Once in a Blue Moon! The Maine Event! (Merged 4 parts)

[Pete Hogan]

We’ve all been there…somewhere…anywhere…sometime…anytime. Whatever we experienced in that moment of time and place, it was as close to perfect as one can get. Indeed, there are times in life when you just happen to be in the right place at the right time.

I recently had such an experience during the week of August 19 – August 24, 2013. It was during this time that the third of four full moons in a season took place. That celestial phenomenon is commonly referred to as a blue moon. It was also during this time that I planned to hike some of the 4000-foot mountains in the Rangeley/Stratton region of northern Maine.

So this is the story of months of reading, research, detailed planning, and personal training that preceded a 323-mile drive on a long-awaited date and time. All of this put me in a particular place during a specific period of time and resulted in one of the most exceptional hiking experiences of my life. My days in Maine exceeded all expectations and made me wonder (in light of the astral event that occurred) if the expression, “once in a blue moon” might be an understatement. Whatever the reason for such good fortune, I am truly thankful for being in the right place at the right time.

Originally planned as a solo trip, I was happy when my wife decided to travel with me. Having her to come home to after a hike makes a huge difference in the quality of the overall experience – from just sharing the stories of the day, to watching spectacular sunsets, to recovering quickly for the next day’s hike to just being there.

After the reservations were made and the trip plan finalized, I received a message from a friend who had previously hiked with me. Clay Olds (aka “Rookie” - ADK High Peaks Forum and “Dream Farmer” - VFTT) also expressed interest in the hikes.

So what was left? Ah….the weather. Well, I’ve had very good luck in the past when extended hiking trips have been purposeful scheduled during a full moon phase. So why would this time be any different?

A brief narrative of each hike preludes the photo link. Admittedly, there are many photos even after several screenings. I hesitated to reduce the images any further because the sequence and captions illustrate the elements that made the hikes so memorable. I have captioned nearly all the photographs so the essence of the story was could be told now. The “rest of the story” will be documented in my personal hiking journals.

You might want to enlarge the photos to full screen capacity and set aside enough time to review them at your leisure. Also, since the comprehensive captions tell the tale, consider pausing any auto slideshow format so you can read the details in addition to advancing and repeating the photographs at your own pace. I’m not a professional photographer, but I honestly believe you will enjoy these photographs as much as I did taking them.

Monday, August 19, 2013

Old Speck Mountain

My wife shuttled me from Bethel, ME to the trailhead in Grafton Notch State Park where I was to rendezvous with my hiking partner. Clay Olds and I hiked together in 2009 in the Waterville Valley of the White Mountains. I was grateful to have such a strong and dependable hiking partner. He made a big difference the successful outcome of all the hiking days we shared in Maine.

A hike to the summit of Old Speck Mountain doesn’t seem that challenging on paper until you start climbing it. The 2720’ vertical ascent is a “lung duster”, but Clay and I were ready for the challenge. We both responded well to the cardio-respiratory “talk test” as we chatted along the 7.6-mile RT. The summit tower was a necessary adventure as we were blown about by strong winds, and beautiful views.

We visited with a couple of AT northbound hikers and a few others, but there wasn’t a lot of hiker traffic and we returned to the trailhead by mid-afternoon. The timing was nearly perfect (a sign of things to come during this wonderful week) as my wife met us there within moments of our return.
The day ended in Rangeley, ME at our respective lodgings, preparing for the next day’s hike. Kathy (my wife) and I spent the waning moments of the day at the Summers Overlook in Rangeley captivated by a stunning sunset over Rangeley Lake. We were also awestruck by the magnificent moonrise on Saddleback Mountain Road….on the eve of August’s blue moon.

Here is the photo link to Old Speck Mountain! Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/107373...&authkey=Gv1sRgCOaO-fqhhMvNTQ&feat=directlink

 

[Pete Hogan]

Once in a Blue Moon! The Maine Event! (Part 2)

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

The Bigelow Range Traverse

This 13.4-mile loop was a “dream come true”. In every way, this day exceeded all expectations. It will be an unforgettable memory of unparalleled scenic beauty and incomparable hiking.

It was the day of the August blue moon and the forecast was ideal. The weather and destination of today’s hike suppressed any residual aches and pains from yesterday’s Old Speck hike.

After a delicious and entertaining breakfast at the Looney Moose in Stratton, Clay drove his Corolla “Crusher” unscathed down the first leg of the Stratton Brook Pond Road and proceeded to boldly continue the rest of the way to the trailhead at Stratton Brook Pond. His Toyota would have put a Humvee to shame and Clay…well Clay made it look easy.

We both agreed on a 13.4-mile, clockwise loop ascending via the Horn’s Pond Trail to the Bigelow Range Trail/AT and descending the Fire Warden’s Trail. Our decision to take the longer approach to West and Avery Peaks proved unquestionably satisfying. Even the prolonged physical demands were overwhelmed by the extraordinary scenery and vistas experienced on this marvelous hiking day.

After a lunch and water re-fill at Horn’s Pond, we simply took our time with the 655’ ascent to South Horn and rested when necessary. It really wasn’t long before we arrived on South Horn (3805’) gazing down to the rooftops of the Horn's Pond lean-tos where we had lunch. A look east left us feeling a bit intimidated by what lay ahead of us. Seeing that long approach rising up the Bigelow Ridge to West Peak, 2.1-miles distant was psychologically daunting, but the process of ascending this route was why we choose this direction and we were determined to enjoy the adventure as much as the summits. What looked like a challenging uphill approach to West Peak, was actually a moderate, forested, side-hill traverse for about half the distance followed by a wide-open rocky pitch to the summit of West Peak. Sometimes, what you see is not as bad as it looks.

An hour and a half after leaving South Horn, we were on the fantastic summit of West Peak (4145’). The vistas were indescribable! Flagstaff Lake dominated the northern perspective and the Carrabassett Valley the southern. For any east or west view, there was only the extraordinary Bigelow Range accentuated by weather conditions that brought about an HD quality to the landscape. Arguably one of the greatest ridge walks in the east, we took some well-deserved time to take it all in before continuing on to Avery Peak.

The drop to Avery col was quick. We decided to ascend the boulder-strewn path to Avery without our packs and arrived in short order to enjoy the 4088’ summit by ourselves. What we thought was the best view on the ridge at West Peak was now being replaced by Avery Peak. Along either side of what was visible of the Bigelow ridge was rugged topography, green forests, blue waters and clear skies as far as the eye could see. This was truly a day of unforgettable mountain hiking.

Noteworthy in our descent on the Fire Warden’s Trail was a remarkable achievement of trail engineering and grueling, physical work - a hand-built, natural stone staircase. It was a dizzying 1500-foot descent and we carefully stepped on each painstakingly-placed stone until we were on terra firma working our way back to the Horn’s Pond Trail junction where we closed the loop. Our return to the trail head was uneventful and Clay safely negotiated the narrow-gauge, roller-coaster obstacle course in the Corolla “Crusher” back to the more civilized Stratton Brook Pond Road.

With 21 miles hiked in two days and over 5900’ of vertical climbed, we agreed on a rest day for Wednesday, August 21. We were so pleased with our achievements thus far and were looking forward to another challenging hike on Thursday.

Here is the photo link to the Bigelow Traverse! Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/107373...authkey=Gv1sRgCKS9iYDTnIDW2QE&feat=directlink

 

[Pete Hogan]

Once in a Blue Moon! The Maine Event! (Part 3)

Thursday, August 21, 2013

South Crocker, Mt. Redington and North Crocker Mtns.

It was “hump” day…actually “two hump” day.

Clay and I decided on tackling the notorious CVR Road and the three, 4000’ summits to the north. Two of the summits are on the Appalachian Trail and the third can be reached either by way of a series of logging roads or an old-fashioned bushwhack from the South Crocker summit. After considering both options, I wanted to do the bushwhacking for a couple of reasons, not the least of which was my experience with trail less peaks in the former canister days of the Adirondacks. “Hump one” was going after and hopefully finishing this challenging hike.

“Hump two” was that today would be my last day with my trusted hiking partner. Clay had a previous commitment and would be leaving early Friday morning. So making the best of this day was something we both needed for success to be affirmed.

The Caribou Valley Road (CVR) started off bumpy, but soon turned into a rock-strewn, tire-biter. On Monday the logging road was “graded” which actually uncovered more rocks along the 3.9-mile route. Clay drove cautiously, but expertly and the Corolla “Crusher” performed flawlessly with only a few minor nibbles. From the parking area, we quickly walked to the AT crossing and were on trail by 7:30 AM.

The weather forecast called for t-storms by 6 PM so we changed the climbing order of the day and put the Mt. Redington bushwhack after South Crocker (rather than last) in order to finish the bushwhack earlier in the day and have a trailed path to follow in case the storms arrived sooner than predicted.

Just after the Crocker Cirque Campsite spur trail, we encountered two young women from the Maine Conservation Corps working on the trail. We thanked them and talked briefly about the incredible spiral staircase on the Fire Warden’s Trail that we descended from the Avery col two days prior.

We turned upward to begin an 1800’ vertical ascent in a mile that felt a lot longer than it took. The route was part rockslide, part rubble, roots and dirt…and all steep.

By the time it leveled out, we were close to the summit spur trail to South Crocker Mt. where we chatted with Moxie and Bearbell, two personable NOBO AT hikers. We didn’t linger long because the most challenging part of the day was next and I was anxious to see what we were up against.

I came prepared for the bushwhack with extensive reading and research. The research revealed an individual on VFTT who had completed it several times. When I contacted him to seek his experienced counsel, he was willing to share his comprehensive knowledge and insight into the intricacies of the herdpath. I am very grateful to Marty for his notes and willingness to share his valuable information. Thanks Marty!

The haphazard herd path was discernible, but on occasion, face protection and defensive maneuvers took priority and the path was temporarily lost, but regained without a problem.

After a cautious descent of twists, turns, blow downs, sudden drops, and numerous pokes and prods, we emerged in a clear-cut area. Checking the sky when visible, we were so fortunate to do this in dry conditions. We would have been drenched by rain and the closeness of the balsams and visibility certainly would have been compromised as well.

The now more obscure path wound it's way through the clear cut and ended on an old logging road. We followed the road uphill and located another rough path that became more defined as we ascended. That path turned out to be the summit path leading us to an obvious summit clearing. After a brief bushwhack to find the canister, we located the illusive summit cylinder hidden in a balsam thicket.

Clay and I proudly signed the trail register in the canister, took the obligatory summit photos and found a good place to sit for some lunch. It had taken us one hour and fourteen minutes to bushwhack from South Crocker to Mt. Redington. We were very pleased with our temporary success, but we still had to find our way back.

We actually improved our time on the return bushwhack to South Crocker motivated to move quicker by darkening skies and the desire to have this part of the journey behind us.

Without any fanfare, we now had a 2-mile, 920’ round trip to North Crocker and back to South Crocker before we started the final descent on the AT back to the CVR.

The push over and back to Mt. Redington took more out of us than we realized and we didn’t feel it until we started the final, prolonged ascent to the North Crocker summit clearing. We were very happy to see that opening in the trees and celebrated briefly before returning to South Crocker.

Clay was low on water and was looking forward to refilling at the stream near the Crocker Cirque spur path so we started down the steepest mile ever so cautiously. We both were very mindful that an accidental misstep or stumble would be a serious mistake.

Our descent was happily highlighted by a number of northbound AT hikers who Clay shuttled to the trailhead outside Rangeley on Wednesday. We were so impressed with the genuine gratitude each and every person expressed to Clay when they recognized him. “Hey! You’re the guy who drove me to the trailhead from Rangeley! I can’t thank you enough for doing that!” Sometimes those “little things” make all the difference in the world.

We also came across the across the MCC trail crew still working hard since we met them early that morning. We expressed another round of appreciation and respect for their work and we continued on to the Crocker Cirque spur path for a re-supply of water. The refreshing water rejuvenated our spirits and we chatted about our day all the way back to the car.

The weather was threatening and it started to thunder as we changed into clean clothes and packed the car. It started to rain a little as we headed out to ME 16/27. We were thankful for finishing such a demanding hike safe, dry and delighted with our success. Hump Day was history!

We returned to Rangeley with just enough time to say our good-byes and express our appreciation for such a strong, cooperative and successful hiking partnership. There is a lot to be said when common people achieve uncommon goals through mutual respect, shared purpose and cooperative determination.

Just after Clay and I parted, the skies opened up in a torrential downpour. I met my wife for a local moose tour at 6:30 PM. The tour traveled almost all the way back to Stratton where the rain stopped long enough for everyone on the tour to watch a female moose that seemed to enjoy seeing us as much as we were thrilled to see her.

Here is the photo link for the Crockers and Mt. Redington! Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/1073739...eat=directlink

 

[Pete Hogan]

Once in a Blue Moon! The Maine Event! (Part 4)

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Saddleback Mt. and The Horn Traverse

Under crystal clear skies and 43 degrees my wife shuttled me to the ME 4 AT trailhead to begin my final Maine hiking adventure. This time I would be without my hiking partner, but I was determined to go the distance on this one alone. The forecast was excellent and my legs were rested from Friday’s zero day, so I was looking forward to an exciting day above tree line.

I crossed the highway and stopped at the first trail sign to read the troubling posts of a missing 66 year-old, female, northbound hiker. Gerry Largay (Inchworm) had been missing since July 21, 2013 and extensive searches of this section of the AT have not found a trace of her. I had followed this news at home prior to this trip and I hoped that she would be found safe by this time, but that did not happen. So I silently shared some good thoughts for Gerry and her family and headed down the trail still hopeful for a positive outcome to this heartbreaking situation.

The woods were especially quite this brisk morning and I was very aware of the remoteness and solitude of my setting. My first sense of human presence was the alluring smell of breakfast that someone was cooking near the Piazza Rock Campsite. It was also at this trail junction that the well-known Piazza Rock was located so I wanted to see what that was all about. I was not disappointed at the gigantic cantilevered rock suspended in the air. It was a site worth seeing!

The trail began a moderate climb that turned more seriously with a series of switchbacks as it crested on the western shore of idyllic Ethyl Pond. It was here that I again remembered Inchworm and offered more good wishes for her safe and timely return.

The next forty minutes brought me within sight of Mud Pond and close to a much larger Eddy Pond before a brief trail re-route ended at a dirt road. Directly across the road was the unmistakable white blaze of the AT where a moderate ascent took charge.

At a sign stating, “Please help us preserve the fragile alpine plants by staying on the trail. Thank you. M.A.T.C.”, I knew I was about to ascend to one of the finest above tree line hikes in the east. There are very few places I would rather be in beautiful weather than above tree line so my excitement began to build with each successive step higher. It was almost like my entire body chemistry was changing with increased elevation. I was getting high from being high!

Every few steps, I took a photograph so that I would be able to relive this hike long after my journey was over. I knew that I would never pass this way again and I wanted to take whatever time necessary to capture the unforgettable sights and spectacular panoramas.

The summit of Saddleback was as beautiful as the approach. A group of college students were at the summit post and I volunteered to take their picture if they would reciprocate. I stayed briefly after my photo was taken before starting the 1.6-mile continuation on the AT to the next 4000-foot peak, The Horn.

The 600-foot descent off the Saddleback ridge was steep at times, but once again, the elapsed time did not correspond to the distance perceived.

The Saddleback/Horn col was stunning with huge boulders scattered everywhere and walkways of granite bordered by all sorts of beautiful plants and grasses. It was not a place to hurry, but rather a rare section to linger and fully appreciate my surroundings.

I had to resist the upward drive to finish in order to appreciate the journey at hand. I kept reminding myself to stay in the moment and be thankful for this extraordinary day.

From the col to the summit of The Horn was another 400’ ascent. I arrived at the summit in less time than estimated and took my pack off for the first time today to have some lunch and reflect on my role in this dream. It was my first food break of the day - an inadvertent error brought about by sensory overload.

I was only on The Horn’s 4041-foot summit for twenty minutes, but I know that will sustain me forever. Two hikers arrived and we exchanged courtesy photos before I started the return trip to Saddleback.

My day was not over with yet, but I had gained more from this experience than I ever expected. It was only 1:15 PM so I had plenty of time to re-climb Saddleback and limited time to enjoy what remained of this adventure. So I slowed once again to gaze and wonder in absolute awe.

I returned to the Saddleback summit knowing that the rest of my day would be mostly downhill. The summit area was empty so I decided to stay a bit and think about all the good fortune I experienced this week.

After a short walk south to the next post, I located the spur trail from the Saddleback ridge to the ski trails for my descent. I passed by a beautiful tarn and gave thanks for another wonderful day in the mountains.

Sometimes in life you just happen to be in the right place at the right time. I was…during the week of August 19 – 24, 2013 in Rangeley, Maine. The weather was unbelievably beautiful and the mountains and hikes were some of the best I’ve ever experienced.

This all happened during the time of the third of four full moons in a season.

Once in a blue moon…indeed!

Here is the photo link for Saddleback Mt. and The Horn! Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/107373...authkey=Gv1sRgCJGq7vrLpMPExgE&feat=directlink

 

[Peakbagr]

Nice trip and photos, Pete. Very nice narrative.

Alan

 

[Pete Hogan]

Thanks Alan!
I was very prepared and extremely lucky with the weather! What awesome ridge hiking!!!

Pete

 

[SHawthy33]

Great trip report, I also was on Old Speck on the 20th and camped at Speck Pond that night under the Blue Moon. No headlamp needed, it was plenty bright around camp.

 

[marty]

Hey Pete,
that was one classy and well written Trip Report. I felt like I was there with you, having done all those peaks several times. Glad you enjoyed hiking in western Maine. I guess it would be hard not to with the weather that you had!

Good luck on your 115 finish, when the time comes. If you are looking for a hiking partner, please drop me a line. Maybe I can join you

Best regards,
Marty

 

[Pete Hogan]

SHawthy33,

Thanks for your thoughts. I just read your TR and although your hike wasn't exactly what you planned, it turned out well. The weather that entire week was really beautiful.

Pete

 

[Pete Hogan]

marty,

I sincerely appreciate your thoughtful comments. Funny you should mention, "I felt like I was there with you". In a way, you were and very much appreciated. The first person I thought of when I reached the summit clearing of Mt. Redington and again when I returned to the top of South Crocker, was you. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

After a week of such fantastic weather and successful hikes, anything else in the Rangeley/Stratton region might seem anti-climatic. It will be very difficult to replicate the amazing outcomes already achieved. So I won't even try. Each hike and mountain deserves to stand on its own merit and that approach has always offered enough adventure to keep me coming back for more. So I will return for the last of the NE 115 and then...I'll look for more. I do hope to share a trail with you someday!

Thanks again for making a difference!
Pete