ice climbing Pinnacle Gully this weekend (10/22)?

[iceclimber]

To all of you NH guys:

I was wondering what your opinions on a traverse up Pinnacle Gully this weekend would be. Specifically, I know the summit of MT Washington is winter and icey at the current moment, but what about the Huntington Ravine?

I know it would be thin if any ice, but is there enough snow and ice for protection?

Any comments would be greatly received, thanks!

 

[ChrisB]

I imagine it would be very sketchy, but you never know. It will likely get climbed, cause some folks actually enjoy moving over verglass!

Given the amount of snow (grapul?) that fell, you also might want to browse the avalanche reports.

Not sure if you are aware of http://www.chauvinguides.com/conditions.htm , but it usually has the most up-to-date condx reports for the Mt Washington Valley and ravines. Scroll down for condx on specific routes.

cb

 

[iceclimber]

much appreciated, thanks.

 

[tig]

Huntington avalanched in the storm

I did infact hear that huntington did avalanche in this past storm..so do be careful out there...

 

[WindFarmer]

Early season ice usually has it's share of dangers. I'd wait. A good source for ice climbing specific info is neice.com.

I usually do a yearly trip into Tuckermans around Thanksgiving to get on whatever ice has formed at that time. It's usually thin, poorly protected and sometimes detached from the face from freeze and thaw cycles.

Last year - the yearly trip nearly cost me my life when a telephone-booth sized icicle came unglued shorty after I passed.

Be careful out there... it's early season for sure.

 

[iceclimber]

adkclimbs.com!

Early season ice usually has it's share of dangers. I'd wait. A good source for ice climbing specific info is neice.com.

yeah, but i prefer the up and coming adkclimbs.com </end plug>

Last year - the yearly trip nearly cost me my life when a telephone-booth sized icicle came unglued shorty after I passed.

Be careful out there... it's early season for sure.

Wow, glad you were over the icicle! I think my girl and I will haul the gear up to the ravine, if for nothing more than to get her out on the whites for the first time Thanks everyone.

 

[ChrisB]

I would definetly go, and be flexible about what you end up doing.

If there is some decent snow cover, Central Gully can provide a nice romp.

If it is a total melt-out, one of the buttress routes (Damnation) might be a possibility, or even the 5.7 standard rock route.

It's all good early-season conditioning!

cb

 

[snowman]

people were up there yesterday (conditions on neice - this ain't no ice climbing forum)...still mucho running water and verglass. but rockytop did say central was fun and things are changing quickly.
the next month or so is good work 'sick day' season as huntington will be the only place to climb (other than black dike) so it tends to get big crowds on weekends until other places form.

 

[Quietman]

FYI From the observatory site

Well the results of this past storm in the Ravines and the upper cone of Mt. Washington were impressive. I can't remember the first significant storm of the season ever producing as many substantial snowfields, that in my opinion, are here to stay. Due to the warm weather during the previous week snowfall on open rock is in the process of melting quickly, such as on the Headwall and Bowl of Tuckerman Ravine. But in areas that have substantial grass and scrub and are in the lee of NW winds, like Left Gully, picked up copious amounts of new snow. Although Left Gully picked up by far the most snow in Tuckerman other high lee locations with E through S aspects received nice pillows of snow as well. The top of Hillmans, Right Gully, and Right Right Gully (Lobster Claw), are some good examples of new snow pockets. Moving over to Huntington Ravine I was quite impressed. In addition to Left Gully the presence of cornices over Yale, Damnation, and even high over Henderson Ridge surprised me. O'Dell's, Central, Yale, and Damnation all filled in quite well and from a distance look close to viable snow climbs. However, I would be patient as I am positive many areas possess a thin veneer of snow over rock. The main fact for early season climbers clambering to get out to remember is there is literally NO ICE at all. Do not expect to protect anything with ice gear. We are just getting into cold weather and the mountain has a fair amount of running water so patience will payoff eventually.

 

[NYBRAD]

There is a good video up now of rockytop doing Central yesterday. I also believe Odell’s was done. I would also expect things to be very crowded there this weekend especially Saturday, with the forecast for bad weather on Sunday. I wouldn't bring much ice pro, but a small alpine rack might ease the mind. Can't wait!