Pemi Traverse via Zealand and the Bonds

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adamiata

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What a greasy horror show!
The day started bright and early with a 7am depart time from the Zealand Road. My special lady friend was gracious enough to get up with me at 4:30 am so she could help me spot my car at Lincoln Woods and drop me off up at Zealand. A young man can't really ask for more than that.

Shorty after I hit the Zealand Trail I realized I'd forgotten my trekking poles in my car, but by now it was too far late to retrieve them. I quickly resigned myself to hiking without them for my longest trek thus far, 19.5 miles with 3,700 feet of elevation gain. I found the Zealand trail to be mostly flat and easy with good footing and I made good time, reaching the hut in slightly over an hour. I feel this is a nice approach to a long day; it makes for a good warm up through some open woods and swampy areas that are beautiful in the morning light.

I paused briefly at the Zealand hut to replenish my water, munch a small snack, and snap a few pictures before pressing on. From here the trail was much rockier and began to gain some elevation. At this point the temperature began to rise and the humidity made its presence known. Sweat began to coat my arms and sting my eyes. About 40 minutes after leaving the hut I arrived at an empty Zeacliff. Though the skys were a bit on the hazy side, I enjoyed the breeze and views of Mount Carrigain in solitude while I rested for a few moments.

After leaving Zeacliff I had an uneventful trek over to Mount Zealand, where I paused to savor the moment of number 21 on my list. A few swigs of Gatorade and a handful of goldfish later and I was once again on my way. Next stop: Guyot.

Breaking out of the treeline at Guyot brought little relief from the heat as there was barely any breeze and temperatures were just as high as they had been in the valley. At this point I began to feel the first indications of a headache coming on. Having no desire to relive my experience with heat exhaustion on the Kinsmans a few weeks ago I began gulping water from my camelbak to replenish what I been sweating out. Fortunately, the Guyot tentsite and its spring were not far away and I was able to use my water filter for the first time to refill my camelbak and top off my reserve water bottles. I remember thinking how the tentsite was much steeper than the flat little clearing I had imagined. The platforms were scattered about on a steep hillside with rockpiles to keep them level. After a brief conversation with the caretaker, Cody, I was once again on my way.

For some reason rest stops of more than a few minutes seem to do more than harm than good for me. Leaving Guyot I felt like my rhythm had been interuppted and I lagged up the spur trail back to the Bondcliff trail. The walk over to West Bond and back was a bit of a struggle as I tried to find my pace again. West Bond was interesting, with clouds socking in the view to the South and mostly clear skies to the North and the ridge forming a sharp dividing line between the two. Looking down the ridge to the other peaks of West Bond I wondered if any of them were actually a bit higher From my perspective it looked possible. I thought I could detect a faint herd path leading West from where I stood, but I didn’t bother to investigate it. A bushwhack down the West Bond ridge sounds like an interesting trip I’d like to try in the future.

Back on the Bondcliff trail I met up with fellow VFTTr, Yellowdog. We’d briefly encountered each other last weekend on Vose Spur, of all places. Feeling a little re-energized, I made good time up to Bond, which seemed like a good place to stop for lunch. Sharing the summit with me was another VFTT member, Dirt. We chatted for a while and took turns identifying the peaks around us. I soon bid him farewell and made my way over the rocky trail to Bondcliff. The trail skirts the edges of some of the cliffs and I was pleased that I was able to keep my cool and venture a little closer to the edge than I normally do. My last 4,000 footer of the day, Bondcliff was my favorite. Number 24, or halfway through the 48 almost exactly a year after I bagged my first peak on the list.

I knew it was all downhill from here, so I finished my snacks and followed the trail as it quickly dropped into the scrub off the back of Bondcliff. Thinking of the folks who ran the Pemi Loop a two weeks before I decided to try my hand at a little trail running. Some of the trail sections were gravely and smooth and I was able to keep a good pace for about a mile before I decided to conserve my energy for the rest of the long walk out. The lower section of the Bondcliff trail seemed to go on forever before I reached the Wilderness trail, which in turn seemed to always have yet another quarter mile of perfectly straight trail visible ahead after each bend. Though tired, I took some satisfaction in the fact that I was still able to reel in and pass the tourists I came across.

At 4 pm, with my knees talking to me, I made my way up the stairs to the Lincoln Woods parking lot and over to my car. Turns out, I had just enough water left to wash down my last mouthful of goldfish before the drive home. In all, I drank 6 liters of water in the 9 hours I’d been walking. All in all, a pleasant day in the mountains.
 
Congratulations on reaching the half-way mark! Great trip report, it all seemed so familiar... ;) I have to go back and get those views from Zeacliff, they look fantastic even with the haze.

It is a long day and the walk out on the Wilderness Trail is a bit of a drag at the end of it but this trip offers a lot in one package.

Bob
 
Way to go Adam! This traverse is one of my favorites....I'm glad you had a nice day for this trip. Only 24 o go! :)

-MEB
 
Thanks for the replies and encouragement. The support means a lot to me.

I spent a lot of time Saturday thinking about what I'd like my last 4,000 footer to be. Right now I'm leaning towards the Tripyramids via the North Slide so that I finish with a bit of a bang.

The view from Zeacliff seems like one I'd like to go back to when the air is cold, dry, and crystal clear like in the late fall. A Twins/Zealand/Hale Fire Warden's trail loop sounds interesting...
 
Last edited:
adamiata said:
Thanks for the replies and encouragement. The support means a lot to me.

I spent a lot of time Saturday thinking about what I'd like my last 4,000 footer to be. Right now I'm leaning towards the Tripyramids via the North Slide so that I finish with a bit of a bang.

The view from Zeacliff seems like one I'd like to go back to when the air is cold, dry, and crystal clear like in the late fall. A Twins/Zealand/Hale Fire Warden's trail loop sounds interesting...
I was going to suggest that. Check out my trip report! Also, reportedly Zealand has views if the snowpack is high enough.

Great trip report! Do you have more pictures? I was going to hit the Bonds last week on my Twin/Zealand/Hale trip but I wimped out and did them on a separate trip Friday.

North Tripyramid has a teensy summit area so if you're going to have a bunch of people go it'll be on the intimate side (not much views either). I don't want to spoil your idea by any means -- just giving you a heads up. Middle Tripyramid has only a few outlooks but it's a really cool summit! Is that the 4000'er? I forget... I did all three.

-Dr. Wu
 
Dr. Wu: I'd been looking at the Hale/Twin/Zealand loop on the map for a while but your trip report was pretty much the deciding factor for me to put it on my to do list.

I doubt I'll have a large group of people for my #48 if I decide to finish on the Tripyramids, especially if I go by the slides. My family doesn't really seem interested in any strenuous hiking but I'll likely post something in the Trips/Events forum when the time comes and anyone who feels up to it will be welcome. Both North and Middle Tripyramid are 4,000 footers, though I'm more interested in the slide than the summits themselves. Everything I've read indicates they rank rather low as far as views go. I suppose its kind of representative of the whole 4,000 footer list concept; it's more about the journey than the destination, which is why this route appeals to me. I also have a nagging fear of heights and I want to have to work both mentally and physically to accomplish my goal.

I took plenty of other pictures. I just uploaded them to http://community.webshots.com/user/adamiata

I'm not sure what my next hike willl be. The Presis have my attention, or maybe a loop over Garfield and the Twins, but that will likely have to wait. I'm probably going to have to take the next two weekends off from hiking 4Ks. This weekend I'm going to have to help out with a few things around the house and perform some automotive surgery. Next weekend I'm going camping with the girlfriend at Lafayette Place and doing touristy type stuff in the area, though escorting her up Moosilauke is not out of the question.
 
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