More ?s about the Tetons

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spencer

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Well, I've asked for your help before and now I'm looking for some more specific info. I was lucky enough to have some VFTT help me out with materials and I'm looking for some specific experiences in the Tetons.

Joanna and I are going during the last week of June through the first week of July. We aim to hike the Teton Crest Trail for a few days and then have a go at South and maybe Middle Teton. We might hook up with Exum for a class or a climb.

So, what do you all know about the Teton Crest Trail in that season? Someone I spoke with at the Park suggested crampons and an axe and another Park person suggsted just 'shoes (for the TCT that is). Suggestions for South and Middle climbs would be welcome, too!

tell me some stories about your experiences...

thanks in advance,
spencer (and Joanna)
 
I am in the process of planning a trip to the Grand Tetons/Yellowstone for next summer and I will most likely do the Teton Crest Trail. I have not decided on exactly when, but leaning towards August or early september.

I posted a thread earlier at
http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10495

And I am still looking for hiking companions. Anyone interested, let me know.

and I bought the 2 books that were suggested on that thread and they seem like good books to get started:
"Hiking Grand Teton National Park" by Bill Schneider (Falcon Guide)
"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Leigh N. Ortenburger, Reynold G. Jackson

I too would like to hear from anyone's experience.


Matt
 
spencer said:
... Suggestions for South and Middle climbs would be welcome, too!

South & Middle are basically walk-ups. Middle offer the potential for more challenging routes, but the trade route up Middle from the the South / Middle saddle probably doesn't exceed grade 3. Normally ice free, although a few snow fields will linger.

amf
 
Olivia has done the whole TCT, while I've just done sections. IMO an axe and crampons probably wouldn't be necessary in late June / early July, though you could expect to find snow. By routefinding and traveling at the right time of day (corn cycle, ie after the snow warms but before the 3pm thunderstorms) you should be able to avoid no-fall snow fields). Axe and 'pons could be useful for some gullies, but South and Middle are class III and the easiest (standard) routes are primarily ridge and ledge, not shaded gullies. Of course, if you bring the axe and 'pons, you will have greater security -- there is some exposure beneath sloping snowfields -- but if you go the "Ray Way" you should be able to leave the teeth at home. As for snowshoes, I've never used them in the high Tetons -- the corn snow tends not to be that posthole-prone.

For luxury's sake (given the nature of the trip), consider riding the tram up (one last time before it's gone) -- saves much vert and a lot of dust and sweat.

Ortenburger's book is a must, even if you don't climb 1% of what is described. The Trails Illustrated map is actually quite good for GTNP, by the way.
 
I bet you've seen trails closed at Baxter in June because of snow ... you may need to be prepared for winter conditions. Trailheads start close to 7000 feet. I'd check with the park service just as you're packing and see what to be prepared for.
 
We did the Teton Crest Trail, but it was in September, not early in the season (http://www.pbase.com/pudgy_groundhog/tetons). I would think you might want an ice axe/and or crampons for Paintbrush Divide, but I wouldn't know for sure. Either way, it was a fun backpack and I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I also second the tram suggestion.

Also, if it works out for you, I would highly recommend checking out Schwabacher Landing at sunrise.
 
I just got an email from a friend who lives in Jackson, saying they've had more snow there this year than in the last 10 years. So, a June hike may need to contend with more snow than usual. In June you may find some extensive and even steep snow on the couloir routes up South and Middle.
I've hiked/climbed there only later, in August. For an August day hike it's hard to beat the Paintbrush Canyon/Cascade Canyon loop. But in June snow for sure on the divide.

A nice warm-up hike with good views: Table Mt, on the west side.
 
As mentioned, the Ortenberger climbing guide is a "must have" if you plan to do any of the summits.

Middle Teton:
Depending upon conditions at the time you go, you MAY want an axe and crampons. The upper section of the class III route is a steep couloir. If you're lucky, and climbing early enough in the season, it's reputed to be good cramponing on snow. If you hit it in summer conditions, as when I was there, it's a an exercise in ascending / descending vast quantities of loose rock and scree.

Exum Guides:
I was in the Tetons on short notice and wasn't able to find a partner for the Grand at the AAC climber's ranch (found partners at the ranch for Middle and some rock climbs), so I signed on (to do the Grand) with Exum. Nice folks. Met several of their guides at their intermediate climbing course (req'd to do the Grand) and at their camp; all great people.

Other stuff:
If you're into class 4 scrambles, take a look at the East Face of Teewinot. IMO, it was more fun than the Middle or Grand.
 
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I have a pretty extensive writeup of our scramble up the east face of Teewinot. Unfortunately on the way down one of our members who was inexperienced with steep snow had an uncontrolled slide. Banged up pretty good but nothing fortunately very serious.

Also I have a writeup on a long but otherwise easy 2-day backpack into the Shoshone geyser basin in yellowstone. Both are part of my 2003 out west summer road trip.

The Shoshone backpack is on page 5, here

http://alavigne.net/newHomePage/Outdoors/TripReports/Rockies2003/index.jsp?navpage=story_5

and the Teewinot climb is on page 6, here

http://alavigne.net/newHomePage/Outdoors/TripReports/Rockies2003/index.jsp?navpage=story_6
 
Matt,

Another book to consider is 'Hiking Grand Teton & Jackson Hole Trails' by Carl Schreier; Homestead Publishing, 1998, ISBN 0-943972-21-3. Have no idea how it compares to the Falcon Press book. I was planning to do some hiking, but ended up climbing most of the trip (with a visit to Yellowstone and two days of kayaking thrown in for good measure) so the book didn't get used all that much.

Couple of things to consider...

Some of the trails out there are signed for riding (horseback). You probably want to avoid those, if possible.

And there is lots of wildlife; bear were plentiful when I was there. Met one up close and personal when descending the trail from Teewinot to the Lupine Meadow trailhead. Yeeha!!



Andrew,

Nice write up on Teewinot. That must have been one heck of an experience. :D

Congrats on your climb.
 
Good to hear that at least some parts of the country are having a good snow winter. In mid-June 1971, the snowpack in the Tetons was sufficiently deep to allow Bill Briggs to ski from the top of the Grand, the first person to do so.
 
Back between 1974 and 1983, I had the opportunity to take 4 trips to the Tetons to climb some of peaks (without guides) and also hiked a good part of the TCT. Here's a link to a picture of one of the climbs we did in 1975, the Direct Jensen Ridge of Symmetry Spire (rated III, 5.7 at the time). The climb goes up the ridge on the right side of Templeton's Crack which is the prominent black line just to the left of the summit: Jensen Ridge

On the way down, we were doing a standing glissade on the snowfield below the climb when one of my feet broke through the snow. I pulled it out and looked down the hole to see a brook running steeply downhill underneath the snowfield about 15 feet below me. That was a close call. :eek:
 
If you're looking for some good reading to get you excited about your trip (or just good reading for any reason), I highly recommend Teewintot by Jack Turner (an Exum guide). I can't say enough good things about this book. I thoroughly enjoyed it. It is insightful and inspiring and makes me want to get out to the Tetons myself. A fantastic read. You won't be disappointed.
 
Hot Tip on Teewinot

I agree that this is a great climb which offers wonderful views of the Grand. It is not technical, but there is a challanging 4th class section on it. It's easier going up than down. One thing to remember on this climb is when you're moving up the obvious gully, which you're nearly in the whole way up, do not go to the top of it. The summit trail turns right about 300 ft. before topping out of the gully. The actual tippy top of Tewinot is like none you've ever been on, as it's about the size of your buttock with 1000's of feet of air below your feet in all directions. Yahooooo.................. kowabungga!
Happy Trails to you, Reekee
 
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