Lookout Mountain, Chatanooga, TN - Feb. 25

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Stan

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This is the third of four hiking areas Erik and I visited on our month long road trip. The first two, Guadalupe and Big Bend National Parks, are on my essential list for any serious hiker, or any serious tourist for that matter. They are both part of a dramatic and desolate desert-mountain scene that is unlike anything we have in the Northeast. How anything or anyone survives here is part of it's fascination. The sight of these areas and the breath of dust kicked up by those unrelenting winds strikes a chord and gets my feet moving, sort of like the joyful noise out of a West Texas dance hall.

Lookout Mountain was not a destination, merely a stop on a route that took us through Chatanooga. It's main appeal is to those with an interest in the Civil War, for it was the battle for Chatanooga that sealed the ultimate fate of the South and it was Lookout Mountain that was the next to the last line of defense.

(The last line of defense was Missionary Ridge to the east, where a Union charge exceeded the expectations and the orders of the generals who watched with a mixture of shock and then amazement as their soldiers overran the retreating rebs. Leading this charge was a young soldier who recovered the flag from a fallen comrade and running up the hill with rifle, flag and exhortations to his company, easily overcame the Confederate resistence. This soldier survived the war, returned home with honors for his heroic deeds here and elsewhere, married and raised a son who attended West Point and became a commanding general in WW I ... a grandson followed that path and also became a general in WW II ... we are more familiar with his name, General Douglas MacArthur.)

Back at Lookout Mountain the battle was a lot quieter but not without it's heroes who, in this case, were six volunteers who scaled the palisades that formed a natural barrier on all sides of the mountain. Armed and again, carrying the flag, I doubt these young men carried much in the way of technical climbing gear. History suggests some approximate locations where they may have scaled the walls but, to me, searching for the possible routes from the trails below is what made the hike interesting. Upon their arrival at the summit, the climbers were surprised and relieved to learn that the enemy had retreated ... to Missionary Ridge.

Lookout Mountain is fully developed. A National Park occupies the summit and luxury homes dominate the plateau and the roads enroute. The trails, however, quickly escape that environment and lead to continuous vistas of the Tennessee River Valley below, largely developed but impressive nonetheless. We hiked one of the trails from the top down and at one point were able to take a side trail back to one of the summit roads and a road walk back to the Park center.

If you come to Lookout Mountain, forgive it for the lack of solitude or wildness. Come here instead to tread through a part of history and appreciate the accomplishments and the hostile setting to young men far from home ... and especially the "peak bagging" of those six volunteers.
 
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Did you See Rock City or Ruby Falls?

When I was newly married our first apartment was just over the crest of Missionary Ridge later we lived very close to Kennesaw Mtn Park and the New Hope battlefield in Georgia. Being interested in Civil War History I was very aware that many young people died on the very spot where I was now living.

For the start of my AT section hiking back in 88 and 89 I did a lot of warm up hikes in Kennesaw Mtn Park. Although pretty much an urban park now it has some nice areas to "get away" from the Atlanta hustle and bustle. ( Just don't get killed when crossing State Road 120) The mountain itself is only 1800' and a drive up but has a nice view of the city. Best times to go are Oct- Apr otherwise you'll roast.

Jim
 
Maybe we need yet another Social Group, for hikers who are also Civil War buffs.

A prime location for those, which you have probably already explored, is Harpers Ferry. The AT goes over Loudun Heights, where the ghosts of Confederate trenches linger, through the Old Town, then over the Potomac on a RR bridge to the base of Maryland Heights. A terrific non-AT network of trails take you to the height of that imposing rockpile, where the most important fighting took place in Stonewall Jackson's capture of the Federal garrison in 1862, just before Antietam - the largest surrender by U.S. troops until the Philippines in WW II (which brings us back to MacArthur).

The Chattanooga area has been at the top of my list for years, so I got a special kick out of your Report. It was General George Thomas who led that amazing charge up Missionary Ridge, which in hindsight was certainly a turning point in the War. He was a Virginian, so the top brass always looked at him a little askance, I've read, which may be why he didn't get the top commands he seems to have deserved.
 
Did you See Rock City or Ruby Falls?

No, though Rock City sounded especially interesting but my interest quickly diminished in proportion to the admission fees ... and the fact that we were only allowing a half day to visit and hike before getting back to the road for a few days in North Carolina's mountains. That incline railway ... makes the cog rail look like a flat line.


Maybe we need yet another Social Group, for hikers who are also Civil War buffs.

A prime location for those, which you have probably already explored, is Harpers Ferry.

The history of any area adds a dimension to hiking that makes it interesting and enjoyable for me. Sometimes it's the Civil War, sometimes the Revolution, sometimes the geological history (e.g. at Guadalupe I was humbled to know that it was once under water), sometimes the evidence of prehistoric civilizations. We did visit Harpers Ferry last spring but the weather put a damper on the site-seeing and hiking we might have otherwise done.
 
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