Tickling the waters of Maine

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spider solo

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Joined
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Location
NH
Sept-14-20,07
7 Days of Paddling the waters of Mooselookmeguntic and the Richardsons
Lakes . These are the lakes near the NH Maine border part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (map 8).

Upper and Lower Richardson 3 nights....
Day 1. I opted to put in at Upper Richardson at Mill Brook Boat Access.
Thinking the wind would be to my back I was somewhat surprised to find the wind coming directly up the lake from the south big time.
The lake looked like a cauldron of whitecaps!! I figured what willl be will be and unloaded and packed up my boat (kayak).
All set and ready to go by 2ish...I waited and waited. They say patience is what it is all about. I waited some more both working up my nerve and wondering how the boat would handle all loaded down. By 4:30 I convinced myself the wind was moderating and knowing I couldn't even push off without getting spit back onto the shore..I waded out into the lake floated my boat out and around the dock and found by hugging the dock and using it to shield me from the waves I could get in and "skirted up" with minimal amount of water.
It was a wild ride but only for a 1/2hr or so before the wind moderated and I spent the 1st night near BIG BEAVER ISLAND. (My recently self repaired stove won't lite and it's a cold dinner for night..silly fellow.)

The 2nd day: The southern wind had meant rain..rain meant flat water so I headed on down the lake towards a section called "The Narrows"
Well , I learned in a hurry.. Don't hug the Shoreline !! esp. on the west side because it is rocky ! Some nasty sleepers or sinkers just below the surface. I hung up on one.at least it was flat ...shook off it and within the hr I see... to late..the sharp point of a submerged rock. I'm on it with a long SCRATCHHHH
slow motion noise from front to back. The rest of the trip was a constant reminder to stay off shore . It's not the kiind of lake to hug the shore and nose about nooks and crannies !!
Looking for camp that night in "the Narrows" was the only time I had the "oh my God I'm gonna die" moment when I was half way across and a speed boat came screaming down on me around a somewhat blind corner.

No problem. The fellow killed his engine, stopped on a dime, and pulled into the campsite he was heading for... the one just before my location.
Heart in hand I breathe a sigh of relief and call it a day. My campsite choice was between the one with the human footprints and dog prints..or... the one with the moose prints...the one with the moose gets my vote.

The 3rd day finds me looking for Middle Dam. I had read about the area . (at least one member here has done the portage there along Rapid River and over to Umbagog). It is steeped in history and the book "We Took To The Woods" by Louise Dickerson Rich gives a first hand glimpse of life there years ago.
I blew right by it...never made land fall. I didn't have a good idea of the scale of the map in relation to how far or at what speed I was travelling. It seemed way to close to where I had camped. I'm thinking it is something I'll see in half a day..not in half an hour. Off to the side I see what looks to be a huge barn with nice grounds and farm house nearby. Duh that is the dam !!
I had vague thoughts that it might be so but the lake has opened up the wind is behind me and I'm making good time. NO I don't want to be hugging the shore. Not me.
Ok so I missed it. Zipping down the lake is great fun till the far shore starts getting closer and the lake curves putting you broadside to the waves. Pushing you where? Well the hard shoreline, rocky shoreline where a fellow does not want to be. Well not so bad and with a bit of effort I find myself down the southern end of the lake where some nice islands are. Very nice with a few camps and calmer water. The lake on this end has a more intimate feel to it or a more cozy feel to it might be another way to say it.
Wanting to do the circumference of the lakes I enjoy a quick lunch and start up the east shore of the lake.

Pine Island is beautiful !! Sandy as can be with a well established campsite
site and excellent wildlfe.
Thought I would be going further but was fading fast when I noticed how pretty it was. As I headed over to scout it out I see a man and woman coming around from the other side of the island. Turns out they had just landed there in a small airplane using the soft sand as a runway. I didn't even know that was possible.
We had a nice visit and everythng as they were out checking out lakes and places where they might buy a camp. They had thought of landing on Umbagog. Very nice people but it left me pondering the whole subject of what it's like to spend days to get somewhere yet for others it only takes minutes. It's an unresolved issue for me so I'll let other (readers) to ponder it for themselves.
The island was great I spread my still wet gear out. Beautiful sunshine the Chirds were burping..life was good...Moose !! on one of the trips down to the boat near dusk. I Look in the distance and see two Moose one female and one male. Nice big male with a nice full rack. I know what he wants. He wants Mrs Moose
Well, I know what season it's getting to be... . and if antlers were refered to as horns then this would be one (you guessed) horny guy!
Well, Mrs Moose remains to be seen whereas Mr moose is soon gone...I don't think things worked out quite as he had hoped they might.
The morning finds me still there in the tent. "Thunk"... is the sound I keep hearing "ThunK," thunk" again... can't quite figure it out yet I've heard this sound before... thunk.
As I'm loading up the kayak "thunkity, thunkity, thunk" all around me. Pine Cones raining from the trees. I remember now... Red Squirels chewing the cones from the tree to fall on the ground and be gathered up shortly.
but here's one I don't know ...About 20 or so mergansers come splashing around the water like they are 1/2 flying or rowing themselves about on the surface, every which way, but never taking off. I figure some type of hunting food gathering technique ?















will add more later
 
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Well, this sounds like a great trip! The Richardsons totally rock. I agree with you on Pine Island and am happy you saw moose. It is definitely a hotspot for them. We took a stroll down there last night from the South Arm Road, but didn't see any this time.

Looking forward about the rest of your trip on Mooselook.

Regards,
Marty
 
Mooselookmeguntic

3 more nights for Mooselook....
The portage was way shorter than I thought it would be which was great ! The water was mirror smooth,flat and though it might sound ideal it was for me hard to keep my perspective on what was up down and all around. Hard to tell if something was a mile away or a couple hundred yards. I think you loose your line of horizon. I found myself trying to dodge something at the last moment only to realize it was a cloud reflected and not a rock...of which there were many.
Mink ...he came swimming along as I was unloading. Didn't know if it was going to a muskrat who was rippling the water as it approached, but up onto the rocks pops a Mink completely unaware of my presence. Wet as a dishrag when he got out but with a shake or two..Viola...instant "Daper Dude". His beautiful fur all fluffed out. (On the other hand he just looked like a weasel but I didn't want to break the news to him.)
High octane, high energy animal he was hunting the rocks with enthusasim for quite some time before he caught sight of me ...then he was all hide and seek trying to watch me without beeing seen.
I was curious why the portage was unmarked but as it turned out I wasn't on the offical portage, but a shortcut that a fellow later told me was called a loging haul out... from years ago or something along those lines.
I was kind of in the front yard of his camp. Once again a real nice fellow who was very curious and told me to stay as long as I wanted and asked if I wanted anything. I had rehearsed what I would say if I was asked...drinking water and a pencil (I was desprate to write some kind of a journal).
Turns out I asked only for some water as I didn't want to pester him for the pencil. He was older than me ...and already some say I'm older than dirt as it is.
Recieving direction from the fellow I paddled over to the real portage and dam and make a mental note that it looks just like a big barn with nice buildings around it.
Heading up the west side of the lake I check out various campsites and landings ....passing by yet another mink who just kind of hides it's head as I go by, thinking I won't see the rest of him/her .Doing a good job of blending in to the rock it was on.
I like Islands and found a fine one to spend the night on.

Next day, my 2nd on the lake...
This fine morning finds me touring around Farrington, Shelter and the Griffin Islands. My thought was to include the northern part of Mooselook... which is called CUPSUPTIC LAKE, which near as I can tell, is the section north of Oquossoc carry road. However as I travell north the road noise increases from route 16 & 17 etc...and though not overwhelming it is not quite what I'm looking for.
Landing on Stony Batter Point to stretch my legs I make a decison to turn tail and head for the South end of the lake.

Just thought I would take a moment here to mention that during the heyday of logging transport by water, dams were built ...sometimes even reversing the flow of the water and merging bodies of water like Cupsuptic Lake and the Moosie... same with the Upper and Lower Richardsons . So whle you are looking at on expanse of water it might contain several different names of lakes that were in essence merged or "swallowed" by each other. At Least that is my understanding of how things came to be.

Several hours after making my decision to head south I'm scouting the SW shore looking for "Authorized Campsites" (as I know there are 2 of them on this shore.) It's just about 2:15 and here is yet another MOOSE !!
Broad daylight, rocky shore, not a care in the world. This one obviously had not read the latest edition of "Proper Moose Behavior". After spending quite some time doing a perfect Centerfold Pose of what a Moose looks like ...with one leg poised as if mimicking a pointer type dog ...it wanders off.
Within the hour I find my perfect campsite...muddy..rocky..shallow water, a total pain to load and off load gear. Ahh..perfect because it is loaded with footprints...Wildlife footprints. Big fresh Mooseprints.... Delicate little Mink prints...tiny little tender prints of solitary sand pipers. Excellent stuff!!

I spend the next two nights here, touring the Southern expanses of the lake ..listening to loons yipping to each other like pups ( I never knew they did that).
Waddling and whispering were the 7 ducks who repeatedly visited me. Coming and whispering amongst themselves about all the food I should have for them, I guess.
Walking along the shore in the morning I see water being "tickled" by some unseen creature...maybe a fox or a mink? Yet as I finally peek behind the boulder that was blocking my view...sure enough there were my 7 little ducks having a feeding frenzy of some tubular delight they were always after.

"Wonder what they were hiding from", I ask myself as I wander along the shore and around the next cove watching my feet... contemplating the universe.
Somethings up...perhaps I should look around...
I raise my head in time to watch a Bald Eagle fly low from his perch beside me to the other end of the cove.


That night I hear the water splashing as I lie in my tent. Unable to resist I slowly unzip the tent and shine my light..nothing ...more noise but nothing.
Then, as if in slow motion, two orbs of light shine.

Hovering about 7 feet off the ground... 1st one way then the other ..up then down... gone and back again...
Ahh...I clear the cobwebs from my thoughts.
It's a moose.
Nice stuff indeed !
 
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Great report! Beautiful imagery. Paddled the Richardsons last year, and Mooselookmeguntic earlier this month. Watched one of the best sunsets of my life from the shore of Griffin Island. I think I saw the same seven ducks (I thought they were cormorants) early one morning hanging aroung our camsite, "Ramble". Never saw a single moose, but was lucky enough so spot an eagle.We checked out just about every campsite on the lake. Hey, what did you think of the privies? I must say that I was quite impressed. One of them smelled just like a pina colada! The folks at Phillips Preserve must have a connection with someone at the car freshener factory. Anyway, Thanks for the wonderful story. Wish I was there.
Kath

P.S. Did you happen to spot something hanging from a tree at the Chapel campsite? (Chapel is the campsite that has an old iron headboard built into the fire ring and the remains of a big brick wood-fired oven on the site.) I posted a thread, asking for help in identifying it in the General Backcountry Forum, with a photo. It's been bugging me ever since.
 
Ahhh, spider solo thanks for the excellent report. When I'm ready to do more paddle exploring (which I know is in my future) I hope to remember this report and be inspired. I enjoyed your descriptive style....especially the burping chirds....that one's gonna stick in my brain and I like it!!!
 
Thankyou, I was a bit afraid nobody would read it as it is a tad long...(probably happens after you've been out there for a few days.)

The Stephen Phillips Preserve was quite nice. I stopped at their headquartes, which was closed, and was impressed with how clean and low key the place was. I wandered around Students Island a little bit (and of course used one their "heavenly hoppers") Don't think I ever smelled so good.

A few years back while hiking the A.T. section through the Lakes Region (part of the "100 mile wilderness") I remembered how excited I would get if the days hike included a little peek of the lakes or a short section along side of it.
So in part this was a chance to explore a bit of life "off trail".

but for now it's the sounds of happy chirds a bubblin and a burpin....

(I often paddle around Great Bay if that is of interest to any folks, they have done a good job of protecting some nice areas of it.)
 
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