. I hoped for some good news “weather wise” from the information desk and got none. Then I decided to continue on reasoning there were 2 huts along my route that , if necessary, I could take refuge in.
I worked my way down to the intersection of the Crawford path and the West side trail and decided to quit. There were too many unknowns to feel comfortable with. Unknown trails, weather conditions that could get worse, finishing after dark...etc.
So, back up to Washington for the next challenge: getting back to my bike(Crawford Notch) or car (Appalachia). $42 gets you a one-way ticket down on the Cog Railroad but that wouldn’t help me much. The shuttle service gives rides to Pinkham Notch Center for $26 ..so that was a go. There were 2 shuttles leaving at 5 and I canvassed the riders for a ride to Appalachia from Pinkham Notch -no luck. Once I got to the Pinkham Notch Center, someone suggested I call a fellow known for cheap shuttle service. I hung around until 7PM waiting for a call back and then paid a hiker who was on a “scouting mission”, $20 for a ride to Appalachia. It was great to get back to the car where I immediately drove back to Pinkham Notch for a shower and a change of clothes. That is always so nice !
As the sunlight was fading I drove back to the Highland Center at Crawford Notch by following route 16 to 302. As I was hoping, I scored some ready made “deli-snadwiches” along the way….which were fresh and wonderful. By the time I got to the Highland Center I decided to stay there because it was dark and I didn’t feel like checking out Dry River or Dolly Copp to see if I could even get a site, let alone set up after dark. Plus, I was going to hike the Willey Range the next day which is right near Crawford Notch.
There was room in the “bunk-house” and for $40 I could get a bunk and breakfast. I was beat, so I stood outside and had a beer (always cold beer in the cooler) and was asleep by 10.
At 5:30 Monday morning I woke up and decided to get back up to Washington and finish the Presi Traverse. At least I’d get to see what I’d been missing and although the forecast was for possible thunderstorms, I’d have all day to work with and would ,most likely,finish before dark.
Breakfast was served at 6:30 so I slapped an egg and bacon sandwich together and took off. I drove to the lot near the Cog Railway, paid $3 for a parking tag and headed up the Amoonoosuc Ravine Trail. If you like a good stretch of intense climbing, this is your baby ! This would take me too Lake of the Clouds hut where I continued on towards Mt Washington to the intersection where I’d stopped the previous day. Then I turned around and headed back to the hut for a break and a look around.
It was windy and the clouds were covering Monroe.
I hung around a little while at the hut since the benches outside were in a protected spot.I ate and stretched. There wasn’t much hiker traffic. I still couldn’t see very far but at least I could see Monroe when headed for it. I really like that mountain. The way it sits, the path up to the top, and there is a little protected “nook” near the top which I couldn’t resist visiting for a while. The clouds were clearing and the views down into Gulf were spectacular. I could’ve stayed there a long time but I had more unknown trails to visit and I wanted to get as much done as I could before any thunderstorms hit. By the time I finished Franklin, the sky had cleared and
there were spectacular views in every direction. Even the wind had died down. It was even clear up on Washington, whose summit was visible for the rest of the day. It’s really neat to turn around and look back towards Washington as you work towards Pierce.
At the beginning of the descent into the col before Eisenhower, I took a long break to dry everything off and remove my boots and socks (never did this before-Nice!).
From this spot ,the view towards the Pemigawasset Wilderness is incredible. Just mountains on top of mountains ,on top of mountains x 5 ! I want everyone I love to see this sometime. It’s downright eye-watering.
It was a perfect day and I was in a perfect spot. I reflected for a while and counted my blessings. Then, I went to Eisenhower and took another break. What a perfect cairn on that summit. Onward I strolled to Pierce and down to Mizpah Spring Hut . After another break ,removing boots and socks , it was 3:30 and I figured I better head down. I had enough hiking and still had a little bike ride to do.
It was 4:30 by the time I hit Mt Clinton road and I headed over to the Crawford Notch Visitor Center to get my bike. What a very accommodating place.
I slowly rode my bike back to the parking lot, getting off to walk up the hills I encountered. It was a hot afternoon and I was a sweaty stinking mess by the time I got back to the car. I used a gallon of extra drinking water and a towel to clean up and put on some clean cotton clothes…these are great moments...and then,of course….theres the cold beer in the cooler…

I lucked out and got a site at the Dry River campground, $23, and set up my tent and whipped up Chili-Mac dinner from Mountain House. You can guess how good this goes with cold beer . By 8:15 it was getting dark and I slithered into my tent for the night . A nice storm hit with lots of rain and lightning and it was great being all snuggled in the dry tent. More rain the next morning as I hunkered down under my tarp sipping hot cider, hot chocolate and coffee. Then I used THE BEST coin operated showers I’ve ever seen. Clean, spacious, lots of hooks, a nice bench, good hot water and a generous amount of time for each quarter. I’d stay there just for the showers ! By 10 AM I was heading back home. I’m done trying the one day traverse for this year but at least I know the route now.
 
Good attempt - and good call to bail.

We were just behind you at the Madison Hut area heading south on the same hike. After reading the latest forecast posted at the hut it was clear to us we would bail mid-hike if the forecast proved to be accurate. At that point, returning to a vehicle would be difficult. We bailed between Madison and Adams and went for another of our planned August hikes.

It's interesting how the forecasts at 1:00am can be as wrong as they were for 5:00am - 6:00am the same day. Evidently the NWS made a major change to their forecast of around 4:00am (which is re-published by the MWO for the day). This was the forecast that was posted at the hut. It didn't look good.

Sorry for your outcome but I'm pretty sure you'll be back again.

It's going to feel great when you finally nail it! ;)

Good luck on your next attempt.

:)
 
Wow, I must have passed you at some point... Yes, the wind was wicked on Adams & Madison, and lousy on Washington, but the Southerns were relatively calm. Not trying to burst your bubble, as I may have made the same decision had I been hiking alone. This was my 1st Presi traverse!!
 
Jason Berard said:
Sounds like a great trip to me.
I especially liked your descriptions of looking back to the Rock Pile, and looking
west to the Pemi.
Ditto
Sounds like an awesome trip! And don't worry, its still elusive to many of us (raises hand).
 
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