Sewards #42-45 October 4&5 Just Like Summer!

[ADK Rick]

Subtitle: Maybe October, but it felt like "Hot Time, Summer in the Sewards"
Another Subtitle: The trip that almost wasn't

See the pictures -HERE-

Wow, I really had to shoehorn this trip in. But the weather forecast won me over and 5 am tuesday I was driving from CT to my company's Albany office to get in an hour or two of needed work before heading north. I found myself driving up a sun-speckled northway and made it to the Corey's trailhead at 12:15. 15 minutes to change out of my work duds and it was on the trail at 12:30. The first hour always seems hard, and it always seems 90% uphill. Plus, I had decided to go in ultra-lite with just my Kelty Redwing packed with the minimum gear for an overnight. This meant just my usual day trip stuff, plus a down bag, sleeping pad, walkman for the baseball playoffs, and a little more food than usual. This still proved to be just a little bit more than the Kelty could handle comfortably, however, and the pack was not its usual very comfortable self. I scared up a couple of ruffed grouse, and in general marvelled at the, well, marvelous weather that was happening all around me. Literally the perfect day. What a contrast with just last friday, when I saw snow and ice on Basin and Saddleback.

About an hour in I stopped to consult the map, as I was expecting the first leanto sometime soon. Lo and behold, for the first time in 30 years I had forgotten critical gear. The little packet I had made up special, with maps and guidebook/website excerpts were all back on the front seat of my car. This gave me pause. An aggressive overnighter, in "trailless" terrain, solo, in a place I had never been before. I wondered if this was the decision that people would point to later and say, "That's where he made the critical error in judgement." I decided to press on, heck I had memorized the map and guidance anyway and the weather was near perfect, and I would allow myself lots of "outs" as a contingency.

I made Ward Brook LT at about 1:55, it was occupied temporarily by an older gentleman and two younger folks. I foresaw a Deliverance moment coming. First question, "You all alone?". Next followed a few good-natured questions about why anyone would want to go climb a mountain in the first place (they were headed into Cold River for trout fishing). Sort of a funny conversation, but I was happy to see them head off.

Lo and behold, there were guidebook excerpts along with journal in the LT. So that made me feel a little better, though mostly I wanted a map. BTW, this leanto is top notch, extremely clean. Thanks "Jungle" whoever you are!!

I headed off at 2:00 with a slightly lighter load (dropped my bag and pad and a little food). The Seymour herd path is ridicuously easy to follow, even with fresh leaves on it. There are numerous EUCs (extremely unnecessary cairns) all along the upper reaches. You can see how wet it can get, but it was not too wet now...even when it looked wet it really wasnt...if you stepped in mud most of the time it was "dry" mud that didnt get your feet wet, if you know what I mean. I managed the whole climb and return without getting my feet wet, which is a new record for me. Usually, mud follows me like dust follows Pigpen.

Many pretty moments along Seymour Brook in the lower reaches. The upper reaches are just like advertised, many steep slabs and lots of fun scrambling. I took my time with lots of short breathers. Ran into Doc McPeak who was descending solo (the only hiker besides the three locals I saw at the LT). I didnt know it was Doc until the next day when I again saw him on Seward..he had told me he was going to be there. But I am getting ahead of myself.

Made Seymour summit at 3:55. Summit #42 for me. Basked in the golden sunlight and cool breeze, taking in all the color below me. Only disappointment was that it was quite hazy. Well, actually two disapointments, by the time I left the summit I discovered that the Red Sox were already down 5-0!

Hustled back down and made it to the lean to at 5:45. Had a quick couple of Clif bars and hit the rack around dark. It was a perfectly quiet night, only the sound of leaves falling gently around the lean to. Very warm...crazy warm...I dont believe it got below 60 all night. Alarm watch went off at 6:30, still before full light, and I was walking by 6:45 or so in the morning twilight. I peeled a layer at the cairn and headed up the Seward herd path. It is almost a mirror image of the Seymour herd path only longer. Pretty Seward Brook in the lower reaches. Steep steep steep in the upper reaches, many places tested my meager 26 inch inseam. I had been relieved to feel pretty fresh in the morning, this being my first 2-day trip of the year, but now I was beginning to feel it. The best consolation was knowing that this was the hardest work of the day. I made the Seward summit at 9:45. Some views to the north, similar to Seymour, but still hazy. You can also see Emmons and Donaldson. Took 15 minutes on the summit and then headed to Donaldson. The descent is steep but quick. You get some nice views of Seward even before the Donalson summit. My daughter thinks the rock outcropping on Seward looks like a pug dog. I am inclined to agree with her.

(continued next post)

 

[ADK Rick]

(continued from 1st post)...
There is a lookout north just before the Donaldson summit that has similar views to Seward and Seymour. I arrived at the Donaldson summit at 11:05. The true summit boulder faces east and has by far the best views of the whole range. I was looking into the sun so the the views are mostly in silouette. Nice views of the McIntyres, Marcy, Skylight, and the Santanonis, plus a nice look at Seward and Seymour.

Spent half an hour enjoying the sun and breeze, then 3 young hikers with 3 unleashed but very well behaved canines arrived, having come from Calkins Brook. They also described two other hikers they had just seen, one of them sounding suspiciously like Doc McPeak. We passed a few pleasant moments then I was off to Emmons. I dropped pack here which was quite a relief. It is 45 minutes of pretty easy walking over to Emmons summit. It looks like a long ways away from Donaldson but it goes super quick. Not much for a view. I made Emmons at 12:15. Nice look at Long Lake. I spent 15 minutes here and headed back. Took a few minutes longer as the re-climb of Donaldson is a bit steeper, plus I was getting thirsty (remember that dropped pack?). I ran into the 3 hikers again who told me it was 3 hours to the car via Calkins Brook. I gathered up my pack, executed a wardrobe change (it was really too hot for long pants and sleeves but the close nature of the trails had made these choices prudent). I left for the Calkins Brook herd path at just about 1:30. There is a little cairn marking the junction, but it is against a tree and thus invisible if you are coming from Seward. I also take issue with one report (adirondackjourney.com I think) that says the junction is "less than one minute north of the Donaldson summit" I didnt time it, but it is certainly more than 5 and probably closer to 10.

I also have a few nits to pick with the various descriptions of the Calkins Brook herd path. <<EDIT See my reply below>> Like the other herd paths in the area, it is very easy to follow. And in its lower reaches it is quite pretty and "like a walk in the park" as some have said. The upper reaches are not park like however and there is just as much blowdown as anywhere else up high in this range. Not a big deal however. My principal beef is that many descriptions have talked about "the upper reaches of Calkins Brook" and "crossing and re-crossing" the brook many times. I didnt have a map, which may be a contributing factor to my uneasiness following this path, but I can tell you that you do not in fact pick up Calkins Brook high up at all. In fact, you dont see the real Calkins Brook until the last 15 minutes of the almost 2 hour descent. Unless you call all the small streams "headwaters" of Calkins Brook. Its a half hour before you cross any water on the way down, and then you cross at least a half dozen DIFFERENT streams, all flowing from your left to right as you descend. I kept expecting the path to turn down one of them, but you just keep crossing them at right angles. In fact, the vast majority of the herd path is spent on a side slope, and I kept feeling like I was heading too far south west and not enough west. However, the path is very obvious so I was sure I wasnt incorrect. I lost the path briefly in the very lower reaches, after you finally are walking along the real Calkins Brook, but re-found it quickly and began the road march, right at the cairn clearly marking the turnoff. Looking at a map now, i can see that you follow the north side of the western arm of Donaldson, which is why you are continously on a side slope. You can hear the real Calkins brook below you to your right as you descend, but you dont actually reach it until the last 15 minutes of the descent.

The truck road is uphill for about a mile which is a killer. For the first time all year the soles of my feet hurt. However, I exhorted in the beautiful golden low angle light filtering through the colored leaves. The sun on the back of my neck was downright hot!

I was back to the car at 4:45. Oh yeah, I ran in to Doc McPeak just before leaving the Donaldson summit...he had predicted 9 hours for this day's walking when I had seen him on Seymour the day before, and if you factor in my peak time of about an hour he was dead on. Nice guy, Hi Doc!

Long ride back to CT, but I now only have 1 more to go! I fear that I might be a 45-er all winter though, what with the weather and the fact that I might have played too much hooky from home responsiblities lately. 6 new peaks in 5 days is definitely a record for me!

Still, hoping for Haystack next friday. Would love a partner or three, finishing up your 46 solo would be sort of a bummer.

ADK Rick

 

[Pete_Hickey]

(I also have a few nits to pick with the various descriptions of the Calkins Brook herd path.

I'm curious where you heard those descriptions. The path has been pretty much as you describe it since around '92. It follows Calkins Brook, but is always a good distance from it.

.... finishing up your 46 solo would be sort of a bummer.

Matter of personal taste. I, for one, prefer solo finishes. I prefer doing tough things solo. When I finished my winter 46, I even told everyone that I would be finishing a week later than I actually did.

It's what you like. I do enjoy being with others when they fniish.

 

[ADK Rick]

I'm curious where you heard those descriptions. The path has been pretty much as you describe it since around '92. It follows Calkins Brook, but is always a good distance from it.

I think it was a combination of the only info I had in my hand (a 2004 printout from adirondackjourney.com) and me mis-remembering some stuff. The old printout has only a few lines about Calkins Brook but it says "crosses and re-crosses". Now that I go to the site, I see that this description has been removed and a much more accurate one is there. I also *thought* I remembered similar descriptions from other places, but then maybe not. My bad. The moral of the story is, dont forget your maps and guidance materials in the car, and then maybe your imagination wont go a little crazy on you! BTW, I thought of your avatar a few times when I saw axe marks in the downed trees along the Calkins Brook herd path!

Matter of personal taste. I, for one, prefer solo finishes. I prefer doing tough things solo. When I finished my winter 46, I even told everyone that I would be finishing a week later than I actually did.

It's what you like. I do enjoy being with others when they fniish.

So I'll see you next friday? I have done almost all my hiking solo lately. I like it, but I also like the variety of having a partner. On Basin and Saddleback last week I met a nice woman and it made the time go by much faster to talk a bit.

ADK Rick

 

[Doc McPeak]

Hi ADK Rick!

Glad everything went smoothly, and nice to chat on Seymour. We met those three dogs half a dozen times before the owners finally caught up to us at the high junction. Well behaved though. Almost too hot on the ridge that day!

My friend also hit #45 that day ... of his 20th round! Great tales of fun stuff like many trips up and down the Emmons slide, Seymour to Seward runs, Seymour to Donaldson, the old trails, and my favorite, his bushwhack out to the "pug" or "bulldog" (or my description: the frowning Kabuki) rock so he could try to signal his parents in Tupper lake with a mirror! That is a great cliff in the morning light.

Good luck on your finish! And fwiw, I saved Marcy for last and was treated with a fall day like we had, and almost an hour and a half of solitude on that usually busy summit. I'm sure you'll savor it however it unfolds! And very cute ride ...

 

[Mark Schaefer]

Nice trail report Rick. A pug, well maybe. But pugs are cute and there is nothing cute about Seward.

Another solo hiker here. I finished my Catskill 3500 and Adk 46-er on solo trailless and herd-path hikes. It is not so bad.

So is it pronounced See- wards or Soo- wards?

It is pronounced Soo- wards (and no, that is not another Deliverance reference). It is named for William Henry Seward, a NY governor, later senator, and Secretary of State under both Lincoln and Andrew Johnson. In 1867 he organized the purchase of Alaska from Russia (Seward's Folly fame, though no one is laughing anymore).

 

[Doc McPeak]

I'll add one more tidbit to Mark's excellent historical bio on Seward, which I actually learned from my hiking partner while sitting on the summit of Seward the other day. The night Lincoln was shot two other assassins, in league, tried to kill the Vice President and Seward (Sec. of State). The man going after the VP chickened out, but Seward was stabbed (critically, but he survived) by his assassin who ran from Seward's house screaming: "I'm insane, I'm insane."

Imagine how hot the Cold War would have gotten if Russia owned all of Alaska and was sitting up there with a stroghold of nukes. And Denali would have ended up being called Mount Lenin...

 

[Pete_Hickey]

The moral of the story is, dont forget your maps and guidance materials in the car, and then maybe your imagination wont go a little crazy on you!

The other moral is, "Take what you read on the net with a grain of salt. Unless you know something about the author." The net is FILLED with WRONG information.

So I'll see you next friday?

Like Cantdog said, timing is bad. A lot of things going on that weekend. I've been committed.